Since jessf would not let it go I have decided to start a thread along similar lines as he did. The difference being that I seem unable to first finish one project before jumping to another, so I will be posting progress on 3 different projects in parallel. Let's see how that will work.
I am working on both kitchen and outdoor knives, but will only post the kitchen knives here, to stay in line with the forum
So - the projects - overview:
#3
- 165mm tall petty (or petit gyuto) in O1 steel
- made entirely with non powered tools (not something I want to brag about, just state of matters in my workshop)
#5
- 240mm gyuto, D2 steel, 3.3mm stock
- ground by hand, but then reworked on a grinder
#7
- 8 pieces or 180mm petty in O1 steel, 2.2mm stock
- the main point here is to learn bevel grinding with the grinder - I figured that trying to make the same knife will make it easier to learn rather than using different blade shape with every knife. I have no idea whether any of these will be any good.
General info:
- I am not doing HT - I am sending blades out to pros (carbon blades to Achim Wirtz, stainless to Juergen Schanz)
- I have a very small shop and started in March this year
- I have recently got a 1x30" belt grinder and angle grinder - both really help to speed up things. I am just starting to learn to use the belt grinder, the angle grinder worked perfectly cutting out the petty blanks.
Now onto some photos, progress and, yes you guessed right - mistakes
Project #3
After I hand ground the first two blades (small puukko blades) and that went quite OK, I decided to give kitchen knife a go - tall petty seemed like something doable, although I suspected that grinding angles as low as kitchen knife require will be a challenge - and I was correct
The design:
Grinding the bevels with a jig:
Out of HT (together with first 2 blades):
Once the initial joy of having first 3 blades out of HT without any obvious damage, I realised that I left the kitchen knife blade way too thick behind the edge:
I got a digital calliper and measured the blade - 1.7mm 10mm from the edge - way too much - I was aiming for about 1.2mm. So there was about 0.5mm thickness of material to be removed over more than half of total surface of the blade. I realised that I am going to need the best material removal I can get - and the choice was Atoma 140.
It took me around 6 hours in several sessions to get the thickness down and get some semi-usable distal taper. It also left deep scratches and very obvious elongated stripes as I was grinding at fixed distance from the edge along the blade. Excuse the rust - this was not really avoidable as the blade was wet for prolonged time.
I started to think how to remove the worst of the scratches and uneven grind on the Atome as I supposed that would be a lot of work on a stone. I came up with an idea: holding the knife perpendicular to the Atoma and rocking it slightly while grinding it - and it worked:
I moved to Bester 220 and changed the angle of grinding to see whether I am getting all the Atoma scratches out. I used the same 'rocking' technique as I did with the Atoma. The result was not as homogenous - mostly because it is not easy to rock a knife while holding it under angle relative to the stone while grinding:
knifemaking project #3 by Matus
Since this is a monosteel knife I decided to move on to wet sanding paper - 120 followed by 180 (240 proved to be too large of a step from 120). The plan is to take it up to about 400. Here after 180
[url=https://flic.kr/p/GTZqLU]
I was nearly finished with 180 when I realised that all that thinning altered the blade profile slightly (in particular towards the tip), so I took it to my JNS300 to do some minor adjustments. Those are finished and I will turn to finished the blade and making a handle in the near future.
Next: Project #5
I am looking forward to your comments and questions
I am working on both kitchen and outdoor knives, but will only post the kitchen knives here, to stay in line with the forum
So - the projects - overview:
#3
- 165mm tall petty (or petit gyuto) in O1 steel
- made entirely with non powered tools (not something I want to brag about, just state of matters in my workshop)
#5
- 240mm gyuto, D2 steel, 3.3mm stock
- ground by hand, but then reworked on a grinder
#7
- 8 pieces or 180mm petty in O1 steel, 2.2mm stock
- the main point here is to learn bevel grinding with the grinder - I figured that trying to make the same knife will make it easier to learn rather than using different blade shape with every knife. I have no idea whether any of these will be any good.
General info:
- I am not doing HT - I am sending blades out to pros (carbon blades to Achim Wirtz, stainless to Juergen Schanz)
- I have a very small shop and started in March this year
- I have recently got a 1x30" belt grinder and angle grinder - both really help to speed up things. I am just starting to learn to use the belt grinder, the angle grinder worked perfectly cutting out the petty blanks.
Now onto some photos, progress and, yes you guessed right - mistakes
Project #3
After I hand ground the first two blades (small puukko blades) and that went quite OK, I decided to give kitchen knife a go - tall petty seemed like something doable, although I suspected that grinding angles as low as kitchen knife require will be a challenge - and I was correct
The design:
Grinding the bevels with a jig:
Out of HT (together with first 2 blades):
Once the initial joy of having first 3 blades out of HT without any obvious damage, I realised that I left the kitchen knife blade way too thick behind the edge:
I got a digital calliper and measured the blade - 1.7mm 10mm from the edge - way too much - I was aiming for about 1.2mm. So there was about 0.5mm thickness of material to be removed over more than half of total surface of the blade. I realised that I am going to need the best material removal I can get - and the choice was Atoma 140.
It took me around 6 hours in several sessions to get the thickness down and get some semi-usable distal taper. It also left deep scratches and very obvious elongated stripes as I was grinding at fixed distance from the edge along the blade. Excuse the rust - this was not really avoidable as the blade was wet for prolonged time.
I started to think how to remove the worst of the scratches and uneven grind on the Atome as I supposed that would be a lot of work on a stone. I came up with an idea: holding the knife perpendicular to the Atoma and rocking it slightly while grinding it - and it worked:
I moved to Bester 220 and changed the angle of grinding to see whether I am getting all the Atoma scratches out. I used the same 'rocking' technique as I did with the Atoma. The result was not as homogenous - mostly because it is not easy to rock a knife while holding it under angle relative to the stone while grinding:
knifemaking project #3 by Matus
Since this is a monosteel knife I decided to move on to wet sanding paper - 120 followed by 180 (240 proved to be too large of a step from 120). The plan is to take it up to about 400. Here after 180
[url=https://flic.kr/p/GTZqLU]
I was nearly finished with 180 when I realised that all that thinning altered the blade profile slightly (in particular towards the tip), so I took it to my JNS300 to do some minor adjustments. Those are finished and I will turn to finished the blade and making a handle in the near future.
Next: Project #5
I am looking forward to your comments and questions