Ignorant non-metalworker here: How is such a thing different from blue-steel honyaki's, which do exist? Or is it more a matter of practical benefit, q.v. blue-super honyaki when non-honyaki'd blue super offers mostly the same value without the failures?
what would your dream knife be like?
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Kippington
A small green parrot
The simple answer is that different steels have different compositions, which result in different quenching characteristics.
52100 has a splotchy, undefined hamon (in my opinion).
user 16756
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my dream knife is a Kato 240 workhorse except it comes with a nice burnt chestnut handle already installed and the guy makes enough of them that everyone can have them at a reasonable price without having to watch out for Maxim's emails, and I could get a second one without having to pay the arbitrage tax.
Sometime dreams do become reality ... can't thank both the designer (Larrin) & maker (Devin) enough … pure perfection Gentlemen!
First two are Devin's pic's ... last is mine on a hi-soft / only received the blade today ... will post better when I have some time to do it right / first I want to take some big things and make a bunch of little things for a while ...
TF doesn't have a profile. He has all the profiles. He has binders full of profiles.
Kochi V2 steel and grind, HVB profile and weight, Yoshi CKC octo burnt Chestnut handle. Or Will Newham western.
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What do you like about the v2 steel? haven't tried it.
It's a fairly simple carbon with just enough alloy to hold up a bit better, holds an edge a bit longer. I also like most blue steels for the same reason. White can get lost. Esp white 3.
After doing the circuit of exotic steels, I find what matters to me is how easily I can put a good edge on, and how easy it is to put different TYPES of edges on quickly for different jobs. I want 400-2k for meat, depending on the cut of meat. More fat and tendons means coarser. For veg I want 2-8k depending on my mood. Most well made simple carbons will do this well. Things like "mystery PM" often have ONE finish they perform well with, and all others are just naff. I'd rather be fussy about the steel so I don't have to be fussy about the stones.
After doing the circuit of exotic steels, I find what matters to me is how easily I can put a good edge on, and how easy it is to put different TYPES of edges on quickly for different jobs. I want 400-2k for meat, depending on the cut of meat. More fat and tendons means coarser. For veg I want 2-8k depending on my mood. Most well made simple carbons will do this well. Things like "mystery PM" often have ONE finish they perform well with, and all others are just naff. I'd rather be fussy about the steel so I don't have to be fussy about the stones.
shinyunggyun
Banned
Is there a knife out there with a TF Denka level heat treated aogami super that has the grind and profile of a kochi migaki?
Get a TF and send it to Shihan for a regrind.
Jovidah
I'll make you a sponsor offer you can't refuse...
I'm slowly getting a feel for my preferences. It has to be a monosteel... and something at least a tiny bit less reactive like 1.2519. Could also be stainless or semi stainless, but ease of sharpening is a higher priority than maximum edger retention or hardness for me.
Profile... basically a KS but at 50mm to get more longevity out of it, similar kind of tip, but a fatter neck. Not 100% sure about handle though (wa vs western), and though I thought I finally settled on 240 for length I'm having some second thoughts after experimenting more with draw cuts lately.
Profile... basically a KS but at 50mm to get more longevity out of it, similar kind of tip, but a fatter neck. Not 100% sure about handle though (wa vs western), and though I thought I finally settled on 240 for length I'm having some second thoughts after experimenting more with draw cuts lately.
Feel like a Kippington Workpony or laser would fit nicely, his 52100 is pretty good, low reactive, amazing tip but more substantial neck.
Jason183
Senior Member
Devin Thomas Magnacut, next new big thing
Dream knife?
I’d go for something modeled after this monster. Except in the 70-80mm height range, and maybe a bit thicker at the spine since the height will give you more play room with the grind and a bit more distal taper. Iron cladding, either the steel he normally uses for the core or bulat. Synthetic ivory handle and saya, maybe engraved.
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I’d sell my entire collection for that, and I’ve never used a knife over 250mm.
I’d go for something modeled after this monster. Except in the 70-80mm height range, and maybe a bit thicker at the spine since the height will give you more play room with the grind and a bit more distal taper. Iron cladding, either the steel he normally uses for the core or bulat. Synthetic ivory handle and saya, maybe engraved.
()
I’d sell my entire collection for that, and I’ve never used a knife over 250mm.
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Once you go Catche, you never go back
Acidfly
Active Member
240mm Honyaki in aogami super.
Magnacut CCK 1302 with slightly thicker spine at the front, Magnacut or ApexUltra Sabatier with Kippington grind and taper.
Xunzi
Well-Known Member
bahamaroot
Idiot Savant
One that could get my wife to cook once in awhile....
BillHanna
Gotta get ready for ARM
Hello, Brother.
