Which utility knife/petty

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teeth

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2020
Messages
15
Reaction score
2
Location
NYC
LOCATION
What country are you in?

United States


KNIFE TYPE
What type of knife are you interested in (e.g., chefs knife, slicer, boning knife, utility knife, bread knife, paring knife, cleaver)?

Utility/Petty.

Are you right or left handed?

Right handed.


Are you interested in a Western handle (e.g., classic Wusthof handle) or Japanese handle?

I'm open to either, although I haven't used many Japanese knives and my concerns are two fold: I have a large-ish hand with long fingers and I worry a smaller japanese style handle may be uncomfortable, and with a smaller knife like a petty I'm concerned about knuckle clearance.


What length of knife (blade) are you interested in (in inches or millimeters)?

5-6 in.

Do you require a stainless knife? (Yes or no)

No. I'm interested in trying out a higher carbon knife, but I'm reticent to get a very hard knife as I'm very inexperienced with sharpening.

What is your absolute maximum budget for your knife?

Ideally around 100 USD, could spring for 120 or so.

KNIFE USE
Do you primarily intend to use this knife at home or a professional environment?

At home. Usually cook 4-5 nights a week.

What are the main tasks you primarily intend to use the knife for (e.g., slicing vegetables, chopping vegetables, mincing vegetables, slicing meats, cutting down poultry, breaking poultry bones, filleting fish, trimming meats, etc.)? (Please identify as many tasks as you would like.)

Slicing/chopping vegetables, breaking down poultry (but not for going through bone, I have cleavers for that).


What knife, if any, are you replacing?

N/A

Do you have a particular grip that you primarily use? (Please click on this LINK for the common types of grips.)

Mostly hammer, but I'll pinch for detail work, and I intend to use this knife mostly for detail so I would like a knife that's comfortable for both grips, but would prioritize pinch.

What cutting motions do you primarily use? (Please click on this LINK for types of cutting motions and identify the two or three most common cutting motions, in order of most used to least used.)

I used to only rock but I'm getting into flatter blades and forcing myself to push cut/chop.


What improvements do you want from your current knife? If you are not replacing a knife, please identify as many characteristics identified below in parentheses that you would like this knife to have.)

Better aesthetics: I'd like to avoid any fancy finishes, don't want to mess them up sharpening. Stain/scratch resistance aren't necessary as I'll be teaching myself sharpening on it. A nice natural color wood handle would be a plus but not necessary.

Comfort: I primarily cook with a chinese cleaver, so I'm looking to compliment that with a light, nimble blade that's comfortable on and off board.

Ease of Use: I'd like a thin blade for delicate tip work and smooth slicing/push cutting. I'm looking for a balance in something that's relatively easy to sharpen but doesn't sacrifice too much hardness. Definitely not averse to babying a knife in terms of reactivity and general care.

Edge Retention: Not looking for superb edge retention as I'm trying to learn sharpening. Don't want to do it every week, but don't want it to last 3 or 4 months either.

KNIFE MAINTENANCE
Do you use a bamboo, wood, rubber, or synthetic cutting board? (Yes or no.)

Yes, wood and hard plastic.

Do you sharpen your own knives? (Yes or no.)

Yes, although I'm quite new at it.

Are you interested in purchasing sharpening products for your knives? (Yes or no.)

Yes, I only have a bare bones set up at the moment.

SPECIAL REQUESTS/COMMENTS

I've been doing my research primarily by referencing knifemerchant.com and Korin.

Glestain K series 5.5 in.
https://www.knifemerchant.com/product.asp?productID=3505
Mac professional series 4.9 in.
https://www.knifemerchant.com/product.asp?productID=2910
Masamato Sohonten Molybdenum 5.9 in.
https://www.korin.com/HMA-MOPE-150
Was also looking at Misono, but not sure which "grade" would be appropriate for me. Also, the above are all stainless but I'm not averse to carbon.
 
You should ask for your post to be moved to the general kitchen knife section. You will get more replies. One of the mods can do it.
 
The issue you’re going to have is that narrower (shorter heel height) blades are better for hand work and butchering whereas wider/taller blades are better for board work especially if you care about not banging your knuckles. The top one here (Munetoshi) is great for board work and pretty much a short length gyuto; the bottom one (Murata) is great for butchering and detail work but rather narrow for veg prep on a board. You can adjust your grip and boards to make it easier; it sounds like what might work for you is a very pointy blade or even a k-tip petty. 150mm is the length I tend to like, and I knew a guy who used a Mac petty as his primary knife so that could work for you. Also check out JCK Blue Clouds k-tip.

image.jpg
 
The issue you’re going to have is that narrower (shorter heel height) blades are better for hand work and butchering whereas wider/taller blades are better for board work especially if you care about not banging your knuckles. The top one here (Munetoshi) is great for board work and pretty much a short length gyuto; the bottom one (Murata) is great for butchering and detail work but rather narrow for veg prep on a board. You can adjust your grip and boards to make it easier; it sounds like what might work for you is a very pointy blade or even a k-tip petty. 150mm is the length I tend to like, and I knew a guy who used a Mac petty as his primary knife so that could work for you. Also check out JCK Blue Clouds k-tip.

View attachment 103770
I have the same Munetoshi, and use a Misono Swedish for more detail work. I also have a Robert Herder paring knife which I use a lot. @GorillaGrunt how do you treat your handles? Yours look darker than mine.
0789F2A4-0DA9-49BE-95C2-4BC7DB0792EB.jpeg
 
I have the same Munetoshi, and use a Misono Swedish for more detail work. I also have a Robert Herder paring knife which I use a lot. @GorillaGrunt how do you treat your handles? Yours look darker than mine.
View attachment 103778

I was also considering a Misono--how's the ease of sharpening on the swedish steel line? I was thinking the UX-10s might be a little too difficult for me as a sharpening noob, but also don't want to go too soft.
 

Oh, I do like how these Zanmai's look, and that Corian handle is pretty. I also like how its more of a western style handle that I'm more comfortable with, even if its a little unrealistic to expect any good amount of knuckle clearance in a petty as GorillaGrunt pointed out above.

I think 57-58 HRC is the sweet spot for me at the moment as well, although I'm unfamiliar with 8A steel--is that specific to Zanmai?
 
The issue you’re going to have is that narrower (shorter heel height) blades are better for hand work and butchering whereas wider/taller blades are better for board work especially if you care about not banging your knuckles. The top one here (Munetoshi) is great for board work and pretty much a short length gyuto; the bottom one (Murata) is great for butchering and detail work but rather narrow for veg prep on a board. You can adjust your grip and boards to make it easier; it sounds like what might work for you is a very pointy blade or even a k-tip petty. 150mm is the length I tend to like, and I knew a guy who used a Mac petty as his primary knife so that could work for you. Also check out JCK Blue Clouds k-tip.

View attachment 103770

I think you're totally right that I want a very pointy or even k-tip petty for off board butchery/detail work, and good looks on those JCK blue clouds. I initially was looking into honesuki but decided I should get a petty for a little more versatility, so if I have to go one way or the other I would lean towards something better at butchery and sacrifice the knuckle clearance, etc. for veg prep.

I guess this just means I have to get a Nakiri as well for when I want to do some veg prep but don't feel like pulling out my big chinese slicer, and I'm definitely not going to complain about a good excuse to get another knife :)
 
I think 57-58 HRC is the sweet spot for me at the moment as well, although I'm unfamiliar with 8A steel--is that specific to Zanmai?
"8A" is AUS-8, which is the most common steel used in generic Japanese stainless ("inox") knives.
 
Can anyone confirm that the Mac Pros have a 50/50 bevel? I'm having a hard time finding the exact information. I read something on the website that both sides have a 15 degree angle, so I'm assuming that's the case. I'm hesitant to get anything 70/30 when I'm so new at sharpening, even thought the misonos/masamotos appeal to me.
 
4320B25F-D9D5-485D-9C40-A5C8CE725AAD.jpeg
I see you're also looking into a honesuki. See the attached pic for size comparisons versus the Munetoshi 165, Misono Swedish 150, and the Robert Herder paring. By the way, I also use a Chinese cleaver as (one of) my main knives. Mine is a Sugimoto carbon in 195x95.

The honesuki is a specialist knife and only worth it if you break down/debone chickens regularly. A more butchering-style option is the Munetoshi butcher as seen here: Munetoshi Kurouchi 170mm Wa Butcher

By the way the Misono carbon is pretty easy to sharpen.
 
Thanks for the advice, everyone.

I ended up getting the Minamoto Nashiji Blue #2 petty
https://www.**************.com/minabl2pe13.html
Kinda came out of left field but I think it has the best balance of the things I was looking for in addition to having an even bevel. I decided I'm just not good enough at sharpening to spend any amount of money on an asymmetrical bevel knife at the moment. Think I'll get a a cheapo 70/30 knife and get some practice in.
 
View attachment 103979I see you're also looking into a honesuki. See the attached pic for size comparisons versus the Munetoshi 165, Misono Swedish 150, and the Robert Herder paring. By the way, I also use a Chinese cleaver as (one of) my main knives. Mine is a Sugimoto carbon in 195x95.

The honesuki is a specialist knife and only worth it if you break down/debone chickens regularly. A more butchering-style option is the Munetoshi butcher as seen here: Munetoshi Kurouchi 170mm Wa Butcher

By the way the Misono carbon is pretty easy to sharpen.
After seeing this photo, I'm buying a Misono 150.
 
Solid choice. (for a carbon :cool: )

Suggest that you might be too wrapped up in the 50/50, 70/30 thing. It's only in the extrems, 90/10, 100/0 that it makes a discernable difference. You would be hard pressed to tell the difference in use or sharpening.
 
Solid choice. (for a carbon :cool: )

Suggest that you might be too wrapped up in the 50/50, 70/30 thing. It's only in the extrems, 90/10, 100/0 that it makes a discernable difference. You would be hard pressed to tell the difference in use or sharpening.

Reassuring to hear its a good choice. I kinda went down the rabbit hole and freaked myself out that I may have been taken. I don't want to drag up any drama but I noticed from this thread that cktg links were "censored" so I did a little searching on the forum and found some strong opinions on the quality of knives through cktg. Stuff saying that its better to stick to the better known brands through them as the lesser known brands can be lemons and well, I haven't really seen Minamoto anywhere. But not a big deal either way. This is, in fact, my first foray into jknives so I don't need anything super top of the line and if its super messed up, like an uneven spine, I can just return it.

Good to know, as well, that I might be getting in my head about the 70/30 thing. I was just watching some videos about using different angles to sharpen them, and for reference my current goal with learning sharpening is to sharpen without leaving little scratches in the face of the blade, lol.
 
Scratches are part of the program as you develop proficiency. As you get better, you'll learn how to take them out and eventually how not to leave them at all (at least not often)
 

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