A 100$~ Wa-Gyuto

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Thanks to you all for your help.
I do thinking about buying myself a water stone with my knife, whichever he'll be.
Does one king 1000 stone is enough or should I get another one?

About the saya, it's isn't something I meant to buy, or I would have bought otherwise, but it's pretty nice thing to have!
 
you could always start with a king 1k/6k as it has been a very good beginner water stone for many around these parts...it probably costs about the same as the 1k
 
I just received a Masamoto 270mm stainless in the mail.It was bought through ebay and wasnt advertised as a Masamoto but i recognised the Kanji.I dont know what steel it is made from ,but it has a western grind,i.e. quite thick on the spine but it is quite thin on the edge.It was $60 AUD inclusive of postage so I couldnt resist.Havent used it yet but it looks ok.I dont know how to post a link to an ebay item or i would.If someone can tell me how i will be happy to share.
 
Gesshin uraku stainless 210 or 240 wa-gyuto, I bought the 240 and it's my workhorse, it's $35 more than you want to spend but it's a great knife, nice edge retention, sharpens well, and super thin behind the edge.
 
I know someone who have one of those, so it wouldn't cost me a dime.
This sharpener will give me good results?
 
There are big advantages to freehand sharpening on waterstones. A minosharp will sharpen the edge of the knife - albeit poorly. Sharpening freehand on waterstones allows you to slowly thin your knife with each sharpening, to maintain the knifes geometry. A knifes geometry is the single biggest contributing factor to a knifes performance, after repeated sharpenings with the minosharp, the edge will be substantially thicker and the knife won't cut as well as it did when it was new.

Pick up king 1000 grit stone on ebay, cheaper than the minosharp and you'll be able to maintain your knife a lot better, and gain a really cool skill, that most here probably find very enjoyable.
 
So a 1000+6000 king's water stone is a good starting point, which will give me good results?
Sharpening do seems like a nice art to learn, but not the kind i'm willing to pay 150$ in advance.
 
guyskr said:
So a 1000+6000 king's water stone is a good starting point, which will give me good results?
Sharpening do seems like a nice art to learn, but not the kind i'm willing to pay 150$ in advance.
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It doesn't cost 150 bucks for a king combo stone, atleast not the ones I've seen.
 
I know they don't cost that much, my question is if they are good enough, or does I need to spend something like 150$ to get nice stones.
 
guyskr said:
I know they don't cost that much, my question is if they are good enough, or does I need to spend something like 150$ to get nice stones.
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It depends on how you plan to use them. If sharpening is something that you are interested in or can see yourself getting interested in, it might be worth your time and money to invest more in the beginning then to drop $30-40 on a stone you plan on replacing.

King stones are very usable, and good to learn on. I myself started with a king 800/4000 and i still use it today! I have gotten stones since, but theres nothing wrong with a little king love.

Mowgs
 
Yes. Your knife will get just as sharp on a cheaper stone. The reason people shell out for fancy stones is they might cut faster, dish slower, feel better, make mud, or are splash and go. They'll make the process of sharpening easier or more enjoyable, but you'll get the same results (unless you want to split hairs, literally and/or figuratively).
 
guyskr said:
I know they don't cost that much, my question is if they are good enough, or does I need to spend something like 150$ to get nice stones.
Click to expand...

It'll be more than good enough with a king combo stone. IMO
 
Agree on trying a cheap stone first. My first stone was a King 1/6k which works just fine, as many have mentioned before slower cutting helps when you are learning. Hell I've done thinning and repairs on the 1k side that worked out fine, just took longer.
 
Thanks to you all for your help!
So here is the final question, which one should I buy, the 800/4000 or the 1000/6000?
 
I've only used the 1/6k which was decent, but would defer to No Chop who said the 800/4k is a better stone as I'm sure he knows what he's talking about.
 
I got the 800/4000 over the 1000/6000 for two main reasons.

1.)I had heard about the King 800s legendary ability to create contrast in clad knives.
2.)I bought it knowing i was going to replace it. So when i got a 1k and, in my case, a 5k i ended up with 800-1000-4000-5000. Instead of a combo 1000/6000 and the individual stones as well.

Mowgs
 
spaceconvoy said:
The reason people shell out for fancy stones is they might cut faster, dish slower, feel better, make mud, or are splash and go. They'll make the process of sharpening easier or more enjoyable, but you'll get the same results (unless you want to split hairs, literally and/or figuratively).
Click to expand...

That's not true. Different stones of the same numerical grit can create different edges; certain stones work better on certain steels.
 
if youre low on money just go with king stones, you will get great results, as long as you practice and use proper technique. i must say though, that the variety of knifes to choose from increases in the $140-160 range and usually the overall quality of these knives are much improved too. sugimoto wa gyuto is pretty cheap and stainless, and may fit in your price range i believe. those wa handle artifex knives seem kind of short almost sujihiki looking, i wouldnt enjoy using a profile like that as an all arounder.
 
mhlee said:
That's not true. Different stones of the same numerical grit can create different edges; certain stones work better on certain steels.
Click to expand...

The certain stones/certain steels thing is effectively the same as saying 'speed'. In practice, you might get a keener edge off a Chosera 1k than a King 1k, but that's because extra time spent on the King 1k will magnify imperfect technique, and mud buildup will subtly round the edge. In theory you could have perfect technique, keep flushing the surface with water, and get the same results.

If you're talking about stones with a range of different grit sizes, or abrasives that break down while sharpening, then that's not the same grit... If you're talking about the particular shape of the abrasive (jagged diamonds vs rounded garnets at the extreme ends), then you're technically correct, but the majority of synthetic waterstones are made with aluminum oxide.

So like I said, same results unless you want to split hairs :)
 
spaceconvoy said:
The certain stones/certain steels thing is effectively the same as saying 'speed'. In practice, you might get a keener edge off a Chosera 1k than a King 1k, but that's because extra time spent on the King 1k will magnify imperfect technique, and mud buildup will subtly round the edge. In theory you could have perfect technique, keep flushing the surface with water, and get the same results.

If you're talking about stones with a range of different grit sizes, or abrasives that break down while sharpening, then that's not the same grit... If you're talking about the particular shape of the abrasive (jagged diamonds vs rounded garnets at the extreme ends), then you're technically correct, but the majority of synthetic waterstones are made with aluminum oxide.

So like I said, same results unless you want to split hairs :)
Click to expand...

Your response includes numerous inconsistent statements.

Want to try again and back your statements up with some facts?
 
At this point I think getting a King combo would be great for Guyskr to learn on and not worry about the different stones that are available until his sharpening technique has improved.
 
guyskr said:
Hey everybody, I'm just about to buy my knife, and I found this one: http://yhst-27988581933240.stores.yahoo.net/aritsugu-astyle-240mm-blade-wa-gy240.html
Does anyone here have any expirence with this brand? There aren't much info, but all I could find was good.
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I have one.

It is very short at the heel - 44 mm - where most 240 wa-gyutos are 50 mm or more. If you want a gyuto that narrow, great. Otherwise ...

The stock handle is of poor quality, and, at least on mine, there was a gap where the tang entered the handle that would allow water to enter. (I have since had mine rehandled by Mike Henry.)

These knives gained a reputation when users altered the geometry to 90/10 or more to get an extremely acute edge. Of course, steering can become an issue to work around with a geometry like that. If you maintain the stock geometry, it is just an average performer.

Although a decent performing knife, I think there are better ones for the same or less money. Have you looked at the Gesshin Uraku? Less money and comes with a saya, an option that will cost another $29 for the Aritsugu saya.

http://www.japaneseknifeimports.com...u/gesshin-uraku-240mm-stainless-wa-gyuto.html
 
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