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BTW.... the only reason I'm sanding my 16' x 40' Hi-Soft, is a family member set a hot pot onto it, melting a shallow ring into it....twice ! :angiefavorite:

I'm sanding mine right now (one side only). Note: I am not done yet, read on..... I'm using a vacuum assisted hand sander (Festool brand). First, I lightly mark the entire surface with a colored pencil....lines about 3 inches apart. Then I sand these off. This is a furniture finisher's trick...

I've found, that if my wood board eventually gets a lot of deep cutting lines that look like they could trap food or bacteria.....(every couple of years) I'll take a power-sander to it, sanding with 220 grit sandpaper, to get a fresh flat surface. Then I'll treat it heavily and thoroughly...

The larger all-stone mortar and pestles.... from the south orient or from Central America do need to be "broken-in" right ? Typical method is to grind a couple of batches of raw uncooked rice... to eliminate any "first grind grit".

I love DIY knife magnet ideas. Here's mine... it is made from a 19" musician's rack face-plate, with a rubber neoprene face. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10210487295252284&set=a.1032221539423&type=3&theater

Tojiro Inox here..... never looked for (or needed) anything else (6 years). ....except for smaller shears, Clauss #925. The Tojiro can exhibit a small amount of spot-rust at the pivot... but nothing I am worried about.

Hand polishing with wet/dry sandpaper is a lot of work, but can be done. Taking it to a pro knife sharpener with motorized ultra-fine sanders and leather belts is the best bet and faster... just my opinion. But if you really want to get nerdy and learn a lot.... try it by hand. Perhaps practice...

That's a lot of questions. Each individual question can be found on these forums. It kinda depends of cutting habit, cutting frequency, and the amount of maintenance you realistically expect to adhere-to. I am not an expert, btw.... just a home cook. When cooking an average single meal and...

Takeda Classic Banno Bunka 170mm and Gesshin Kagekiyo 270mm Sujihiki (blue #1) (how did I get the last photo all in focus ??...."focus stacking" in Photoshop.)

Pretty petty and bigger brother.. Itou knives. (less than a year old)

I bought the MAC cleaver to cut-up and chop poultry....cut through the backbone with ease.....it's my new bone chopper. It came OOTB sharp, maybe @ 15deg edge ??.....but I honed it anyways at the same degree. Cuts paper easily after several uses....but I would expect that......it's a $375...

(re: Shibata Kotetsu) Thanks.....I bought it because I loved it's little brother, a 150mm petty.

MAC Ultimate, "Heavy Cleaver" SDK-85 https://www.macknife.com/collections/ultimate-series/products/ultimate-series-8-1-2-heavy-cleaver-sdk-85 400g, 14.1 oz.....8.5 inch ...(but site says, 351g, 12.4 oz) mine is heavier than advertised !! (a good thing)

Shibata Kotetsu, 240mm Not any fancy Damascus....but a great thin cutter, R2 steel sandwich.

I may have a different experience than others.....I like a thinner blade to quarter a winter squash....it seems to "cut through" the stiff flesh, where as a thick blade is "forced through" or "breaking through". As long as it's a long-ish blade, and I can put pressure (two hands) one the tip...

Thanks everyone. I do have doubles on a few knife sizes/shapes, but that's how I decide what works best. #1....does it do it's job really good? #2 ....is it worth it to use and maintain the knife tool. (sharpening, durability, and usefulness) ? I'm not a prof chef. I'm a home chef that...

I just got the MAC SDK-85 "heavy cleaver" in their Ultimate line. 4mm at spine. 351 grams (12.4 oz) ....de-boned a chicken with ease....hacked it's way through the backbone easily.

I assume my title here is not all-that surprising. I use mostly Japanese stainless knives for everyday quick chopping (8" MAC Mighty), but I also have also two identical blue steel pettys, two basic Shuns, one aogami super steel, a couple stainless with carbon cores, a set (6) of Zwilling...