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When I make leather sayas for carbon blades. I put a thin layer of board butter (mineral oil and beeswax ) in the inside before glueing and stitching.

I squeeze hot glue from a gun into the tang hole, the heat the tang up with a torch and insert. Hold until firm.

I really appreciate the well executed details of the tank. The whole class doesn't appeal to me. It's me not them... at this level of knife enthusiast, there is an element of personal preference and what clicks with me. Nothing wrong with the knife, everyone should try one.

I have started measuring the thickness of the knives I make or thin at various increments, then I can plot the pictures and understand how thickness impacts performance

What's your budget? Could be a cheap 1x30 or a 3x79.

Given everything else that goes out the sewer lines, I can't imagine how small size particles will be an issue.

I am seeing mixed reviews of these on the blade smithing group. Tracking issues. Other things.

I have a lodge, I would buy it again. I have also heard good things about tramotina (sp?) from Costco.

I was shadow banned during this. I clicked appeal and was back in the recommended zone in 12 hrs. Option one. IG AI messed up. It's free ... how can I complain. Option two. This was intended as way to create buzz and traffic.

When you cut paper you are testing the edge, the APEX. Like piercing the skin of a tomato. When you cut food. The thickness and geometry behind the edge are more important.

Personally I just use a long Chef knife.

The wood wicks moisture away from the bacteria on the surface. Drying it out and killing it. As you stay to slice through the coating , it's not even moisture gets in some parts of the wood and causes uneven movement. That can cause cracking.

The IG video in the Op looks like they use it as a splash and go.

I have been making handles for about 6 years. You are absolutely correct. Eventually the end user will feel a light step. It's small. Tactile, not necessarily visible. Some people don't care. No problem. The clients get what they want.

My personal preferences have either a ferrule cap of a different material or about an inch long ferrule. At this level, there is no right or wrong, it's strictly personal preference. In handles with stabilized wood and metal spacer, the wood will always shrink /swell while metal will not.

Tim is a great guy, he taught me loads about grinds. I may even meet him soon.

my concern is the wood has natural Antibacterial properties because it wicks moisture away from anything on the board due to the porous nature. If you fill those pores with a cured finish like tung oil or tru oil , you will basicly have a plastic coating on a wood board. It will increase the...

Am I in the minority?? I find most handles fine. I hate heavy handles and rear balance points. Assuming no sharp edges... Weight is more important to me than shape (within reason ).

I sharpen my magnacut gyuto on shapton glass and pros as well as a king 8000. No problem. I send this knife out to 20+ people on a passaround and people said it was easy to sharpen.

I keep thin and thick glue in the shop along with accelerator. You can think of epoxy as very slow thick CA glue (a broad generalization). You can mask off areas with tape or board butter (1:4 beeswax:mineral oil). I hope that helps.