- Jan 11, 2018
- Reaction score
Just wanted to know if this steel is regarded as good by the owners or if one should avoid?
I think/would guess its impossible to forge without it severely cracking or some kind of carbon segregation/banding. at the very least. also most forgers dont like SS at all since its "impossible to forge" and I guess this one is one level above that. But personally i think there is no real need to "forge" steel since the mill does it way, way better than the smith ever will be able to do. in a very controlled enviroment.Edge lasts forever! Have to spend a little time and have patience when sharpening. Most or all is pre lam, not sure if anyone is true hand forging.
I think r2 and srs15 is "hard to sharpen" comparatively that is. Its slow no matter what stone. compared to like vg10/aus-8/blue2 etc etc. not hard to get a good edge on though. its just slower.It is an excellent steel for kitchen knives. Can take an hold a very refined edge, isn’t as hard to sharpen as some maintain, certainly easier than a lot of the over the top stuff in the pocket knife community, and as long as you know you need to treat it like a steel hardened to 65+ (TF white, Watanabe blue) it is perfectly suitable to kitchen tasks.
It’s going to hold its edge far longer than any of the hitachi carbons, and quite a bit longer than something like r2. That isn’t necessarily the most important thing. Most of my knives are white/blue/ginsan. But zdp has some excellent attributes.
I would guess that some knives are chippy, even for enthusiasts. We try to push everything to the limit.Pretty OK in a home kitchen so far. I rotate thru knives, occasionally resharpening. The two I rarely resharpen are the TF Denka and Sukenari ZDP. I choose softer knives for hard and crusty materials. Match the pen to the paper.
In fact I don't always get the reaction "it chips on hard food". We're knife nuts here and have options. Maybe not a great rec for a beginner, but ...?
PITA sharpening I get though.
I have a HAP40 on order. Any qualitative differences between it and ZDP? I'm sure I'll learn soon, but I'm always curious what to look forHave ZDP, Hap40 and YXR7. Love them all. Hold great edges. I don't find them hard to sharpen. So for me ZDP is great in my home kitchen.
I have sharpened another very hard PM stainless steel, and I resorted to a new, more aggressive stone because my older, softer stone cut so slowly. Also didn't feel like I got an edge that lasted as long as it should have given the hardness of the steel. I found that diamond was the best cutter (but somewhat unpleasant to use), followed by a stone designed for hard steel. Just seems to take a lot of patience and fussy, controlled hand motions. One of My favorite steels to sharpen (Murata blue 1) seems to take an edge whenever you wave it over a stone. Harder PM seems to take diligence, focus, mental exertion and very controlled motions. Hard to explain without handing a knife back and forth between us.When people mention pain in the ass sharpening, what exactly makes it difficult?
What's the double sharpening technique? I'm trying to learn my way around PM steelsI have SRS15, R2 and HAP40. All are fairly easy to raise a burr on. I think that the main issue in sharpening these steels is deburring. I find SRS15 easier to deburr than R2, which is easier than HAP40, at least in the heat treatments that I have sharpened. Stropping on diamonds and Dave Martell's double sharpening technique seem to help here.
Geesh, srs-15 is so easy to deburr you can hardly call it deburring, and r2 is not much worse.I have SRS15, R2 and HAP40. All are fairly easy to raise a burr on. I think that the main issue in sharpening these steels is deburring. I find SRS15 easier to deburr than R2, which is easier than HAP40, at least in the heat treatments that I have sharpened. Stropping on diamonds and Dave Martell's double sharpening technique seem to help here.