cord_steele
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Too many good tips here. I'll be trying out all kinds of stuff.
I sometimes use waterlox to finish my blanks. Not the same as finishing a handle of course, but it works for my purpose. The only thing I would add to previous comments on it is that it is highly toxic and you need to be sure to be in a well ventilated space when using. Read the label carefully, they even mention the possibility of used rags spontaneously combusting.Anybody use waterlox?
I sometimes use waterlox to finish my blanks. Not the same as finishing a handle of course, but it works for my purpose. The only thing I would add to previous comments on it is that it is highly toxic and you need to be sure to be in a well ventilated space when using. Read the label carefully, they even mention the possibility of used rags spontaneously combusting.
Waterlox is fairly thin and would not fill anything other than maybe some superficial surface checks.For you guys using Waterlox, do you use the filler first and if so how does this stuff work? I'm interested in a product that will fill deep voids like found in woods like koa? Could the regular Waterlox cover this on it's own?
For you guys using Waterlox, do you use the filler first and if so how does this stuff work? I'm interested in a product that will fill deep voids like found in woods like koa? Could the regular Waterlox cover this on it's own?
Dave, You can fill with waterlox (assuming we're talking grain variation and not cracks/checks) but it takes a few coats before it will build enough to fill the voids if you're applying it as wipe on finish. Given drying time, this can be time consuming. When I am using waterlox on woods with more grain variation to avoid this, I'll typically do one or two coats of shellac first as a "sanding sealer." Simple enough -- just wipe them on with a lint free rag. Then maybe do a third pass with a rag that was wetted with a little extra solvent (alcohol) before the shellac to help melt and smooth the layers. The shellac dries very fast and once dried, it won't interfere with the waterlox bond.
After putting the shellac layers down, I'll sand with either a 180 or 220 grit paper to knock most of the shellac back...then waterlox goes over the top of these. This works great for porous woods and it also helps to really pop the grain on highly figured woods. I've heard of others doing similar with slower cure CA glue as a sealer (mostly turners) and getting good results
As an aside - I use the same approach if I want to add color (on furniture not for handles) to woods that absorb finish unevenly like maple or birch. The shellac creates a nice even and uniform substrate to help stains or dyes deliver more uniform color. Ultra Blonde shellac won't add much amber color if that's a concern.
If what you're describing is deeper surface checks or cracks than just grain variation - I'd spot fill the individual problems with CA glue before moving into the rest of the finishing process.
I've got a lot of experience using Waterlox on furniture. It's my favorite no-spray finish for things. If I can answer any questions, happy to.
For you guys using Waterlox, do you use the filler first and if so how does this stuff work? I'm interested in a product that will fill deep voids like found in woods like koa? Could the regular Waterlox cover this on it's own?
Excellent info, thanks!
I've been on the transition of using CA glue less or should I say just for the big holes and looking for something to seal the pores (real small to large like koa has) prior to finishing. I've tried all the usual suspects getting the best results so far from Tru-Oil's filler/sealer but the feel is so plasticky that I've sanded it off every time I've used it. Sounds like shellac is worth trying and maybe even Waterlox after that, I just want to get the sealing thing down first.
What type of shellac do you prefer?
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