grinding down the bolster

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yes, you can. Make sure you wrapp the blade so, you don't scratch it up and go slow and easy. and actually if you use the finer drum sander it will work cleaner and better then the grinfing stone attachment.

Cool. I'll save it up until I have some idea of what I'm doing (noob :) ).
 
I only had mphim remove it completely, as I was converting it into a slicer. This is what the grind looked like when rescued it. It's the same idea tho, meaning grind it down so the edge is still servicable with out the finger guard getting in the way.

MZlOQ.jpg
One of the knives I have is a soft stainless chefs knife that looks somewhat like the one on the picture. In particular, there is an area of blade that will have to be removed to match up with the main body of the knife. How would you go about evening up the blade? Sandpaper on a stone?

If fixing this is an advanced technique I could put it off until I have more experience. I suspect that the knife is worth less than what it would cost to have a pro work on it.
 
Picture please.
The links I posted first are to picassa images, but don't display correctly (although if you open them in a new window they work). Here's another attempt. Sorry for the confusion.

Here are pictures of two knives of mine that seem to have this problem. The black handles knife is a Tramontia. The brown handled knife is a Mundial.

IMG_20130102_015835.jpg


IMG_20130102_020221.jpg


IMG_20130102_020245.jpg
 
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I've done a lot of these (just like lots of us here), and my advice is to also take the belly portio back by the same amoun as you need to get the finger guard to meet up with the bevel. In other words, if you have to remove 3mm of height from the guard, do the same to the rest of the edge.
 
I agree with lefty. If you don't bring down the belly, you risk loosing your flat spot at the heel and having it curve upwards. Mistake I've made the first few times.
 
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