Working With Wenge and Other Dense Woods?

[HumbleHomeCook]

Okay, so assuming I conquer my intimidation of these very dense wenge blanks, anyone have tips or pointers?

No doubt fresh abrasives will be critical.

Do you fill the voids? If so, epoxy?

 

[MSicardCutlery]

Shape then fill, but I suspect you already know that. CA glue works, epoxy works, multiple coats of BLO work, polyurethane too. You could even mix the last two.

 

[tostadas]

If you want to fill, medium CA glue and sawdust works well. For wenge in particular, I actually like to go super coarse, like 120 or 180 finish with open grain.

 

[HumbleHomeCook]

Shape then fill, but I suspect you already know that. CA glue works, epoxy works, multiple coats of BLO work, polyurethane too. You could even mix the last two.

If you want to fill, medium CA glue and sawdust works well. For wenge in particular, I actually like to go super coarse, like 120 or 180 finish with open grain.

Thanks much fellas. Do you prefer to fill? Down sides to leaving as is?

 

[MSicardCutlery]

Filling makes for a more eve finish and fully seals the grain if you do it right.

 

[HumbleHomeCook]

Filling makes for a more eve finish and fully seals the grain if you do it right.

No doubt on both counts Matt. It's interesting to ponder and I reckon I'll just have to decide at the time. I mean, as dense as it seems to be and given how we care for our knives, I have to guess it fare just fine as is.

Of course, I still gotta actually cut it, shape it, etc.

 

[MSicardCutlery]

You'll be fine. I find ebony easy to deal with, though it is hard stuff. It's much harder to overshoot your lines with harder woods since they cut so much more slowly. Symmetry is easier to pin down if the wood is harder. A 40 grit disk just demolishes oak...ebony not so much.

 

[tostadas]

Thanks much fellas. Do you prefer to fill? Down sides to leaving as is?

I did 220 on this one with no grain fill.
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/thoughts-on-generic-wenge-handles.57604/
It came out OK, but I still wasnt crazy about it. On one of my cleavers, I took it down to 120, then finish coated it and I liked that much better.

 

[Troopah_Knives]

Thanks much fellas. Do you prefer to fill? Down sides to leaving as is?

I honestly wouldn't fill wenge. It has great texture as is.

 

[HumbleHomeCook]

I honestly wouldn't fill wenge. It has great texture as is.

That's my inclination as well. Thank you.

 

[Pie]

I have a fairly roughly finished stock wenge handle, the holes are… I have something against them. Double that with it being on a honesuki and sanitation becomes a consideration. My humble opinion, of course.

That said I don’t have the seeds to man up and fill them.

 

[M1k3]

In my opinion, only fill the holes that may become a problem later down the road. I really like using wenge for a handle. @ian has some experience with it also.

 

[ian]

I know nothing… just made a couple handles using it. Never felt the need to intentionally fill holes or anything. Finished with tung oil.

 

[HumbleHomeCook]

Thanks all.

Did some reading last night and people were freaking out about splinters and festering.

I'm honestly not that concerned as they were furniture builders but they sure had a lot to say about that.

 

[Troopah_Knives]

Thanks all.

Did some reading last night and people were freaking out about splinters and festering.

I'm honestly not that concerned as they were furniture builders but they sure had a lot to say about that.

I've worked with it in instruments and everyone is very concerned about that. But I think that's because a lot of the woods used by instrument makers and furniture builders are pretty mild. We knife makers use the heck-a toxic stuff.

 

[RonB]

This may be a bit late, but wenge can cause certain health issues - especially the dust and splinters:

Wenge | The Wood Database (Hardwood)

 

[tostadas]

This may be a bit late, but wenge can cause certain health issues - especially the dust and splinters:

Wenge | The Wood Database (Hardwood)

To be fair, a lot of the exotic hardwoods are really nasty to work with. For example all the dalbergia (ie. Ebony, rosewood, African blackwood, etc) can cause very bad allergic reactions. For any kind of woodwork it's in your best interest to use proper ppe and keep yourself healthy.

 

[M1k3]

I believe even less toxic woods can issues without using protection. Especially inhaling the dust.

 

[Choppin]

https://www.finewoodworking.com/pro...to-create-a-textured-finish-with-a-wire-brush
another interesting option

 

[Choppin]

I just refinished my vintage Masakane's tagayasan handle. It arrived to me in good shape but a bit dull, so I decided to sand it up to 600 grit. I wasn't happy with the finish, too flat / two-dimensional. I started searching here and saw @tostadas post so decided to finish coarser. I used a 3M Medium softback sanding sponge (rated 120-180 grit) and finished with oil. Much happier with the result.

 

[HumbleHomeCook]

I just refinished my vintage Masakane's tagayasan handle. It arrived to me in good shape bit a bit dull, so I decided to sand it up to 600 grit. I wasn't happy with the finish, too flat / two-dimensional. I started searching here and saw @tostadas post so decided to finish coarser. I used a 3M Medium soft back sanding sponge (rated 120-180 grit) and finished with oil. Much happier with the result.

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That looks awesome. Nice job!

 

[Choppin]

That looks awesome. Nice job!

thank you!