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Masibu, I’m in the same boat for sure. Much prefer synths. I know this is off topic but I just wanted to know how the cerax 700 compares to chosera 400? Slightly more refined edge, maybe not as good feedback, equal cutting speed?
 
Speaking of stainless and naturals, my stainless blades almost never touch a stone that isn't an Aizu. Not a 1k replacement by any means but then I don't, as a home cook, really have a need to drop down to a 1k very often.

That said, I normally make the jump into naturals at or right after the 2k mark as I find most of my naka-to to be on par with or finer than that in terms of edge refinement.
 
Masibu, I’m in the same boat for sure. Much prefer synths. I know this is off topic but I just wanted to know how the cerax 700 compares to chosera 400? Slightly more refined edge, maybe not as good feedback, equal cutting speed?

Unfortunately I haven't had the luxury of using a chosera 400 but I would imagine the edge would be a bit more refined. I had actually bought it hoping to find something similar to the super stone 400 I had once upon a time. I found it to be a bit harder than the ss400 (no issues with gouging the stone) and a bit thirstier hence why I was just leaving it soaked indefinitely. Feedback is excellent for me and a brief lap with an atoma plate preps up mud reasonably quickly but non excessively so. Its a good happy medium in this respect

Once soaked it doesnt tend to need a lot more water, especially compared with a beston 500. The stone is at least twice as thick as the shapton pro 1k and maybe 1.5x the beston? I think ive written down some measurements on arrival somewhere though so I can confirm that. When I've got the time I'll put a review up and try to include comparisons to my king 1000 (its faster, harder and more resistant to gouging), shapton 1k and beston 500. It doesn't have issues with loading once its soaked but if you try to use it as a splash and go you will probably be disappointed as it will load rather easily without at least a brief dip in the pool.

As I occasionally sharpen knives for other people (mostly victorinox or something german-esque) it makes for a pretty solid work stone as I can finish their knives on this stone and jump from this to the sigma 2 or 3 for myself. I don't usually need to go lower than the 700 for my own knives once I've broken into a knife and put my own edges on however I like to have the option of something coarser for dead knives (or very poorly sharpened/over steeled/stressed knives). You can use the cerax 700 to set bevels but it takes a bit longer if you're dealing with dead knives.

I keep a norton combo stone handy in those instances so I can grind harder if required (not so useful for wide bevels though on japanese knives). As alternatives i do have a shapton 220 and a king 300 as well since giving my suehiro to a friend (along with others) for his birthday and congrats to for his new job (any excuse to buy new stones). The king 300 fills this role well however its not a soaking stone so im probably gonna look at the cerax 320 to compare to the king and my old suehiro chemical as I tend to just leave my stones soaking at work.
 
The King hyper 1k cuts faster than the Naniwa or shapton stones in that range and doesnt dish easily . Best used with a 400grit. (mine is a generic) when the the results are too slow in forth coming...

it really leaves a very decent cutting edge and better after a jump to any finishing stone..
 
The King hyper 1k cuts faster than the Naniwa or shapton stones in that range and doesnt dish easily . Best used with a 400grit. (mine is a generic) when the the results are too slow in forth coming...

it really leaves a very decent cutting edge and better after a jump to any finishing stone..

Yes. But does the hyper NOT do too well?
 
The King hyper 1k cuts faster than the Naniwa or shapton stones in that range and doesnt dish easily . Best used with a 400grit. (mine is a generic) when the the results are too slow in forth coming...

it really leaves a very decent cutting edge and better after a jump to any finishing stone..

I’m not sure I agree with that.... I’ve found it to be fast cutting and nice feeling but pretty fast dishing
 
I’m not sure I agree with that.... I’ve found it to be fast cutting and nice feeling but pretty fast dishing

I'll piggyback here, don't notice for strictly edge sharpening (don't do long 1K sharpening sessions) but it's rather obvious when doing any wide bevel. Feeling, speed, and even finish/edge are great tho.
 
I took Jon opinion when i upgraded and went with the 2k gesshin and 6 k gesshin for a finisher . I feel that carbon play really well with those and gyutos best at 2k edge for normal pro gyuto use IMHO. I wanna agree with Jon also on the King set 1k , i found it a pretty good stone with the same problem which is dishing fast . Other than that i thought that kings in general feel good for the most part and give you a very decent edge .
 
masibu, how fast is suehiro chemical 320? and how is the feedback? dishing? ive been wanting to try this one

From my experience with the chemical it seemed to be pretty hard on initial use but over time it broke down easier. I think it needs a good lapping before use to essentially grind down the "crust" on the outside. It didn't feel like it was particularly fast cutting initially but once you get deeper into the stone it muds up much easier and started cutting better.

It's nowhere near as soft/dish prone as the shapton 300 but not quite as hard as the king 300. Feedback was pretty reasonable for a coarse stone and it can take a fair bit of pressure. I doubt there would be much risk in gouging the stone unless you're doing something seriously wrong. I haven't used the stone for a long time and that was just bevel setting so my memory is a little fuzzy when it comes to wide bevels/thinning but again somewhere between the king and the shapton in cutting speed but it depends on the contact area of the blade to the stone and the pressure used.

The shapton sheds grit pretty readily with moderate force even with large contact areas (and dishes badly with bevel setting for example as it sheds grit excessively). The king doesnt shed grit nearly as easily meaning you can put more pressure onto the stone and grind more efficiently. If you sharpen with low force on a large contact area it will be less effective than the shapton though as the grit will start to round over instead of abrading. This only tends to happen if sharpening something pretty abrasion resistant though.

The suehiro is probably somewhere in the middle all round. id rate it closer to the king in terms of "dishiness" but with better feedback. The cutting speed was pretty good for me as I tend to put a fair amount of force on coarse stones when thinning otherwise it can take forever. It can also be used for removing chips etc without difficulty and dishing too much.

Over time I seem to be more drawn to soaking stones that I can leave soaked somewhere at work as opposed to splash n goes (despite how awesome some splash stones are). I also hate the sharpening stands supplied with some stones. The good splash stones are usually much more expensive and even then I find a soak helps most splash stones anyway. id rather have something durable that isnt going to die from oversoaking. The suehiro chemical was pretty much perfect in that regard (for me at least) and I do regret letting go of it a bit but I enjoy trying out different stones and finding new progressions to fill different roles/needs.

For stainless knives a full soak progression of suehiro 320 - cerax 700 - bester 2000/sigma 2000 is pretty affordable and covers most needs quite well. If you have carbon knives you may want an 8kish stone just for kicks but even that isn't required. Theres room in the bucket though to toss a sigma 8k in there as well if I ever buy one. I would try the rest of the cerax line if they didn't have stands on their stones.

I'm going to be doing some side by side comparisons in the coming weeks when i can slot in a day for my own sharpening "experiments". I'll post my findings on the forum if only for myself to look back on later. I'm waiting on k+s to restock the ginsan sukenari gyuto to order a cerax 320 at the same time for comparisons sake as well. I suspect that the cerax is probably a bit harder than the chemical and dishes less but im yet to use it.
 
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