I don't have the ability to draw a picture at the moment, but a rounded shoulder well away from the edge is more cosmetic than anything else, but rounding the bevel up to the edge gives you an apex with a rounded profile, not a straight sided "v", which is required to cut well. Imagine the edge looking like a Gothic arch - gonna be hard to cut much of anything with it.
If that Forgecraft has been maintained with a steel for many years, which is quite possible, even with a clean apex you may have a knife rather thick behind the edge and it won't cut well -- in firm materials like carrots the edge will not actually cut, the blade can be thick enough that once you start cutting you are wedging the food apart with the fat blade and the edge is not in contact anymore, it's suspended in a crack. Cut a thick slice from a carrot, if it crunches instead of smoothly slicing, the knife is too fat.
The cure for that is to re-grind the knife blade thinner from about half way down from the spine to very near the edge. This is called "thinning" in this neck of the woods, and old knives with a lot of use often need it. In fact some knives greatly benefit from thinning when brand new.
Stick with decent quality steel for learning to sharpen, you are very unlikely to do anything to a knife that cannot be fixed unless you use very coarse stones with excessive vigor at very bad angles. Low quality soft stainless cannot be sharpened to decent edge that will last more than a few cuts, and behaves differently on the stones. You wont' learn much that's really useful but can develop bad habits.
A Tojiro DP gyuto 210 mm long costs less than $60 on Amazon. A 180 is less. Either will be a perfectly adequate knife, and is sharp enough out of the box you will be able to tell if you are getting it sharper or not. Very decent knives, not that difficult to sharpen well, and cheap enough you won't feel a great loss if you never quite get it right.
Peter
