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So what you guys thing about edge retention comparison of Workhorse and Standart Kato?

My Standart Kato Gyuto 240 (seems to be Shiro 2) has an obvious much better edge retention them my 270 Workhorse ("mystery steel"). May got something to do with higher impact due to the heavier blade, but i am much more happy with my standart one, it just feels like a nice little Petty in my hands....... (used too work with 290mm+ gyutos).

Greets Sebastian.
 
Quick trace of Workhorse vs. Standard. Apologies for not having multiple colors of pen/pencil.

Emotos are the same height.

vbvOjpR.jpg
 
Bang on Mikey. That's one of my main observations. Standard is also finer tipped and thinner behind the edge.
 
Sharpchef said:
So what you guys thing about edge retention comparison of Workhorse and Standart Kato?

My Standart Kato Gyuto 240 (seems to be Shiro 2) has an obvious much better edge retention them my 270 Workhorse ("mystery steel"). May got something to do with higher impact due to the heavier blade, but i am much more happy with my standart one, it just feels like a nice little Petty in my hands
Click to expand...

I've been thinking differently, that my normal Kato doesn't hold the edge as long as the workhorses, but it's also a bit less chippy.
 
Thanks for the pic Mike!

I'd never noticed before, but the workhorse profile is essentially the same as my Mizuno (which is my absolute favourite profile).

If only Maxim would or could take a custom order for a left-handed version...
 
Badgertooth said:
Bang on Mikey. That's one of my main observations. Standard is also finer tipped and thinner behind the edge.
Click to expand...

+1

The workhorse has a flat spot that is maybe 1/3rd of the blade while the original has over half the blade.
 
MAS4T0 said:
Thanks for the pic Mike!

I'd never noticed before, but the workhorse profile is essentially the same as my Mizuno (which is my absolute favourite profile).

If only Maxim would or could take a custom order for a left-handed version...
Click to expand...

I haven't looked too closely but I don't think mine is that asymmetric, though not being a lefty I'm unsure how much it matters. Sounds like your mizuno is perfect for a lefty though!
 
mikedtran said:
+1

The workhorse has a flat spot that is maybe 1/3rd of the blade while the original has over half the blade.
Click to expand...

Mike, This may be true but that doesn't mean it isn't equally adept at push cutting. I used to think super flat was most desirable, but over time and with different knives, 've learned to appreciate a gentle belly more and more. Still needs to be a flat knife overall though.
 
I'll look at mine. the damascus is thinner but I haven't really looked at the flat spot. The damascus is thinner and is a noticeably better cutter than the workhorse or standard though...
 
I got my 210 workhorse a few days ago and it is a great cutter. I haven't had time to put it through it paces yet since we have had a very light menu after the holidays. It does seem to tarnish (or patina) very easily and I was wondering what you guys do with the finish? Let it patina or use bar keepers friend (or something else)?
 
preizzo said:
Warm Proteins are better!
Chicken, beef, Lamb work really good
Click to expand...

Thanks I'll give it try - one thing I already know is that this Kato is going to be my go to knife. I may also get a 240mm Kato Gyuto as well in the future and might have to think about selling my T-F and Konosuke HD2 Gyuto's sometime.
 
Jack, Grab some Flitz metal polish as it will both remove the patina and leave a protective residue that will prevent corrosion until you use at again. BKF will move patina, but then when you wash it with water, you start the oxidation process all over. Yes can neutralize BKF with baking soda, but it will be super reactive next time you use it. Give the metal a sniff. If its reactive, it will have a strong smell, as patina grown, the smell will decrease, but still be present.

I just cleaned and polished my while kit including two Kato W. that has patina, and they came out as new. One important thing to remember is to polish the blade with the grind marks. If their perpendicular to the spine, you'll have to wipe across the blade in short strokes. From spine to edge, spine edge, spine to edge... Wipe to the point that you can't see any streaks of Flitz, then switch to another clean cotton lint free (non-paper) towel to polish the blade. At this point its ok to wipe from handle to tip too.


jacko9 said:
I got my 210 workhorse a few days ago and it is a great cutter. I haven't had time to put it through it paces yet since we have had a very light menu after the holidays. It does seem to tarnish (or patina) very easily and I was wondering what you guys do with the finish? Let it patina or use bar keepers friend (or something else)?
Click to expand...
 
Mucho Bocho said:
Jack, Grab some Flitz metal polish as it will both remove the patina and leave a protective residue that will prevent corrosion until you use at again. BKF will move patina, but then when you wash it with water, you start the oxidation process all over. Yes can neutralize BKF with baking soda, but it will be super reactive next time you use it. Give the metal a sniff. If its reactive, it will have a strong smell, as patina grown, the smell will decrease, but still be present.

I just cleaned and polished my while kit including two Kato W. that has patina, and they came out as new. One important thing to remember is to polish the blade with the grind marks. If their perpendicular to the spine, you'll have to wipe across the blade in short strokes. From spine to edge, spine edge, spine to edge... Wipe to the point that you can't see any streaks of Flitz, then switch to another clean cotton lint free (non-paper) towel to polish the blade. At this point its ok to wipe from handle to tip too.
Click to expand...

Thanks - I'll get some Flitz and I can see what you mean about the grind marks of the finish. The Kato seems to be more reactive than any other of my carbon knives and I would like to see it become a stable patina over time.

Jack
 
Flitz definitely will remove patina, polish, and leave a protective layer/residue. Though I wonder is that residue food safe? Flitz has a pretty strong chemical small to me.
 
mikedtran said:
Flitz definitely will remove patina, polish, and leave a protective layer/residue. Though I wonder is that residue food safe? Flitz has a pretty strong chemical small to me.
Click to expand...
You mention countertops, appliances, and serving pieces; Is Flitz safe to use on surfaces in contact with food?
Yes, Flitz Polish is completely non-toxic. It has USDA approval to use on surfaces in a food preparation area. Flitz can be safely used on serving pieces, such as silverware, without any danger. After polishing, just wash the piece in warm soapy water and dry off as usual. The Flitz will not leave any flavor or smell behind.
Click to expand...
Looks like the polish is food safe. There are probably some solvents in there that evaporate away, but I don't know for sure. The soapy water suggests the film left behind is an oil.
 
It turns out that I had a container of Flitz in my shop and yes - It stinks but it does clean the blades very nicely. I had to be careful to remember to go with the grind marks on my Kato Workhorse.
 
Smurfmacaw said:
I'll look at mine. the damascus is thinner but I haven't really looked at the flat spot. The damascus is thinner and is a noticeably better cutter than the workhorse or standard though...
Click to expand...

tjangula said:
Interesting… I'm quite certain my Damascus is thicker than the workhorse. Hopefully my callipers show up too
Click to expand...

Here's my 210 JNS Damascus gyuto and 210 JNS workhorse gyuto:
1DA5DB18-98D7-444C-899D-1B4CCE424F01_zpshobqowre.jpg


I also took some calliper measurements on the spine (where the Xs are). I don't normally go to two decimal places or round to the nearest 0.05mm, as such there was a time when it was gong all over the place… still gives a decent idea though.

I hereby vote that mikedtran sells me his 210 standard Kasumi gyuto to add a third to the the pic lol ;-)
 
Take into account that prices across the board are going up; Kato san is nursing a back injury and is dialling down production and he has no apprentice. This might be the new normal.
 
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