Help me understand please

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can you add pictures of both sides of the bevel? When I purchase from a new maker I like to see a shot of choil and both sides of the bevel AFTER they have sharpened it. To me a proper bevel should be tiny, basically ground to or close to a zero edge then a micro bevel. If I see a large bevel it can tell me the knife was too thick prior to sharpening and could affect performance. Obviously this is a all guess until I have used a knife but this has served me well.
 
Unexpected steering can indeed be related to inadequate grinding, but is much more likely to occur with a fat blade behind the edge. Other factors: sharpening with protruding shoulders, causing unnecessary friction. You normally want to balance friction on both sides at the lowest possible level. And user's technique: a firm hand as pupils learn at our vocational education is sure to cause unexpected and even dangerous steering. Loosen your grip. Most of the time I see a combination of factors.
 
I am out and about right now but got some eyebleach for the avatar.

He messaged me and said he builds knives for how he uses them. He wants something that will break down turkey/chicken necks, behead fish, and slice and onion. It isnt a knife for "delicate" work.
 
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Weird has been the word I've been using.it cuts, but the tactile feedback is weird, how the knife cuts is weird. I think it would be sturdy enough to do some necks or smaller bones without a problem. I don't think I'd want it as my main knife but it is made to break down small animals and game if need be. He said he made a knife that he'd use and those are his needs. I may eventually thin it, probably; however, I don't have anything this robust either.
 
From what I'm seeing, it's full convex. That means there is no real edge bevel. The primary grind just curves down on each side to an "edge". If you ever see a Bark River outdoor knife they employ the same grind. It's also the basic grind premise of a splitting maul.

I'm personally not a fan. The idea is to provide a robust edge but that is hotly debated in some circles. Whether they do or not, what is not in question is that they make for a tick edge. They're also tricky to sharpen and maintain the original grind. Lots of people use sandpaper on soft backing like a mouse pad.

Maybe that's not the case here but that's what it looks like to me.
 
HumbleHomeCook said:
From what I'm seeing, it's full convex. That means there is no real edge bevel. The primary grind just curves down on each side to an "edge". If you ever see a Bark River outdoor knife they employ the same grind. It's also the basic grind premise of a splitting maul.

I'm personally not a fan. The idea is to provide a robust edge but that is hotly debated in some circles. Whether they do or not, what is not in question is that they make for a tick edge. They're also tricky to sharpen and maintain the original grind. Lots of people use sandpaper on soft backing like a mouse pad.

Maybe that's not the case here but that's what it looks like to me.
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My akitomo is ground like this. It's fun to have a J-knife where don't have to be delicate. It's the only knife i’d be comfortable putting right up on bone when breaking down proteins.
 
Logan A. said:
My akitomo is ground like this. It's fun to have a J-knife where don't have to be delicate. It's the only knife i’d be comfortable putting right up on bone when breaking down proteins.
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I often use a shirogami petty or aogami ko-funayuki to break down chickens. They are both thin but the only time I'm cautious is cutting off the wing tips.

EDIT: @Logan A. I should clarify I'm not cutting through bones. Just along them and through joints.
 
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Logan A. said:
What makers are the petty and funayuki you use?
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https://knifejapan.com/okahide-hamono-kitchen-mini-115mm/
https://knifejapan.com/kawatsu-hamono-funayuki-bocho-120mm-aogami-2/
I like them both very much but I really like the little funayuki. It's a really handy knife. I did get a tiny edge deflection on it going through a wing tip. I'd done several before but this one I was a bit off and I forced things. Sharpened right out but it did make me more careful with it for that sort of thing. I debone legs and such with both and go through the larger joints with no issues.

I guess the Okahide is in aogami as well. I was thinking it was shirogami.
 
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HHC have you gotten any larger knives from there? There are several gyutos and a takenoko nakiri that I've had in the cart but I never pulled the trigger. I've been wanting to try some Munetoshi as well.

I will keep the "santoku" as-is right now. I think it could have a complimentary position in the stable. Like Logan said, it's a nice option to have a knife that isn't delicate.
 
pitted_soul said:
HHC have you gotten any larger knives from there? There are several gyutos and a takenoko nakiri that I've had in the cart but I never pulled the trigger. I've been wanting to try some Munetoshi as well.

I will keep the "santoku" as-is right now. I think it could have a complimentary position in the stable. Like Logan said, it's a nice option to have a knife that isn't delicate.
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I'm afraid I don't know the maker or where you got it. I'm just judging off your pictures. Was it Japanese Natural Stones?

Or are you asking about Knife Japan?

I've bought a lot of knives from KJ. MIchael is awesome. :)

Have a browse through this thread:
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/knife-japan-whats-notable-worth-buying-etc.65378/
Munetoshi is going to always be a good call in my book.
 
It is a domestic maker 3rd Hill Customs. His heat treat seems pretty good. He is very practiced and excellent at differential heat treatments. The handle is well done and he chose some excellent materials. The mango just moves in the light like a wave and the bolster is GM fordite. The F&F is solid too.

I suggested some more detailed website information with dimensions, more pics, and design philosophy. He's working on some that are more performance oriented and i guess a little thinner with an upcoming line.

I have swwn that KnifeJapan thread and even emailed Michael. His legendary customer service was on full display. I was wanting a small cleaver esque knife. I ended up going another direction but I plan on getting something else from there.

Speaking of JNS, I've been eyeing some Munetoshis. They sound like a high value and quite satisfying proposition.
 
pitted_soul said:
It is a domestic maker 3rd Hill Customs. His heat treat seems pretty good. He is very practiced and excellent at differential heat treatments. The handle is well done and he chose some excellent materials. The mango just moves in the light like a wave and the bolster is GM fordite. The F&F is solid too.

I suggested some more detailed website information with dimensions, more pics, and design philosophy. He's working on some that are more performance oriented and i guess a little thinner with an upcoming line.

I have swwn that KnifeJapan thread and even emailed Michael. His legendary customer service was on full display. I was wanting a small cleaver esque knife. I ended up going another direction but I plan on getting something else from there.

Speaking of JNS, I've been eyeing some Munetoshis. They sound like a high value and quite satisfying proposition.
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Well, as of right now I have one 210 gyuto left (and my longest) and it's a Munetoshi. :) The Sanjo style which also includes makers like Toyama, Yoshikane, Shindo, etc. is known for thicker spines and thin edges.
 
pitted_soul said:
It is a domestic maker 3rd Hill Customs. His heat treat seems pretty good. He is very practiced and excellent at differential heat treatments. The handle is well done and he chose some excellent materials. The mango just moves in the light like a wave and the bolster is GM fordite. The F&F is solid too.

I suggested some more detailed website information with dimensions, more pics, and design philosophy. He's working on some that are more performance oriented and i guess a little thinner with an upcoming line.

I have swwn that KnifeJapan thread and even emailed Michael. His legendary customer service was on full display. I was wanting a small cleaver esque knife. I ended up going another direction but I plan on getting something else from there.

Speaking of JNS, I've been eyeing some Munetoshis. They sound like a high value and quite satisfying proposition.
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I'm definitely holding onto my Munetoshi. Punches way above it's price point.
 
A suggestion, this is something I have done for years. Get a Micrometer, you don't have to purchase a Starett or Mitutoyo. You can purchase reasonably priced digital models that are plenty good enough. Use one to take precision measurements of the knives you like. With these measurements, you have something to talk to your knife maker about.
 
I need to get one regardless.

He said he'd thin it out for me should I want it. I have several good knives with thin edges so I figured I'll keep this knife the way it was designed and see how I like it. It's a good compliment to my other ones. If this was my only or main "knife", it would be a different story.
 
Okahide sabaki is my main butcher knife for general sabaki stuff, breaking down chickens, trimming briskets or pork shoulders and such. Good steel, great factory edge, tough, all around I'm so happy with it. Even doubles as a petty. Probably gonna get a kitchen mini like HHC too
 
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