I've used most of the usual suspects over the years (plastic, edge grain maple, Epicurean, Hinoki, Hi-Soft, end grain cherry, and I recently acquired a brown PE Hasagawa). I skipped over bamboo because it is notorious for dulling tools whether you're cutting culms in the field or working with it in a woodshop. My take is that they all have their pros and cons but that for edge longevity Hi-Soft and Hasegawa are hard to beat. That may be true of the Asahi and Sani-Tuff boards as well but I haven't used those. I used to be able to find some plastic boards that were on the softer side, you could get them to yield to a fingernail edge with moderate pressure, but I haven't found any that soft for years. I still keep a couple plastic boards around but only for abusive uses like serrated knives. For good Japanese knives I think you pick your trade offs among Hasegawa, Hi-Soft and equivalents, Hinoki or Aomari Hibari, and not too hard end grain (I prefer cherry). Plastic and Epicurean/San Jamar Tuff-Cut are, IMO, well below any of these but tolerable for limited uses. Bamboo, acrylic, glass, metal, and stone boards I would avoid like the plague.