Practice Wa Handle

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The nice thing about the horizontal drilling setup is that you can use the miter gauge for alignment and the fence for a stop. The table is adjusted to set one dimension of the hole and the gauge for the other. Everything is solid and stable. I use a forschner bit to start the hole to get it straight and true, then finish to depth with a brad point.
 
My problem with the working areas and tools here are that most everything they make is free form, naturalish looking stuff.
Not like the precision tools in my brother's cabinet shop.
I was lucky to find one of the drill presses that doesn't wobble.
Lot's of old tools from the 50's and such. Most of them look cool, work good, but not overly precise.
 
I've done that before! I've got a couple of blocks with drill bits stuck in somewhere too.:D A good bit that doesn't wander is a great help, once you know your drilling square. I like the dowel system. I've been using a brass dowel instead of wood sometimes when extra weight for balance is required. I cut the slot in the dowel with a steady hand and a 2mm disc in a 9"grinder.
 
Dont forget if its out of square getting the handle and blade in alignment will be a PITA as well
 
I will be holding off for a couple days while I catch up on things.
Then I will make attempt #2
Thanks for all the great input everyone.
 
Just a tip for those who don´t have a vise in their drill presses: turn the block being drilled at each 1/2" more or less, so you will have less of a chance of it hitting the block wall from inside. Not to be used when precision is needed obviously but it will be enough for handles.
 
i use 3/16 drill to hollow out the main and mille the back of the spacer with 3/16 or 1/4 inch end mill to within about 1/8 inch of the front of the handle then a 3/32 end mill to slot for the guard

test fit make pin hole and part grind then glue up and finishh while the handle is on the knife (jsut got to watch that you dont scratch the blade shaping the handle out
 
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