Would stropping on stone basically have a similar effect as a honing rod (slowly reverse blade on a stone with light pressure). getting good angle is trickey, but for me was easier than getting my honing rod angle good.
Same here, I picked up whetstone sharpening fairly quickly/naturally but by golly I feel like I've had a stroke any time I try to hone a crappy stainless. Something just doesn't compute.Would stropping on stone basically have a similar effect as a honing rod (slowly reverse blade on a stone with light pressure). getting good angle is trickey, but for me was easier than getting my honing rod angle good.
I don't experience thickening when touching-up. The coarsest I use is Belgian Blue, and at least the dominant side is convexed, in line with the face. The last 1.5cm got refreshed when touching-up.
I would be very interested to know whether you use the Dickoron with really hard edges, say an Aogami Super @65Rc.
Would stropping on stone basically have a similar effect as a honing rod (slowly reverse blade on a stone with light pressure). getting good angle is trickey, but for me was easier than getting my honing rod angle good.
Not to argue but I've always used shaptons for my SG2 knife and I think it works fine. What in your mind is the difference with using diamond stones? Sharpening sped, feedback, the resulting edge or something else?man I do not enjoy sharpening r2 with alox, I recommend trying diamond on it for sure
Not taken as an argument, I have used alox for years on SG2 before diamond. SG2 is right on the cusp for really wanting diamonds to sharpen in terms of the mc carbide amount imo. Sharpening speed is first and foremost, and I feel the edge is definitely more aggressive off my venev 800, although usually I would finish on a chosera 3000 so not the fairest comparison. I remember it taking 10 minutes + to form a burr on my miyabi petty on my shapton glass 320 on one side, with my venev 240 it's less than 5Not to argue but I've always used shaptons for my SG2 knife and I think it works fine. What in your mind is the difference with using diamond stones? Sharpening sped, feedback, the resulting edge or something else?
God chosera 800 was my starting point and it always took forever on sg2 before I decided to drop back to something coarserChosera 800 > 3k > 2 micron diamond strop has treated me great for SG2. But I've since sold all my SG2 knives and can't compare to what the DMT diamond would have done for them.
Generally I'm not a big fan of a pull motion used to sharpen edges. Pulling the edge over any surface, a stone or a leather strop, will raise a burr. That's exactly what we want to prevent when sharpening.
I just sharpened Tadokoro SG2 I think the same, it’s definitely not as good as Ginsan or VG10 on conventional stone, very wear resistantNot taken as an argument, I have used alox for years on SG2 before diamond. SG2 is right on the cusp for really wanting diamonds to sharpen in terms of the mc carbide amount imo. Sharpening speed is first and foremost, and I feel the edge is definitely more aggressive off my venev 800, although usually I would finish on a chosera 3000 so not the fairest comparison. I remember it taking 10 minutes + to form a burr on my miyabi petty on my shapton glass 320 on one side, with my venev 240 it's less than 5
Did you ever find out who forged the blanks? Very curious on that one.I just sharpened Tadokoro SG2 I think the same, it’s definitely not as good as Ginsan or VG10 on conventional stone, very wear resistant
Nope, feels hard thoDid you ever find out who forged the blanks? Very curious on that one.
I had pretty lasery Ogata and Kobayashi blades so maybe the thinness at/behind edge helped but it was pretty fast for me both were stock removal blades, 62-63 HRC. Maybe the Shrimp God smiles upon meGod chosera 800 was my starting point and it always took forever on sg2 before I decided to drop back to something coarser
Yeah that helps a lot. This gets posted a lot but I'll link it again:I had pretty lasery Ogata and Kobayashi blades so maybe the thinness at/behind edge helped but it was pretty fast for me both were stock removal blades, 62-63 HRC. Maybe the Shrimp God smiles upon me
Interesting.God chosera 800 was my starting point and it always took forever on sg2 before I decided to drop back to something coarser
Now like I said before SG2 is on the borderline where diamonds should definitely be the play, not like they are 15v, but the vanadium content is starting to become significant where you really want something like diamond or CBN to cut them.
I'm confused by this, Why do we want to prevent getting a burr? Not sure I've seen that before. Is the first and most important step in sharpening not forming a burr? That's what I have been lead to believe over many years at least. Go until you can feel a burr then switch sides, then move on to higher grits and deburr at the end.
1k-2k stones definitely works on SG2, but going higher conventional stones just don’t do much for sg2, diamond in higher grit gives a much more aggressive edge to me.Interesting.
I mainly use Chosera 1k and while a burr isn't instantaneous, it's never been particularly tedious to sharpen SG2 on it.
I wonder whether it's stone to stone variability or perhaps just a different perspective on what constitutes "slow"?
For sure, thinness helps but even when sharpening a middleweight such as Shiro Kamo Syousin Suminagashi, the burr is not that hard to produce.
Removing the burr... now that is a different matter with SG2.
Ah interesting. Is this discussion in relation to only using pull strokes? Might have been misreading. I sharpen "normally" (or how most people sharpen) just going back and forth and don't do any special techniques. Besides checking for a burr I am not sure how I know an apex is established, also I thought you must achieve a burr to get to the apex?Yeah you're right. Many people will tell you that. The burr that forms while pulling during sharpening, so spine instead of edge leading, might be an indication to when you've established an Apex. Because the burr will only form when the Apex is established, but the burr itself is no necessity for sharpness. The Apex is. And also not for the way there. You can test if you've got an Apex either visually or with your fingernails (for example).
The theory sharpening spine leading, nor the practical result, makes much sense to me. It produces a burr no matter what grit. The finer the grit, the smaller the burr. Nevertheless, it's a burr. A fragile thin structure. Sharp, obviously, but no structural integrity. It won't have much resistance to board impact and more or less just fold. So we want to avoid it.
That's why I think one should get rid of the burr and end up with a pretty "perfect" triangle instead of a triangle with an antenna on top.
On the other hand - what would be the theoretical downside of edge leading? It makes sure that as little burr as possible forms in the first place.
Ona macroscopic level you can see what happens pretty easily. Grind a steep angle on a piece of sheet iron on the belt grinder. Edge leading and then spine leading, and compare the two. Pretty much the same happens with the knife edge I think.
To my understanding there is no argument for spine leading. Most examples I've seen either present weak arguments for it, of none at all. And if anything there are some arguments against it. But maybe you can convince me otherwise ^^.
It's actually all pretty mysterious. I ran into someone online who thought a burr was a failure. He was right, for him -- he had been trained by his butcher Dad to sneak up on the apex and get to sharp without ever raising a burr.Ah interesting. Is this discussion in relation to only using pull strokes? Might have been misreading. I sharpen "normally" (or how most people sharpen) just going back and forth and don't do any special techniques. Besides checking for a burr I am not sure how I know an apex is established, also I thought you must achieve a burr to get to the apex?
Ah interesting. Is this discussion in relation to only using pull strokes? Might have been misreading. I sharpen "normally" (or how most people sharpen) just going back and forth and don't do any special techniques. Besides checking for a burr I am not sure how I know an apex is established, also I thought you must achieve a burr to get to the apex?
Would you still personally not pay attention to burr formation when sharpening a conventional way let's say?
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