Yo Handle Replacement?

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I might just have well titled this thread, "Tell Me What I Already Know - I Shouldn't Try This." 😁

So let's start with I've never done anything quite like this before. I have predominantly hand tools. I've done a few wa handles but only the last couple really turned out. So symmetry, pins, the ferrules... :oops:

On the knife in question, the wood scales have shrunk below the tang. Here it is:

20230929_142712.jpg


20230929_142812.jpg


20230929_142858.jpg


20230929_142904.jpg


It's a sweet blade that I wouldn't mind sprucing up the handle on. But, I also only paid $40 for it and the issue isn't terribly annoying so it would be alright if it stays as is. At least for now. :)

I thought about maybe hidden pins but not sure that would really simplify things any. I reckon it's the ferrule fitment that would screw me the hardest.

Thoughts?
 
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File the tang flush.....far less headache.
Thought about that. Actually thought about going full rat tang and wa too.


That was my thought, and is that ebony? If so, I would try to keep it. But please do as you wish, a nice burl or another great wood would be nice too.

I don't think it is no. The pics don't show it but it's pretty brown. I know that isn't the best gauge.
 
Non tapered tang is not too bad to deal with. You don't have to drill angled holes into your wood, which you'd have to do if it were tapered.

Potential challenge could depend on how square the ferrule is to the tang. If not square, then you could always hide gaps TF style with dyed epoxy.

Same with hidden pins, you could slightly oversize the hidden holes to allow for some play when installing. But just cautioning, whenever you cut corners on your own knives, no one else will ever know, but if you're a picky person, it will bother you every time you think about it.

I say rip em off and just go for it. Worst case, grab a hotdog bun from the supermarket and call it good
 
Non tapered tang is not too bad to deal with. You don't have to drill angled holes into your wood, which you'd have to do if it were tapered.

Potential challenge could depend on how square the ferrule is to the tang. If not square, then you could always hide gaps TF style with dyed epoxy.

Same with hidden pins, you could slightly oversize the hidden holes to allow for some play when installing. But just cautioning, whenever you cut corners on your own knives, no one else will ever know, but if you're a picky person, it will bother you every time you think about it.

I say rip em off and just go for it. Worst case, grab a hotdog bun from the supermarket and call it good

Thanks buddy. Trust me, at this stage, I could definitely live with myself. 😁
 
I say go for it, but it would turn into a whole thing for me (adding taper, setting symmetry, figuring out scales, liners or no, mechanical attachment method, should the tang shape be altered, how much the existing width should change to fit my hand, etc.) so I might not be the best person to listen to. It's a lot easier to keep using it and just refine the current one so it's less bothersome.
 
I’ve done a santoku for my friends wedding gift with mostly hand tools.

I had a 1x30 and 4x36 belt sanders. To take a lot of the elbow grease out of shaping, you could get away with rasps and such but my elbows and wrists thanked me.

Also, borrowed a Drill press for the tang. But you could get away will smaller pins and not need one.
 
Roughing the shape with a hacksaw was a faff, though. I wish I even had one of those jigsaw “band saws”

Shoutout to @ThEoRy. This is the method I used.

 
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Perhaps easing a bit the protruding tang parts is all you need. And soaking the wood. Perfectionism could be your worse enemy. If you want tang and wood to really flush you will have to remove both a lot of steel and some wood as well. Not easy not to remove too much of the softer wood. Not sure it is all worth the trouble. Got a barely used Masamoto HC of 30 years old or so, with an ebony handle. The seller warned me about the protruding tang. In fact, there is some fluctuation depending on the air humidity. For sure, I can appreciate nicely worked handles, but with this one it hardly bothers me. It has become a part of its character.
 
I would file the tang flush. I was gonna do it, which would take 30 minutes or however it would actually end up taking me, but it was also a $40 knife. The wood isn't ebony. It's some stained hardwood, kinda rough and porous

Yeah, I was just kicking around a new project. Probably just finish up filing and see how bored I get this winter. 😁
 
I’d rub it generously with acetone or other solvent (turpentine, mineral spirits, etc), then after dry soak in mineral oil overnight, then file any excess tang, sand the wood to 400 or so and oil.

The wood is in good shape. These old yo handles look surprisingly good with a simple sanding and oiling, even simple wood (hell, even magnolia looks good properly finished).
 
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