Yes, about. I would add some belly and turn the tip in a spear point, but that will depend on your technique. When forward slicing you don't want too low a tip or you may damage both board and tip. My major problem with short knives is the little contact area with the board, causing a lot of sharpening reducing considerably its life span.
Indeed!
Using the chef's for all board work does make sense. It's the idea behind the French chef's knife, after all. But you rarely will find vintage parers and petties: all ground away.
For the fingerguard much less drastic solutions may do as well: shorten it, or have it flush with the relief bevel, or cutting off the lowest part at 45°. Removing the entire fingerguard is a kind of disfigurement I rather would avoid. Apart from that, I'm reluctant to use powered tools, both for safety and avoiding overheating.
@Ericfg These are 95%+ in-hand work for me: I'd (also) grind off the integral bolster, and I like having that slight concavity in the middle of the blade for peeling spherical items. I'd keep most of it as is, even if it means I have to spend some time sharpening the concavity portion on the edge of a stone.
Like it! A good idea not fighting for these last millimetres close to the fingerguard. Have seen it lead to an overgrind just before it, resulting eventually in a hole.
