step one: sight down the cutting edge of blade, do this with the edge parallel to the floor. watch your eyes/face...!
step two: place your finger on the face of the blade where you notice things start to go "pear shaped" as our friends across the pond say...
step three: place the blade on a flat surface, preferably one you know to be level. you want to be able to bend the knife in the opposite direction of the curvature.
step four: bend the knife back into shape using your hands and sight down the cutting edge in the manner described above after every attempt. Go slowly and gradually apply pressure. Holding the knife in the middle of a bend is going to give you more results than trying to apply lots of pressure and holding the position for a few seconds. OR get a big stack of books and put the entire blade on the flat surface, books on top. Come back in 12-24 hours and sight down the cutting edge.
for safety: cover the blade with a cloth while you are bending and be sure to orient your face away from the blade. you should know if you are bending too far, the blade will tell your hands when the steel is straining there is a noticeable tactile response. If anything starts to feel different, stop, sight and try again, applying less force. It's not hard. I would recommend the book method for thicker/stiff knives. Do the best you can, do not go overboard or you will likely end up with a more complex twist which CANNOT be fixed as easily.
You can also make jigs with 2x4 and a router, I believe KnifeWear has a video on youtube on how to do this? There are similar jigs for bending wire, I've seen at lee valley. This is probably a much more reliable method but the table/book method has granted me many a straightened knife over the years.
My understanding was that handmade things are not in perfect true anyway. I have read that about k sab carbone etc. western knives. I know for a fact some of my favourite knives have 0.1mm deviations from being perfectly straight. Have I ever noticed it while cutting? No. Because I am nearly incapable of producing even relatively consistent julienne, brunoise etc by hardcore ocd or kaiseki standards.
I don't think I've ever received a perfectly straight knife either. I don't have a t square or anything like that but that's just my impression from sighting down cutting edges all the time. I could return product all day long with a decent enough SLR camera and appropriate tools at my disposal. Then again I've not bought anything over 200USD yet.
One last thought: just because the spine of your knife isn't straight doesn't mean there's the same problem further down the knife (ie. cutting edge). Sight the blade like a blacksmith, ignore the spine and hold the edge parallel to the floor, sighting down that.