your shibata kashima's flat spot (vs ks)

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jsph

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straight up: does your shibata kashima have a flat spot at all? if so, how long is it? (specifically interested in the ~240mm.)

the shibata kashima is obviously meant as a very close ks clone, but i understand the ks very definitely has a decent flat spot extending from the heel quite a ways before it starts to curve upward; the shibata kashima, i'm increasingly getting the sense it might have little-to-no true flat spot.

there are many actual, current owners of this knife on the forum, so i hope there are a good number of concrete answers from actual knives available on hand to check and measure.
 
3-4inches or so. Don’t remember what the KS was like in practice, but this one isn’t as flat as the Yoshikane but isn’t all curve like S Tanaka or Takeda either.

image.jpg
 
gorillagrunt:

crumbs! curses! that looks perfect -- and i hesitated buying one because i started reading/seeing it had little-to-no flat spot -- and now it's sold out! gah.

(still: thank you, very much. i'm really touched you'd take the time, answer so quickly, ~measure, and include such a clear picture. it was the lack of totally precise and clear information/image that -- ugh! -- caused just enough confusion to keep me from buying when i had the chance.)

crumbs!
 
(daveb:

thank you, that does look nice, but i'm staying away from white steel because i won't be able to keep up the edge. i've done a lot of reading and it really looks like the shibata kashima might be the only option that combines: (1) ks profile, (2) thin blade, and (3) a high edge-retention steel (e.g., powder steel sg2/r2, blue 2/super, hd2, zdp, etc), preferably stainless but not necessarily. [i see the hap40 and gs+ togattas, but (1) i'd rather have sg2/r2, and (2) it's the shibata kashima that is most often referred to as the best in this ks + thin + stainless/super steel.]

... but once i found it i waffled too long, reading/seeing more and getting confused, and now the shibata kashima is sold out. crumbs. hate to have to, like, pay double the price and possibly-disrespectfully ask a knife-maker to duplicate a ks using sg2/r2.)
 
thanks, zizirex. hadn't thought of that. i'll try.
 
The first Yoshikane( white 2 Hamono) I’ve tried do have alot of flat spot, liked 2/3 of the blade almost completely flat, it’s almost impossible to rock chop, but the 2nd one (YS) doesn’t have too much flat spot, I was kind of surprised when I first test cut with it.
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(daveb:

thank you, that does look nice, but i'm staying away from white steel because i won't be able to keep up the edge. i've done a lot of reading and it really looks like the shibata kashima might be the only option that combines: (1) ks profile, (2) thin blade, and (3) a high edge-retention steel (e.g., powder steel sg2/r2, blue 2/super, hd2, zdp, etc), preferably stainless but not necessarily. [i see the hap40 and gs+ togattas, but (1) i'd rather have sg2/r2, and (2) it's the shibata kashima that is most often referred to as the best in this ks + thin + stainless/super steel.]

I'm not sure of how long or much you've been involved with higher end kitchen knives so if this is old hat to you I'll apologize in advance.

A frequent misstep of newcomers is to buy into the hype of particular steels. In my experience the difference a particular steel makes is almost negligible. I have a pretty good representation of steel among the knives I like and would not be able to say "Oh this white sharpens so well" or "this blue (or powder) retains an edge so well" or "sucks that this white has no edge retention". A common mantra here is the heat treat is more important than the steel or the maker is more important than the steel. You might be able to discern a difference with the powdered but don't know that I could. A recent and notable exception for me is Zwear, a ***** to sharpen but will retain a brilliant edge through a couple large catering events.

And I've got to ask if you have used a KS? I like all the things you mentioned, thin at the tip, long flat, weight is about right, but I don't like the KS at all. It does work for a lot of people and if you like it, you should have it, but again don't let the hype drive the purchase. If you know that's what you like and if you want a "clone" in a long wearing steel, suggest you contact HSC about a Zwear variant (and he may work in sg2/r2).

Best of luck in your search.
 
jason183:
that is a beautiful, beautiful knife. thank you (and gorillagrunt, again) for the picture and showing the profile so clearly on the board. the profile of the cutting edge looks really neat. when you mention the super-flat one, it reminds me of some others, including a lot of kiritsukes, that are super flat and make me think i would find too weird. ... which is actually funny to say, because there was a five-year stretch when i used a chinese cleaver almost exclusively, and that was almost perfectly flat except for a subtle arch along the whole length. regardless, thanks for the beauty shot -- and, if i may ask, can you tell me if that mirror finish is how it came or did you do the polishing?

daveb:
thanks again. i appreciate your concern. no offence taken.

i am avoiding white steel because, regardless of knife-maker / heat-treat / profile / etc, even lovers of white steel admit its lack of corrosion resistance causes the edge to degrade quickly just from the food being cut; as i say, i'm not remotely good enough to constantly maintain anything like an impressive edge on white steel, so that is one i'm specifically counting out for now. (yes, i should learn to sharpen. that's not going to be possible anytime soon.) i have about four months' experience with two different borrowed sg2 knives which had frighteningly sharp edges and which, no exaggeration, maintained those edges with little change the entire time i had them. (i am not remotely a professional cook, either, so the amount of home cooking i do isn't massive, but even with the modest amount of everyday cutting, i am used to seeing edges last nowhere near that long. also saw no micro-chipping in my use.) i have two aeb-l knives which have been quite good but very different from those sg2s, to begin with and over time, so just for the next purchase i'm not interested in that kind of thing either. i would be fine with a number of different steels, depending on the knife and maker. there just don't seem to be too many ~truly ks-profile knives in the first place, and following the dedicated thread(s) on this, the shibata kashima comes out at or near the top very consistently -- and the same when the conversation is about lasers or near-lasers.

i'm not particularly chauvinistic toward sg2/r2 super-specifically but, having spent way too much time reading all the resources you grizzled pirates always direct people to, there are certain groups/classes of steels that clearly do better than others in terms of edge retention, toughness, and potential sharpness -- assuming, as you say, a decent knife-maker and proper heat treatment. that means, if something that gets as much praise as the shibata kashima were made in aogami 2/super or 52100 or sg2/r2 or hap40 or hd2 or a number of a half-dozen semi-popular such steels, stainless or semi- or not, i'm sure i would be equally happy; but if someone said the shibata kashima was 440c or aus8 or vg10 (the latter of which i do have, and is killer sharp, but i find myself always babying for fear of chipping and tipping, which sg2 doesn't require) -- or white/shirogami, which i was mentioning -- then i would keep looking at it. i didn't think i was saying anything different, really, than what many of the salty old characters say here, including the ones who love (and love to sharpen) white steel. i understand heat-treatment, the knife-maker, the grind, etc, can all trump the alloy/metallurgy itself -- but i started off my question by asking specifically about a knife from mr takayuki shibata, who, from many comments here, i understand to be well respected; many people swear by his kashima and even more so his koutetsu (which i would find too flat and cleaver-y). speaking of profile: you're totally right about needing to use a knife to see whether the profile is right, and (more in the past than recently) i've been instantly disappointed when trying out various ones that looked ok -- likewise because of balance and other mechanical factors, too; regarding the ks specifically, i've not had the pleasure but have found that its profile (not just based on photographs but on one or two outlines / cut-outs available) is very remarkably similar to a couple of no-name, cheapie euro-style knifes i spent many many years using. (not the top/spine profile, but the cutting-edge profile.) (to some extent, though not exactly, the herder 1923 ~9" could be similar, too, but i'm having trouble finding a source for a new one at what most forum members seem to indicate would be the baseline price.)

it was kindof a revelation, actually, to see that -- when i was really inspecting some of these no-name cheapie knives that, while being kindof crappy and boring (and not much past 50-something hrc, thick behind the edge, etc, etc), work for me very very well _mechanically_ (because, obviously, i've used them / similar ones so much). so, i know i'm not going to buy a ks, because it's more than i can afford, the new grinds are different anyway, and the white steel... well, see above -- but when i see that kind of cutting edge profile, i have good reason to think it'll be ok. ... and it might matter that the first time i saw one (totally anonymously appearing, unmentioned, on a a cooking-show camera's bird's eye view of a counter-top -- not some shill's overblown hype machine) it quite simply _looked_ right, in a way that few knives do, and that, i think, is also hand-eye intuition that probably isn't way off the mark. (e.g., hate to insult anybody's tastes here, but look at the zwilling pro 10" chef knife and tell me you don't get the opposite feeling -- a rectangle blade with a half-rounded corner. it may as well be a weird long cleaver.) certainly the devil's in the details -- the exact angle(s) of curvature, the exact height of the tip off the board, etc, but i know that what works for me is much closer to what we call a ks edge profile than, e.g., flatter kiritsukes or cleavers or much more curved (and never flat) profiles, like one being discussed very recently with respect to a western gyuto that was on sale. the latter is what c k t g's photo of the shibata kashima blade made its profile appear to be, at least of the blade-only ones that were still available until just a day or two ago -- all curve and/or possibly even with a curve upward again ("relief"?) after the flat spot back toward the heel -- and which i'm grateful to gorillagrunt for clearing up so nicely.

if i'm not able to get a new shibata kashima anytime soon, i definitely have thought, as you nicely suggested, of asking either the swashbuckling hsc or the mad scientist kippington if they would not be too insulted if i ask for an exact ks-profile clone in a steel like sg2 or blue 2/super or zwear -- which i have been reading about a lot (zwear, i mean), but not sure of price-wise -- or even 52100 at ~61hrc. in fact, if that happened, i would start by asking hsc or kippington their advice, first, about their preferred and most familiar steels, than to go in all pushy about one or another too specifically. the problem is (besides possibly insulting a real artist by asking him to make a profile-duplicate of the most overhyped profile of all time) the price, more than anything, and if somewhere in japan mr shibata is already creating the profile i (think i) am looking for in the steel i (think i) am looking for at a price that is, frankly, in the _low_ range for such a knife, then i would be doing the right thing to not bother either hsc or kippington with my request. the only thing is, though, that... sigh... mr kippington in particular... the idea that he could create something that follows his buckaroo frankenstein idea of a chunky-chunky spine at the neck/heel, then going swiftly into a freakishly thin distal taper as well as a freakishly-thin-behind-the-edge grind yet with leprechaun-like food release -- that seems to me a few dizzying steps up from having a laser-thin neck, where i pinch grip. still, price-wise -- and please-don't-bother-hsc-/-mr-kippington--wise -- i think i would be doing the right thing for now to start with the ready-made, ~$250-or-less kashima.

anyway, i wanted to be sure you knew i appreciated your taking the time with your comments and that they actually line up very well with what i have been quietly absorbing here for a long time now, even though without the opportunity to buy / try too many new knives and have real experience on these same japanese knives/steels/profiles being discussed, mostly because of the budget situation and for being in canada, which makes some of the easy/cheap buy/sell/trade try-it-out activity more cumbersome and expensive. ... and, of course, the shibata kashima is only available through one u.s. vendor, which means there's a big shipping fee (something like +15% of the knife itself), sometimes customs/duty, and trouble if a return/exchange is necessary, so i wanted to be as close to sure as i could be before buying. unfortunately, i waited just a couple of days too long; sold out.

... and if you read all of that, I hereby certify you with the official KKF "Too Long, Yet Did Read" badge of staminous erudition, if you didn't get one already from the 60-page treatise on edge retention (hereafter, "the bible") or the various threads on "everything you wanted to know about distal taper but were afraid to ask", "the care and feeding of your convex grind", and other hits.
 
It doesn’t have a really nice finish - it’s pretty coarse actually, then likely buffed , which is just fine for me because it’s one I keep around to fill a role. I’ve tried a bunch of lasers including a couple of the pointy ones and this one hasn’t ever been unseated. It’s also my favorite KS profile knife including the KS (which was actually one of my least favorites, but more in an it-doesn’t suit-me kind of way).
 
jason183:
that is a beautiful, beautiful knife. thank you (and gorillagrunt, again) for the picture and showing the profile so clearly on the board. the profile of the cutting edge looks really neat. when you mention the super-flat one, it reminds me of some others, including a lot of kiritsukes, that are super flat and make me think i would find too weird. ... which is actually funny to say, because there was a five-year stretch when i used a chinese cleaver almost exclusively, and that was almost perfectly flat except for a subtle arch along the whole length. regardless, thanks for the beauty shot -- and, if i may ask, can you tell me if that mirror finish is how it came or did you do the polishing?

Most Yoshikane knives has that kind of mirror polished cutting edge. I prefer knives with some flat spots also, but it has to be a good balance between the heel and the tip(measures from center spine)with a little bit of curvature to help the rocking motion, also gives you more workable cutting length out of it.
 

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gorillagrunt:
it's funny, you're reminding me of a number of things i've read and re-read re: this knife the last few months -- not just the finish (which, from your and others' descriptions i think i would really like (so long as the remaining texture runs vertically, from the edge to the spine, not longitudinally, from the heel to the tip; not an aesthetic thing, a cutting-performance thing)) but that it is often the ~laser that people keep after trying and re-selling many others, and that it is (for many, not all) a better ks than the ks. i would like it if the kashima were the same length as the ks, and i would like it if it (like i think the ks does) had a thicker spine at the neck / pinch-grip and then quickly had an strong taper to a thin, stabby tip, and still a thin ~laser grind, but even with those waffles, there doesn't seem much doubt that mr shibata is doing an excellent job with the ~laser + ks (+ sg2) idiom, based on most people's experience here. a number of times when someone's comment has been that they like another ~laser better, it was immediately followed by the person saying that that better knife was shibata's own koutetsu. so that ends up being praise again after all.

jason183:
thanks. to repeat, the mirror finish kicks butt, maybe even more so because of the texture contrast with what's above it. ... and what you say about flat plus/versus curvature is pretty much exactly what i think -- probably what most people think, i guess, but with each of us putting greater/lesser emphasis on the flat and the curve. it's really interesting to think that very small differences in the curvature in the front ~ 1/3 of the knife, combined with the height of the tip, can make such big differences in the rocking behaviour, and not necessarily just for people who do serious/official "rocking" but just in a normal forward/backward motion in general. this is where daveb's comment is totally correct in terms of actually trying out a ks -- or any profile -- to see/feel if mechanically it's ok. then again, many people here also talk about the importance of adjusting technique, too, sometimes, either to fit a knife better or a particular cutting task. like i said above, i spent some time with two really sharp sg2 knives a while back and -- holy buns -- were they ever so scary sharp that they could not be stopped from palpably cutting into the cutting-board. ... exactly as i've heard described from others here. ... which then makes it scary if you are a rock-and-rotate-slightly guy, like i am sometimes, to think you could snap off tiny chunks of your blade in the cutting board. didn't happen but sure felt like it might. still, it was so fun to have that feeling, of a knife being so sharp, to effortlessly go into the cutting board like that. maybe over time could get me to exert less force, become a more elegant cutter...? ;)

gorillagrunt:
i was originally, ya, but you've done me a big favour. i've been thinking a lot the last few months about the surface finish on knives and its effect on "stiction" (?), food release, and, maybe most of all, the friction / resistance / whatever of just sliding downward through food. ... and with the shibata kashima and some similarly finished knives, i wonder if (as mentioned above), the kind of finish you're describing might actually be a good trade-off between a mirror finish's reduced friction and its increased food-sucking problem, and a rough finish's reduced food-sticking/-sucking but increased drag when traveling down through food. years and years ago, i realized i had for weeks been feeling this without knowing i was feeling it, switching between a victorinox fibrox, which is not exactly mirror finished by close (let's say, a very very smooth "satin" or a hazy mirror) and a wusthof classic, with its very gentle grind-mark texture. ... but i didn't think too much at the time, really; it just came back to me when i was trying a knife with a very rough, matte grey, etched damascus, and you really really felt that. that's part of the interest in jason183's partially-mirrored blade, which i've seen on various other knives and which has made me wonder about the performance properties, actually, of having the cut start where the steel will be totally smooth and offer no drag, then have the cut food travel up against a matte or even tsuchime / kuruochi, which would certainly not suck on to the cut food like a fully-mirror (let's assume flat-grind) surface would.

gorillagrunt, cont.:
when you have a minute, could i ask you to check/confirm something else for me, which i haven't been able to get a proper sense of from everything i've read/seen? the ground sides of the shibata kashima, from spine to edge -- is it just ground flat/straight from spine to edge, or is it beveled (probably not for a ~laser), or is it very slightly convex? i don't mean just a question of whether the cutting _edge_ is sharpened convexly/conically, but the full grind of the sides -- if you were to put a straight-edge from spine to edge, would it just lie flat, or would it roll/wobble a bit and show daylight above/below a certain point? (funny enough, in a different dimension/direction, this has the same flavour as the original question of resting the profile against a straight surface [cutting board] to see its shape better.)
 
Yes, the mirror polishing on yoshikane’s cutting edge can be very sticky for some wet food with the combination of that flat bevel grind when push cutting, it helps when slicing raw meats. White 2 Hamono I’ve tried loses that mirror polish edge fast cause it’s very reactive compared to SKD/SLD version. The Shibata knives should have a full convex grind from spine to cutting edge.
 
Hard to get a picture of it without a third hand but it is gently convex, almost like a wide bevel with a rounded shoulder. The Kohetsu Hap40 is slightly more convex for a powder steel laser but I don’t think it’s much less sticky; haven’t tried the GS+. I do the straight edge thing like you describe all the time to get a sense of the grind. My local knifemaker can figure all that out by just feeling the blade! Grind marks are vertical. Length is something like 245-247, oversized for a 240 but not quite the 255.
 
I haven’t measured the GS+ before I sold it, but it felt liked flat grind, has very little meat around the shoulder area.
 
jason183:
it's funny, i'd never thought of white steel as also not holding on to a mirror polish because of food corrosion, only concerned about the cutting edge's upkeep. obvious now in retrospect. ... but, more, thanks for reminding me to think about / look at skd/sld versions.... also, thanks, as below for gorilla grunt, for confirmation re: kashima's convex grind. thanks for comment re: gs+; i think increasingly i would put it in third or fourth place, after probably the hap40 togatta; i've heard a lot of good about it, but for the few dollars' difference, most comments suggest the shibata sg2 or kohetsu hap40 might be a little better; i think the hd2 ~ks-clone would be up there, too, but i'm getting the sense that it might have very little flat spot, just like a (more snub-nosed) srs15 [not much different from sg2/r2, assuming, as daveb said, good heat treatment, etc] that appears to have maybe no flat spot at all.

gorillagrunt:
thanks again, very much, for inspecting it so closely and describing it so clearly. that is really very helpful (and very reassuring). thank you so much also for confirming, with knife in hand, about all those other properties and measurements. really appreciate your mentioning the kohetsu hap40, which i'm assuming you mean the togatta (i.e., ks clone, vs regular gyuto) -- that's a close second place in this sub-sub-category, from what i've read; a little shorter, a little more convex, and a good steel but one (of many) i haven't used.

... but we have to move on to: your "local knifemaker"?!?! are you kidding? that's like off-handedly saying, "sorry i didn't write sooner but my unicorn was in the shop." khwhat?!

daveb:
your benevolent wisdom melts my dusty old heart. it's funny to think something else here, too, or something deeper down or a different side of: i wonder how much people think that ridiculous newbies have a lot to learn, as in there's a truth out there that will take years to acquire, the same truth as the old pros have converged to... versus or combined with the different idea -- particularly considering how much slow-earned-wisdom agreement _and_ idiosyncratic disagreement there is among the old pros, never mind internal contradiction within each person -- that not only does this years-long process of learning and trying and actual in-hand use and playing (and, yes, sharpening; i'm ashamed enough as it is) allow you to learn the truth and wisdom but that that process changes you, making you prefer things that you wouldn't have preferred at the beginning, and not because the later-preferred things are _necessarily_ better but because you have been changed and now can't like would you would have (legitimately and justifiably) liked at the start. (e.g., imagine being 70, gazing lovingly at your 70-year-old wife/husband and thinking how much of a goof you must have been when you were 18, because when you were 18 you were attracted to 18-year-olds, and if you had been wiser and more experienced back then you would have known you should cozy up to a 70-year-old.) that suggests the earlier version of the person, the ridiculous newbie, maybe wasn't exactly wrong in liking x (especially if some old pros still like x; i mean, gorillagrunt's no weenie, to have and like the sg2 kashima -- i guess it's just that i can be considered a weenie for wanting the same knife without having the same gravitas [or gruntitas] carry me to that knife), even if the old-pro later version of that person now can't like x because however many years of messing around makes him/her a different person who likes y -- and for good reason, but for reasons that might not have applied before. i remember for example the business about carter's epiphany having him, already an old pro, switch to only white steel, to master it completely, because of all of its qualities, its purity (literal and symbolic), etc. ... and then _years later still_, following some words (almost certainly from kramer), having the altogether different epiphany of it being true that mastering a single steel -- but almost any decent steel (example given: 52100), with no particular status for white -- could allow you to do wonders with it, whether or not its white or blue or 52100 or sg2 or, let's say re: hsc, zwear. (i would say again that i agree that white steel is great and some incredible knives are white but that _i_ would not be able to maintain the edge at the rate it requires due to corrosion; this same idea has prompted dozens of people, including old pros, to have exhaustive threads re: finding non-white ks equivalents, people who love the ks profile [actual, in use; not hype] but complain about not getting through a few tomatoes, literally, before needing a touch up; and others pointing out that hitachi itself says it doesn't actually recommend shirogami for constant contact with food, due to corrosion.) meaning, we are being changed by the process of learning and trying and using and playing, and i thought that was an interesting and different perspective/flavour on what is actually a different idea, that we are simply working toward what's right, and years of experience allow us to see that and how little we knew before. (not unlike looking at 18-year-olds now and seeing they are basically children, yet at the time thinking you were at least bordering on adult.) it's been really neat, for example, to think about some of mr kippington's weird designs and, from growing experience, actually feeling, physically and intuitively, that certain seemingly counter-inuitive or even bizarre ideas are naturally the correct solution to things that come up only after you have spent so much time with a knife (as i understand mr k has in professional cooking; e.g., you might love the way a laser cuts, but you wont like continuous days worth of having a <2mm spine smash/cut against the underside of your first knuckle or the side of your middle finger, or the feeling of fragility or shear/warping -- i can already appreciate that, but might not have otherwise, and, for instance, find myself begrudgingly admitting a wusthof or sabatier bolster/"finger guard" has a legitimate purpose, even if it's *world*class*pain*in*the*4$$ for sharpening and i don't intend to ever buy a knife with such a bolster/guard [um, ... except the herder]). summing up: thanks again for the older+wider comments and for taking the time to look in on my care and feeding. :)

... and yes, folks, for those of you doing the weekend hunt at home, the easter egg this time was "gazing lovingly".
 
Here’s mine. 2-3 inch flat spot.
 

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chicagohawkie:
thank you so much. that really helps a lot to see it, and to compare with gorillagrunt's and get a sense of variation. so good of you to take the time.
 
dude -- what?! no! _i_ had no doubt you were being friendly and helpful; i wouldn't have thought, much less said, anything mean in response. everyone in this thread has been helpful and taken a lot of time to be. (plus: from many long, wasted months of reading/studying the archives, there are at most two or three reliably abrasive/unpleasant characters on this forum, and i know you're not one of them.)

of course -- gah! -- now you're probably just teasing me and i took the bait. ;) curses....

hm. come to think of it... if the salty old guys were really being evil, to _really_ teach the drippy new guy a lesson, the _right_ thing to do would be to get together and mail me a new shibata kashima and a yoshikane kashima sanjo and thusly force me to realize how clueless i was....

thusly.
 
with the flat spot of chicagohawkie's sample looking quite a bit shorter than gorillagrunt's, are there any others out there with a 240mm shibata kashima, who might want to comment / measure / illustrate?
 
huh... interesting. that's good to know. thanks for adding that.
 
Could have been my sharpening too, I got mine during the ks frenzy so like 3 years ago and was heavier handed sharpening then.
Ya, good point. Mines only been stropped a few times. My guess after a few sharpening the flat spot will expand.
 
Ya, good point. Mines only been stropped a few times. My guess after a few sharpening the flat spot will expand.

crumbs... so now we're back to "the (stock) shibata kashima flat spot is probably shorter rather than longer". murr...

gorillagrunt:
do you have your kohetsu hap40 (assuming togatta profile) still, to be able to comment on its flat spot / curvature relative to the kashima? again, the c k 2 g pictures aren't the clearest.
 
Nah i sold it, i have a picture on my ipad at home though

ok, thanks for letting me know. i guess at a minimum that tells us at least that you liked the shibata kashima more (?), to keep it, which is the feeling i get from a number of other people.
 
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