1. Have been doing it raw ( raw hide.. rough side ) for quite some time, IF there happened to be a large burr.. it will save your smooth leather.
2. Apart from being more grabby, it will also hold whatever paste compound block you add including diamond spray
3. Been testing Horse hide vs cow hide. I am beginning to prefer the cowhide (10-12 oz, slightly thicker ) that’s the measurement that was noted on the samples that I received from my custom leather maker in NY.
4. I chance to get a section that has a softer portion, presumably form the stomach area and I like it as the knife sinks in slightly.
5. For the time being , I prefer just stropping on the raw hide.
6. Deburring: for burrs formed on 1000 grit stones and below , I prefer to deburr it on a diamond rod of about 1000 grit. The logic is that rougher stones tends to leave larger burrs. Also knives that has a stubborn burrs.. I will use the rod of suitable grit.
7. I think a lot of sharpening problems are due burr removals ; not removing or or straightening it out thus leaving a wire edge or a weak edge. That why I believe that finishing strokes for burr removal should be cutting into the stone strokes…. To cut away the burr as opposed to just flattening it out …..Just my view..
8. Having said the above, I am able to cut into the leather stroke on one side of the knife and the course side is more tolerant…
Have fun...