Removing stubborn Handles

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pitted_soul

pitted_soul

Filling that hole in my soul with sharp things.
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Gang,

I got a handle on a knife that I am trying to take off. I don't want to have to destroy the handle to take it off. It is an Okubo santoku with the stock handle on it. I used the block of wood + mallet method, then I cooked it for 40 mins @ 180 and it still wouldn't come off.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Corey
 
pitted_soul said:
Thanks guys, I figured there was a thread somewhere but my search game is off today. @Ok__mode_6953 prior string answered my question. Gonna save it. Thanks man!
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I actually made a small crack in an ebony handle when I tried to burn a thicccc tang in this weekend, so I had it up anyway to reread some pointers!
 
I learned a lesson on prepping the surface before adhesive application, my ferrule popped right off as I began to sand it after it had cured. It was a lucky break though, as my first tang hole was pretty damn rough. I made a new and improved ferrule, still rough, just not as rough. I hope to get the initial shaping done this evening and if I am feeling particularly froggy, get it finished.

I have ordered and handleless Yoshida Hamono Hap 40 gyuto. I went ahead and pulled the trigger but I hesitated for half a year, I couldn't find a decent review of this grind and profile. I will hopefully get my handles dialed in and use one of my nicer pieces of wood for it.

When in doubt, review the basics.
 
Don't forget to tape the whole blade (don't ask me how I know).
I use a piece of 2x4 abot 2 feet long and a 32oz hammer. Sometimes you have to hit harder than you think is necessary. Keep in mind, all you really have to do is break the bond--and so just move the handle a mm or two. Then you can ligten and just tap off.
 
McMan said:
Don't forget to tape the whole blade (don't ask me how I know).
I use a piece of 2x4 abot 2 feet long and a 32oz hammer. Sometimes you have to hit harder than you think is necessary. Keep in mind, all you really have to do is break the bond--and so just move the handle a mm or two. Then you can ligten and just tap off.
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Thank you. Yes, I am trying not to cut my fingers off in the process and learn the hard way. I thought I had some movement on it but then it seems stuck. I thought this one was going to be easier lol. I didn't get a chance to try again yesterday, I finished up the handle instead and started another, but hopefully tonight. I am not in possession of a sous vide machine, so, like a Neanderthal, I'm boiling some water.
 
pitted_soul said:
Thank you. Yes, I am trying not to cut my fingers off in the process and learn the hard way. I thought I had some movement on it but then it seems stuck. I thought this one was going to be easier lol. I didn't get a chance to try again yesterday, I finished up the handle instead and started another, but hopefully tonight. I am not in possession of a sous vide machine, so, like a Neanderthal, I'm boiling some water.
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You might want to try and identify how the handle is attached. The removal method is not the same for all. Look down the tang slot and see what's inside or around it.

If the handle is burned in without any adhesive, adding heat doesn't do a whole lot to help with removal. you simple use the piece of wood up against the front of the handle and knock it off with some firm taps of a hammer.

If the handle is attached with hot glue, then heat will help soften it up. Hot glue can usually be seen around the edges of the hole, and if you poke it with something hard like a needle or toothpick, it has a little bit of give. If you are using a boiling pot of water, take care to protect the blade itself from overheating, and dont go resting it on the bare metal pot over flame.

If the handle is attached with that white chewing gum stuff (I find often with high end sakai knives), that stuff is a pain to remove. You might get lucky with heat, but I think I have like 10% success with this method. Consider breaking the handle off.

If the handle is attached with epoxy, you can identify with the needle/toothpick, it will be rock hard if you poke it. I have not found a good way to remove epoxy outside of destroying the handle.
 
Oh also forgot to mention, sometimes I see wood filler (usually brownish color) used to close up the tang hole gap at the front of the handle. I find this most often on burn in handles. The wood filler provides no structural strength and comes right out with the rest of the blade.
 
For epoxied handles, shocking it might help also. Warm it up, put it in the freezer. Might take a few tries, or might not budge at all. Worth a shot if you want to save the handle though.
 
It is an Okubo Santoku with the house handle on it. I am not too particular on saving it, but I try to if I can.

I'll try most of these tonight until one works or I destroy the handle. Something will give. I've got a completed handle waiting on this blade.
 
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