D. Martell Wide Bevel Sharpening

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JNS 300 grit:
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Nice to get the bevels cleaned up a bit, but straight stone finishes are a bit aggressive.

Here's a nice 240grit on fabric substrate:
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I need to get more fabric-backed stuff...

Thanks. It looks like I'll be staying with "too shiny" 'til I can afford a nice natural finishing stone!
One thing I've been trying just a little bit of and will probably do more of in the future is polishing on loaded balsa. I've been mixing grits on a few pieces and have gotten some variable results, but sometimes it comes out pretty excellent. Mixing 800/red aoto/naniwa 4k slurries on a piece of balsa produced a light misty finish on the cladding of a Carter, with some scratches from 800 visible...going to pick up some more balsa and try dedicated medium-high grit slurry loads.
 
Xoo, Thanks for the FB, though I'm not sure how repeatable your process is. What is this fabric backed stuff you speak ok? I have several WB knives that I'm trying perfect a technique too. So far I'm able get a mirror polish no problem, but is shows too many scratches for me. I've heard that 800 is a nice grit to finishes with. Considering a belt sander to be honest.
 
Xoo, Thanks for the FB, though I'm not sure how repeatable your process is. What is this fabric backed stuff you speak ok? I have several WB knives that I'm trying perfect a technique too. So far I'm able get a mirror polish no problem, but is shows too many scratches for me. I've heard that 800 is a nice grit to finishes with. Considering a belt sander to be honest.
I was going through some sandpaper drawers at a local general store and the 240-grit stuff turned out to not be paper, but a stiff fabric that bcame very supple when wet. Stuff stretches and seems to lose its bite quickly, with some of the grit forming slurry. Even when used a lot, it still does a decent job of improving the finish off the 300. I think it's even better than my JNS 800 grit.

Mirror finish is great for practicality, but chasing down scratches can be a big problem.
 
Pete, I think it's tempting to claim that one might lose some food release, but under almost all circumstances the variation in geometry is subtle and shallow enough (unless there is an intentional compound grind which is usually much deeper) that it likely has no real effect on food. Near-edge convexity, bevel polish, and the primary shinogi are much stronger influences on sticking, in my opinion. Raising the shinogi too much can affect things by reducing its angle (allowing food to slide over more easily) and increasing surface area that contacts the food directly. Otherwise, I doubt flattening (and some convexing if applicable) are in any way harmful to the cutting ability of the knife.

Further, knife geometry can be wildly inconsistent even from the same maker, such as the Carter shown. This is usually not extremely nuanced stuff.

Rami, most knives like this operate on relatively simple geometry, unless we talk about convexing near the edge. There are some knives that implement a hollow (accidentally or intentionally) on the hira (flat, above the shinogi) but most don't.

The Carter that Dave posted is pretty crazy. I've got two and their bevels aren't anywhere near as horrific. My Toshihiro actually was quite nice to flatten and thin; even from 800-grit, there were almost no wobbles or high/low spots. Though I like my Zakuri knives a lot...some of them have been quite a bear to achieve a nice flat even bevel on.

Carter:
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Toshihiro (bottom knife):
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Zakuri fresh (top knife):
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Zakuri cleaned:
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For the trouble that some of these cause...once the bevel has been flattened and thinned appropriately, they are some of the nicest knives out there. It's a shame more makers don't invest more time and effort in getting a consistent bevel (though it can be argued that it's not necessary as long as long as the edge itself is not affected).

Nice knives and great pics. I would love to see a photo tutorial:wink:
 
Nice knives and great pics. I would love to see a photo tutorial:wink:
Honestly I'd love to see one too. Polishing has always been one of my weak points, really.

Took one side of my Carter to a JNS800 and then polished a bit on a few pieces of grit-charged balsa to tame the contrast and refine the scratches a bit so it wouldn't drag through food so much. Still a few small scratches peeking through but nothing too bad.

One thing I noticed about the 800 is that I really need to spend a fair bit of time to clean up 240/300 scratches. It'll look about ready, but really it's not. If the 800 looks about done, it seems to mean I've got about 10-20 minutes left on it. Could just be me though.

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