Redwax

It isn't bad to try different things, but at some point you will just have to put in the hours to go from good to very good. The fine...

Just to be clear, Shapton Glass is not better than the Pro. This is all just personal preference. All of the stones you have listed are...

I pretty much form a burr on both sides, on the same stone, repeat with less pressure and then alternate leading passes. Just to...

And one other thing, on the subject of deburring… I find that what Redwax says here is true: After forming an initial apex; I don’t...

One of the first things our genus ever figured out was how to make dull things sharp. We've been doing it for over 2.6 million years...

The answer is *exactly* what @M1k3 replied here: Thin geometry leading into the edge. Hopefully that goes without saying. A finish...

That's true. I have all my knives sharpened but I just realized I don't have to wait for them to get dull to sharpen again

100%. When you’ve just about mastered it is the time to look at all the subtle nuances.

Every minute you spend watching more videos is a minute you could have spent practicing.

As long as you apex the edge and remove any burr, how you get there is up to the sharpener.

From talking to and seeing the results from many very very good sharpeners, I 100% believe that there are many different ways to sharpen...

You're absolutely right. They use the cryo Friodur for all kinds of knives, including the usual 4116 stuff. With all kinds of unique...

Honestly, I'm not sure but the impression I had was that Friodur is the name they give for the special cryo process in their heat...

Nothing wrong with Zische. But FEPA-30 is twice coarser than I find in my gritchard. Meant for maintaining very coarse stones. The steel...

Would you be able to show some links that indicate this? The odd references that I have seen say it is 1.4116 that they use. Thanks.