New Knife Types in Works

[Marko Tsourkan]

320mm scimitar
300mm bread Knife
135mm honesuki/Petty & 150mm honesuki (both single-beveled)



Eventually, I will offer both a scimitar and a bread knife in a smaller size as well.

 

[brainsausage]

Very interested in the scimitar, and honesuki. Will there be prototype passarounds with these by chance?

 

[Marko Tsourkan]

The profile in the picture is a hybrid between Dexter scimitar and another one (had no name, but definitely US made). I am going to do some research on the optimal thickness and grind, so I hope that the final product will live up to the expectations.

Scimitar a harder knife to make and I don't have time to make a passaround knife with all the work that I am already behind. In fact, I am not sure I will be doing passarounds past the 260mm gyuto.

M

 

[Dream Burls]

Exciting stuff. Will the bread knife be serrated?

 

[Marko Tsourkan]

Yes, there will be serrations on the bread knife. Serrations will be matched to a ceramic rod diameter, so the knife can be resharpened. The knife will be for either left or right handle use (side on which serrations are cut).

M

 

[Marko Tsourkan]

I updated Stock Knife Survey Form to include new types of knives. If interested, please chime in. Thank you.

http://www.tsourkanknives.com/index.php/surveys

 

[Jmadams13]

The bread knife sounds interesting. Can't wait to see the finished prototype. As a baker, have a soft spot for good working bread knives.

Joe

 

[Marko Tsourkan]

Will work on the new profile honesukis in the next day or two. Still doing some research on a bread knife and need to put in time to practice shaping Western handles, but it's all in the pipeline.

M

 

[Jmadams13]

Thanks for the update. If you need any input on the bread, let me know. Is also be happy to give it a test run when ready *wink wink* lol

 

[Marko Tsourkan]

Bread and scimitar are harder to make, so I will have to price them differently and there is unlikely that I will pass-around them.

M

 

[Marko Tsourkan]

Scimitar is already heat treated, will start working on it shortly.

Neck knives I am still tweaking design. What do you guys think of these? They will have 3" of the cutting edge (7-7.25" total lengh), will be made of carbon and stainless damascus (DT and JT), will have mokume bolsters (black area on templates) and probably ironwood scales with mokume bolts. They will be full tang knives and will come with kydex sheath. Will have work out details for sheaths as well, but probably you will see some color.

M

 

[CanadianMan]

I really like the design of the slimmer handle, and by the sounds of the materials you are using, it is going to be one stunning neck knife. I will be getting one of these for sure! same with the scimitar I really like the profile

 

[Marko Tsourkan]

I really like the design of the slimmer handle, and by the sounds of the materials you are using, it is going to be one stunning neck knife. I will be getting one of these for sure! same with the scimitar I really like the profile

The bottom neck knife (in the last picture) can have a slimmer handle but in this particular shape. It feels quite comfortable in the hand, as the handle on the other neck knife.

Blade profile is inspired by a drop point - my favorite of the hunting knife profiles.

M

 

[markenki]

They look great. Drop point is also my favorite. I think I prefer the fatter handle.

 

[xuz]

Neck knives look good.

For me, I prefer the blade profile of the 1 (i.e. blade's heel/belly being parallel to the handle axis),
and handle shape of 2 (fuller grip at the center of the palm).


Index finger choil is something I've learned to like on a neck knife.
I've got a Carter, and I find that despite it's extreme ergonomics, it's a really terribly designed knife in practice.
1) Hollow grind. If you try to dig one through anything thick with resistance, it just gets stuck.
2) Hammered kurouchi finish. Compounding to the hollow grind, anything that might catch the material you are trying to cut will grind the blade to a screeching halt. You are constantly trying to free the blade from the material you are trying to cut. These two combined, makes it one of the worst designed knife I've personally owned and used.

I guess for me, a neck knife by design, should put pragmatism first and aesthetics second.
I think something like 3 inch blade, made with high Rockwell rating, and full flat or slightly convexed grind is required at the basics level. You can have other peripheral embellishments like opting for drop point or having false edge, but those, in my opinion make only minor differences. So far, your knives are looking good.

 

[Marko Tsourkan]

Neck knives look good.

For me, I prefer the blade profile of the 1 (i.e. blade's heel/belly being parallel to the handle axis),
and handle shape of 2 (fuller grip at the center of the palm).


Index finger choil is something I've learned to like on a neck knife.
I've got a Carter, and I find that despite it's extreme ergonomics, it's a really terribly designed knife in practice.
1) Hollow grind. If you try to dig one through anything thick with resistance, it just gets stuck.
2) Hammered kurouchi finish. Compounding to the hollow grind, anything that might catch the material you are trying to cut will grind the blade to a screeching halt. You are constantly trying to free the blade from the material you are trying to cut. These two combined, makes it one of the worst designed knife I've personally owned and used.

I guess for me, a neck knife by design, should put pragmatism first and aesthetics second.
I think something like 3 inch blade, made with high Rockwell rating, and full flat or slightly convexed grind is required at the basics level. You can have other peripheral embellishments like opting for drop point or having false edge, but those, in my opinion make only minor differences. So far, your knives are looking good.

Thanks for your feedback, please keep it coming.

The neck knives are going to be thin knives - 3-2.7mm over the heel. They will be thinly ground, and it's going to be a full grind (edge to spine), not partial, and basically I will grind them as I do my kitchen knives to about .005 on the edge.

Hardness is going to be 62-63RC, steels and heat treatment will be to maximize wear resistance.

These will be hand-finished and polished to 1000 grit.

The radius at the heel is for ease of sharpening.

 

[Paradox]

Stealing the pic that xuz posted. I agree with him on the grind. BUT my preference is backwards to his. I'd want handle shape 1 wih blade shape 2 but that is like splitting hairs as the blade shapes are quite similar. I'll be in for one for sure.

 

[xuz]

63rc would be simply amazing for any EDC.


A further note:
This is so minor as to not even warrant a change in current design,
but if you would make a different type of EDC knife in the future,
I would consider adding a finger guard.

Many guys that carry EDC knives sometimes use them to perform piercing/stabbing motions.
(For defensive purposes, or for stabbing into a perp's sofa to find hidden cocaine etc.)
There's alway the risk that, especially when hands get sweaty or slippery,
the hand could slip past the handle and run right over the blades.
These injuries are surprisingly common.
So some kind of safety feature involving guard/choil would be a nice addition that adds to the public appeal.

 

[Pensacola Tiger]

63rc would be simply amazing for any EDC.


A further note:
This is so minor as to not even warrant a change in current design,
but if you would make a different type of EDC knife in the future,
I would consider adding a finger guard.

Many guys that carry EDC knives sometimes use them to perform piercing/stabbing motions.
(For defensive purposes, or for stabbing into a perp's sofa to find hidden cocaine etc.)
There's alway the risk that, especially when hands get sweaty or slippery,
the hand could slip past the handle and run right over the blades.
These injuries are surprisingly common.
So some kind of safety feature involving guard/choil would be a nice addition that adds to the public appeal.

The choil in these neck knives by Murray Carter and Rick Lowe serve that purpose, AFAIK.

Rick

 

[Marko Tsourkan]

I am going to make another set of templates, incorporating feedback I received. Thank you and keep it coming.

I shelved a drop point hunter at the moment, but the guard can be carried over to a neck knife if necessary.

M

 

[Marko Tsourkan]

I like this neck knife blade profile, but would do handle and would grind it differently.



How much distal taper is there on a neck knife?

 

[GlassEye]

It is awesome that another great maker will be doing a neck knife, I am awaiting my first neck knife but already looking for the next. I am interested in seeing what you come up with.

 

[Lefty]

I don't carry a necker, but this one might be on my radar. I'd personally, go with "number one", but add a little bit more of a notch at the choil. They will be great, no doubt.

 

[Marko Tsourkan]

I spoke to Hoss the Boss this morning, and he gave me some very good advice. I will use it in conjunction with other advice in this thread to make a prototype. It will without a bolster at first - I want to familiarize myself with the grind before I consider using premium materials (mokume, damascus, ironwood). It will probably be in AEB-L heat treated to 62-63RC and for most wear resistance. I also need to get materials and tools for making kydex sheath. So this is going to be a a long

Thanks to all who chimed in.

M

 

[Justin0505]

IMO, that forward finger choil is a must-have for safety, functionality and comfort on a small knife that may be used hard in an emergency.
After owning a bob lum designed caly 3 and then my carter necker, I will never own an edc without one.

The choil in these neck knives by Murray Carter and Rick Lowe serve that purpose, AFAIK.

Rick

 

[Marko Tsourkan]

IMO, that forward finger choil is a must-have for safety, functionality and comfort on a small knife that may be used hard in an emergency.
After owning a bob lum designed caly 3 and then my carter necker, I will never own an edc without one.

A few questions to folks who own Carter neck knives.

Is the diameter of the forward finger choil about the same as your index finger? Would it be better if the area was notched for a bitter friction, like you see sometimes spine on straight rasors?

Also, how do yo like the Carter in terms of design, ergonomics, etc? Would it be better if the scales on the handle on the Carter extended further forward, almost to the plunge line? What is the thickness of the handle (with scales)?

M

 

[Pensacola Tiger]

A few questions to folks who own Carter neck knives.

Is the diameter of the forward finger choil about the same as your index finger?

Slightly larger, but I have small fingers.

Would it be better if the area was notched for a bitter friction, like you see sometimes spine on straight rasors?

Not in the choil area, but jimps on the spine where the thumb could get purchase would be welcome.

Also, how do yo like the Carter in terms of design, ergonomics, etc?

For a small knife, it is very comfortable in the hand. I think part of this is the handle shape, which narrows at the end and fins into my palm.

Would it be better if the scales on the handle on the Carter extended further forward, almost to the plunge line?

I think it would interfere with pinching the blade for fine work.

What is the thickness of the handle (with scales)?

Mine measures 11.65 mm at the thickest point.

Rick

 

[Don Nguyen]

Rick what's the thickness on that blade?

 

[Pensacola Tiger]

Rick what's the thickness on that blade?

The spine measures 2.8 mm at the choil area, Don.

 

[Marko Tsourkan]

Thanks, Rick -