The jury is still out -http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/13580-Miyabi-FC61-steel-Anyone-know-what-this-isI remember reading here somewhere that it's a fancy name for AEB-L. Don't know if that's true or not though
There's been a number of other threads elsewhere that it is very likely AEB-L. Also hearing Bob Kramer describe the steel used in the Zwilling Kramer Essentials line in this Youtube video definitely makes it sound it's AEB-L he's describing.
The coupons that SLT offers out always have Zwilling and Miyabi listed as an exclusion. They will rarely, but sometimes have one-day sales or the like on the Zwilling Kramers, but to really catch them, you have to join their mailing list...but that's how I was able to get a ZK Essentials 10" Chef for $200 (reg. $250) back in December. As for FC61 steel, it's a good if somewhat of an oddball one. Relatively lower in carbon %, but if heat-treated properly (and the ZKs are), it can achieve good hardness and edge retention, and also the very fine grained steel takes a very keen edge. This video is a good one to learn more about various steels:I have a 6" from the WS Meiji line with SG2 cores. Love the knife. Would consider an 8" SLT Meiji if I get a coupon or see them discounted close to a $200 price point. The profile just works, the handle is comfortable for righties, its decent for a production blade. I don't know much about the FC61 steel though.
Here's an excerpt of the description of FC-61 from the Zwilling Canada page:
I'm no expert but sounds like AEB-L may be a likely candidate.A professional special steel was selected, the hardness, sharpness and strength of which has proved its worth on a number of razor blades.
The ZK stainless damascus has an etched blade finishing. That's what could cause the dragging. The Meiji doesn't seem to look like an etched finish. If it's deep, like richard mentioned, then they probably did a polish over an etched blade. If so, there shouldn't be the dragging you noticed on the SG2 blades.Has anyone seen one of these in hand; if so is the damascus pattern 'deep' like on the SG2 range?
I'm thinking of ordering one of the gyuto, but I wasn't keen on the dragging feeling the SG2 ones had when cutting through thicker produce.
Unless I'm mistaken, it appeared to be ground the same way my ZK Essentials chef knife is...which is mostly flat, but slightly convex and with a very gradual distal taper. I've posted a so-so pic of my ZKE (best I could muster, shadows and lighting are kind of terrible) for you to see. As far as I can tell, it is ground symmetrically, but the edge is about 80/20 or 90/10 with 10 deg per bevel.I'm digging it!!! Richard, what was geometry and grind like? S grind, hollow, convex, flat? Super curious but obviously kind of over priced . No?
Want to clarify my previous comments...they still apply, but I meant to say it feels very light and nimble for a Kramer, and for a very large knife! (The height is quite tall, around 60 mm like other Kramers and it feels closer to a 270 mm than a 240 mm). I wasn't able to weigh it, but my ZKE 10" Chef's weighs in at 10.0 oz, so my best guess is the ZK Meiji 10" weighs 9.5 oz (270 g) or less. The balance point is also a bit forward from my ZKE, on the Meiji it's about 1" in front of the bolster. You can definitely notice the lighter handle in the Meiji, though it's definitely not as extremely blade-heavy as some other wa-gyuto's I've handled. The D-shaped asymmetric handle has a very pronounced ridge on the right side. If you don't pinch up on the knife, you definitely notice that ridge in your hand, but I wouldn't go so far as to say it's uncomfortable. But when you hold the knife in a pinch grip, the D handle with that ridge makes it feel very secure and feels very good in your hand, especially combined with the balance point being perfectly between your thumb and forefinger and the fact that the blade surface is textured from the damascus.it feels very light, nimble and balanced in the hand.
Do I recall you also had a 10" 52100 at some point as well? If so how do you think the 8"&10" compared in terms of profile and usage? I may be getting a very special 8" ZK in the fall, but they almost seem not long enough (I really liked the 10" one with its big flat spot), but the particular ones are only available in 8".Alright....I might have to check one of these out!
My ZK Essential 8' was one of my best all around knives, regret selling it but then again I am kinda an idiot so I'm not surprised I did so
The main difference between the 8" and 10" is that the 10" has a longer flat spot before the curve to the tip begins.Do I recall you also had a 10" 52100 at some point as well? If so how do you think the 8"&10" compared in terms of profile and usage? I may be getting a very special 8" ZK in the fall, but they almost seem not long enough (I really liked the 10" one with its big flat spot), but the particular ones are only available in 8".
Hmm, sounds like the 8" wouldn't be all that bad then, assuming I got it correct that you had the 10" as well. My only real complaint with the 10" was I always seemed to dig the heel into my cutting board, but I was able to adjust for this.The main difference between the 8" and 10" is that the 10" has a longer flat spot before the curve to the tip begins.
I had one and used it a lot but I didn't ever really adapt to the high tip, it felt like I had to lift the handle too high to bring the tip in contact with the board. I also found that I needed to either roll the knife with each cut or grip it very loosely in order to avoid accordion cuts. It was a very enjoyable knife to use, but it did require some technical adjustments (for me at least).
What makes this particular one you're looking at "very special"?