Would this work?

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the HF torch will work fine, up to a certain forge volume.

I wouldn't try and go any bigger than a roughly 8"x4" cylinder with the HF torch.

It says it can get up to 3000 degrees with the turbo boost but it doesn't say what the sustained BTU output is so I couldn't calculate an exact forge volume.

Oxy Acetylene will get you up to temp faster but it's to expensive to bother with, once the forge itself is up to temp you use that to heat the steel not the torch. Propane is plenty efficient for that.
 
It depends on what you are looking to do. For blade forging I would recommend www.chiliforge.com you can even do small billets of damascus in that forge.
It burns about 1/2 gallon of LP per hour. For more serious forging you need something more substantial.
 
That torch will work but will not be optimum. I have heard that they can promote scaling due to not being able to adjust the air/ propane ratio, but have not used one personally. I watched a video of Tia Goo using one and he does some amazing knife work. If you have already forged and know you like it I would reccomend building a better forge with a blown or adjustable venturi burner or buying a premade forge. (the entry level diamond back forge works great). If you just want to give forging a try or have not forged much to know if you will get into it, then a simple forge with that burner should get you started and propably hooked.
 
LB White makes torches rated at 200,000 and 500,00, the latter of which I've used to fire my 65 cu. ft. car kiln for the last 17 years. This page gives you some info on them. Unless you need regulators, handles and stuff, just order the torch and orifice. I'm not sure what they cost now, but my first 2 sets were $50.00/pair.
 
LB White makes torches rated at 200,000 and 500,00, the latter of which I've used to fire my 65 cu. ft. car kiln for the last 17 years. This page gives you some info on them. Unless you need regulators, handles and stuff, just order the torch and orifice. I'm not sure what they cost now, but my first 2 sets were $50.00/pair.



65CuFt is a LOT more than any bladesmith would need,

what cone are you firing to?

forge welding would require about cone 7 (2200 ish) whereas general forging is better done around cone 04 (1900 ish)

for a 2 CuFt forge (3456CuIn - which is really big for most bladesmiths) would require roughly a 60k BTU/hr which is significantly less than the smallest burner they list (that or my math is off)



(my largest forge is only about 600 CuIn)
 
Stephan, I bisque fire at cone 06, and glaze fire to cone 9-10, the latter taking about 16 hours for the cones to bend. I'm using 3.5 psi from cone 08 to 9-10. I was just trying to point out an inexpensive alternative. Lots of folks around here build their own burners. We do like to play with fire :)
 
Colin, aren't you opening a new restaurant soon? Is that not time consuming enough for you, ya gotta start building knives at the same time?
 
pounding on hot steel can really help with that
sooo much fun even when i dont make anything that is knife shaped
 
Do some more research on blown forges.
I dont know what you want to invest $$ wise, but a lot of us knife mamkers make their own blown gas forges for less than $100 each.

Basicly you need a container (pipe) to hold the refractory (insawool) and a blower with some piping and a regulator.

The next one Im building will be with a pre cast hard refractory liner from these guys http://www.hitempincusa.com/firebricks.asp.

There are a couple of tutorials over on knifedogs that cover it in much more depth.

Gpd Bless
Mike
 
I have a Chile Forge Habanero with the old style burners and it gets plenty hot enough to forge weld a 6 x 1.5 x 2.5-3 inch stack of 1084 and 15N20. Their new models come with the new, improved burners and bigger openings so you can get a bigger billet into them. I have been happy with mine. With that said, my next forge is going to be a round 12 inch blown vertical forge or one that is stretched to 16 inches long like Ed Caffreys big forge and will be specifically for forge welding. You can put crushed up soft fire bricks in the bottom and when they get too much flux on them, you just dump them out and put new brick bits in. IMO, flux is the biggest problem you will have with any forge.
 
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