Ideas for first 240 Gyuto upgrade.

[Marko Tsourkan]

I don't think there are problems so to speak with Devin knives more than you would get with other makers' knives, including the likes of Carter or Shigefusa. My Shigefusa gyuto had a dip in the edge and required a little stone work which I accepted as a characteristic of a hand-made knife.

I have seen more knives than most, bar Dave, and found very few knives that can truly be considered flawless. Every Takeda I have seen would have not made the cut in my opinion, yet they seem to be as popular as ever. I have also seen Kramer that was near flawless in finish, but the edge was not as thin as on most knives (it will be harder to put your edge on it) and at $150 per inch, it'd better be near perfect. The point I am making here - one can find imperfection on every hand-made knife.

I have never seen a bent DT knife, I don't believe it would have left the shop in that condition and it is one of those things that one can't overlook.

M

 

[geezr]

from what you describe about what you want i would recommend the 240mm wa-gyuto Masamoto KS. you get a tremendous value and they are a bit more substantial than a "laser" but you still get a thinner knife that can work very well as an everyday go-to knife. i think if i were to ever get a 240 gyuto again, i would go for this as well. it will come in a little under budget as well.

240mm gyuto I have - edge length from tip to heel:
Masamoto KS = 257mm
Konosuke HD = 235mm

both great knives!

 

[Citizen Snips]

240mm gyuto I have - edge length from tip to heel:
Masamoto KS = 257mm
Konosuke HD = 235mm

both great knives!

i agree with your last statement. the OP requested a knife that does not have to be a laser as there is a desire for a more substantial knife. the OP also stated that he/she already owns a konosuke suji. i would imagine if there isn't an immediate desire for a konosuke, then something else should be in order. i personally only use my 3 konosuke knives and think they are absolutely fantastic and far better than any other knives i have been able to put my hands on (i admit its not as many knives as some people here have used, owned or own buts its still quite a few). that being said i think the best suggestion would be the masamoto.

 

[JeffS]

Thanks everyone for you input! I'll have to post the final purchase here when I make it.

 

[TDj]

i kind of miss aritusugu a-types. ain't no love for it for a LONG time. But the 240 is not as hefty as its 270 brother - and while it's no "lazer", it's spine thickness if I recall is not THAT far off of suisin/tad. if i had to pick a second gyuto to "back up" my 270(260ish) konosuke, i think i'd go 240 A-type.

(oh, and i'd send it to dave for an initial sharpening ... he did my HD for me and it's pretty scary - i can only imagine with that higher level sharpening would have done ...)

 

[Dubsy]

Have you considered the Misono Swedish Carbon?

They're EXTREMELY reactive, even with a patina (relatively). and honestly, ive seen no difference in edge retention and the edge they can handle between the Swedish Carbon series and the UX10, only the UX10 is guaranteed rustPROOF, not just resistant

ive had a Misono UX10 240mm gyuto for about a year, and i wouldnt even consider replacing it. i havent used a Devin Thomas, or a konosuke, but you should really look into the UX10 line. they're extraordinarily comfortable, gorgeous, and can take a retardedly sharp edge, and hold it for weeks. plus, its $327 amost everywhere, so its in youre price range.

 

[Lefty]

I have the swede and it holds a great edge, but doesn't get quite as sharp as white 1, but seems to be on par with white 2 in terms of sharpness.
I recently thinned it a fair bit, so I could get better performance, and it's really singing now. I have a very steep bevel on the left side, and about 12* on the right.
I wouldn't discount them because of reactivity either...i've forced a patina and I have only had minor transference on tomatoes. They gave off a slight canned taste even though they were garden fresh. I have never had an issue with onions or garlic, etc. Maybe I just got lucky, but I doubt it.
If you can ever find a used one, or you want a good working knife, they're great. If you're thinking lazer, think again.

 

[Dubsy]

i know its off topic, but i keep seeing references to "lazer" knives, and im just wondering what it means.

 

[SpikeC]

:jumpy:
They have one of those red dot sights to help you keep your cut on line!

 

[UglyJoe]

Har har har.

It's a generic term for a knife with a very thin geometry, Usually it's applied to knives that are thin from spine all the way to the edge. Sometimes you'll hear someone talk about a knife being thick but laseresque, which simply implies that due to the geometry of the knife it cuts like it's thinner than it actually is. This usually refers to knives with some kind of convex grind.

 

[Dubsy]

really? do they make meat hammers with c4 in the head, too??

 

[SpikeC]

Har har har.

It's a generic term for a knife with a very thin geometry, Usually it's applied to knives that are thin from spine all the way to the edge. Sometimes you'll hear someone talk about a knife being thick but laseresque, which simply implies that due to the geometry of the knife it cuts like it's thinner than it actually is. This usually refers to knives with some kind of convex grind.

Well, I guess it could be considered that as well..........................

 

[UglyJoe]

Hah. I just had an image of Dr. Evil in my head - "All I wanted was some frickin' gee-ew-toes with frickin lazerbeams attached to them, ok!"

 

[EdipisReks]

Har har har.

It's a generic term for a knife with a very thin geometry, Usually it's applied to knives that are thin from spine all the way to the edge. Sometimes you'll hear someone talk about a knife being thick but laseresque, which simply implies that due to the geometry of the knife it cuts like it's thinner than it actually is. This usually refers to knives with some kind of convex grind.

or a knife with an extreme taper.