Steel easiest to de-burr

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x737

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OK, after a couple of years of using Tojiro DPs (210mm Gyuto and 150mm Petty) I am considering adding a larger Gyuto and a Nakiri to the set. VG10 gave me quite a learning curve with stubborn burr but I have pretty good idea and feel for a quality edge now. Going forward, would like to spend less time to sharpen the knife. Which steel would be relatively easier to remove burr compared to others? Is there steel that prefers snapping off instead of turning into wire edge? Thanks for advices.
 
As far as I've seen, AEB-L fo the stainless. For the cabons Swedish carbon -- whatever it may be -- used by Misono, and C75.
 
Itinomonn knives are very easy to deburr - it really makes sharpening an absolute joy.
It's the same for both carbon and stainless Itinomonns, so I think it relates to more than just type of steel.
For ease of sharpening they are highly recommended.

Lars
 
For stainless those steel I use for my Gyuto right now, Ginsanko and SANDVIK19C27 steel. Maker from Konosuke and Suisin Wa-series very easy to de-burr.
I haven't experience with carbon steel yet but White#2 should be same as Ginsanko steel also.
 
SRS-15 doesn't hardly seem to create a burr, R2 not much different, and it's likely much the same other PM steels.
 
My Kono white 1 gyuto is by far the easiest steel to sharpen and touch up in my collection
 
White #2, Takefu V2, whatever "Swedish carbon" Misono uses all have been the simplest and most labour-unintensive steels I've come across in terms of easy deburring. I haven't had the chance to spend lots of time sharpening other types of steels so my reference point is quite narrow however. On the opposite end of the spectrum for me is the stainless steels utilized by Victorinox and Global
 
Heat treat & steel combo should be the question here. Lots of steels suck to deburr from one maker yet are excellent from another.
 
I don't know about steel in general because I have had W#2 that is more stubborn than other w#2, however it is still much easier to deburr than others. What I can say is that my Gesshin Ginga is the easiest knife I own in terms of sharpening and deburring. Just a few strokes on one side will bring up the smallest burr and you can flip. A few more strokes on the other side and you can start removing that tiny burr.

I own other white number two knives as well. The next easiest is the Tojiro Shirogami followed by the Masakage Yuki. None of these are hard to sharpen or deburr but in order the of easiest to sharpen and deburr is the Ginga followed by the Tojiro and then the Yuki. Edge retention follows the other direction, though, not by much.

I would just pick a well known brand/maker that is known for its ease of sharpening and pull the trigger.
 
Lars said:
Itinomonn knives are very easy to deburr - it really makes sharpening an absolute joy.
It's the same for both carbon and stainless Itinomonns, so I think it relates to more than just type of steel.
For ease of sharpening they are highly recommended.

Lars
Click to expand...

Thanks Lars
 
rick alen said:
SRS-15 doesn't hardly seem to create a burr, R2 not much different, and it's likely much the same other PM steels.
Click to expand...

No issues 'creating' burr on VG10, it is removing it that is the PITA
 
Dave Martell said:
Heat treat & steel combo should be the question here. Lots of steels suck to deburr from one maker yet are excellent from another.
Click to expand...

Thanks Dave, I meant this when asking. And the kind of responses coming in are covering both.
 
For Itinomonns, looks like JNS only carries D-handles. Do they offer octagonal-rehandling?
 
Not fond of the knives (rather thick behind the edge, mediocre to poor edge retention), but Masahiro's MBS-26 + heat treatment is very easy to sharpen and deburr.
 
rick alen said:
SRS-15 doesn't hardly seem to create a burr, R2 not much different, and it's likely much the same other PM steels.
Click to expand...

Not sure if everyone understood my statement here. I'm not saying it is difficult to raise a burr with PM steels, it's just that they get sharp without creating much of a burr.
 
rick alen said:
Not sure if everyone understood my statement here. I'm not saying it is difficult to raise a burr with PM steels, it's just that they get sharp without creating much of a burr.
Click to expand...

But unfortunately they suck at sharpening. Very very bad feeling on the stones. Just yesterday I was reminded of that when sharpening my Takamura R2. But it is true, small burr and easy to remove.

Not like Konosuke HD2 where you still get bad feeling on the stones and a burr that is hard to remove. But stropping on felt solves also this.
 
Just remember that whatever steel type is only part of the story, what it will become will also be based on the heat treat used.

One maker can get it correct while another hoses it.
 
From my experience the easiest steel to deburr is Tanaka B2. It's ridiculously easy to get sharp too.
Sublime stuff! only OK edge retention though, but still, stuff of legends.

Others that are very easy to deburr too and also are very easy to sharpen, (but not quite Tanaka B2 easy).
Wakui W2, Shiro Kamo B2, Tanaka Ginsanko, Itinomonn (semi-) Stain-Less, Watanabe B2.

All of the above options I could recommend without hesitation. There is some very subtle differences, but not really enough to make a difference here IMO.

Some ok to sharpen and quite easy to deburr choices, but a little more work than all the above:
Tanaka VG10, Shiro Kamo R2, Takamura R2, Hap40,

Some work required:
Tojiro VG10

Pain!
...well, not that bad, but still not fun either.
Mac pro and superior, Brieto MV,
 
It is relative. On a regular basis sharpen cheap stainless for other people. Think about it that is the kind of knives most home cooks own. Some of the worst are cheap Chinese stainless cleavers.

In comparison VG10 is easy to sharpen. Mercer's & Victorinox can take a keen edge quickly. Burr removal not a problem with any of these knives.
 
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