1k stone hunt

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preizzo, can you get into more detail about the jck combo stone?
if the shapton glass 1k was thicker and had slightly more speed, it would be great stone.

i already have cho400 (love that stone). i need closer to 1k scratch pattern because i finish a lot of my edges on it. (petty, suji, beaters)
believe me i've tried jumping from cho400 to my finisher (jnat 3-4k) and it takes too long.
 
@panda
As mentioned the Watanabe Ai1000 is as fast as my JNS400, Scratchpattern like the JNS1000, incredible fast and finishes like a 1500+
I nearly scrubbed 3mm away on a Aogami2 in no time because i didnt check what i was doing. Black ink was running down like a waterfall but i didnt realize that i was cutting the kinfe away ;)
Feels rougher at the beginning, but if polished with a DMT its ok.
 
krassi how do you not realize by now that i already have a wat ai1000!!?? i swear most of you don't actually read threads thoroughly and just wander in your own thoughts...

thanks chucks, but i don't think i would have any use for a 2k stone. i'm not averse to soaker, i just prefer the convenience of s&g is all. i'm kind of excited for the king hyper that is also a soaker to arrive, mostly cause nobody ever talks about it.
 
mostly cause nobody ever talks about it.

If this is your criteria for selecting a stone, it is very hard to help you talking about stones on a forum..

..just saying..

Lars
 
hahahah!
Sorry @panda ..dang that happens if you are suddenly sober ;)
I totally forgot that! so i shut up ;)
 
Yeah so my plug for chosera 400 seems a little off after reading your first post again..

..however i absolutely refuse to sober up..

:biggrin:

Lars
 
Panda, have you tried using a fine diamond stone (for example Atoma 1200) on the Watanabe AI 1000? Mine felt much nicer afterwards...
 
Yeah that really did the trick! And would be a cheap solution for better feedback.
On a 1 hour direct comparison with JNS1000 there was suddenly not a real big difference anymore.
I used a worn out DMT and a worn out Atoma600 that are also fine for finishing jnats.

Because of the insane shapingpower of the stone it could drill away anything besides diamondplates.
Sorry i wrote so many posts in the past days that you loose any sight of the OP :)
 
haha, cheers lars.

benny: i have not tried that, i only have atoma 140. that seems like a compromise though, i'm looking for straight up usage.

I don't mean that you have to do that repeatedly, once did the trick. Perhaps the 140 will do it...

Edit: Perhaps you could also start on Atoma and then try a hard mid grit jnat...
 
I've got DMTs thru xf (correlates to 1200 (I think)) if you want to give Krassi's approach a go.
 
Well the 1,2 k cut pretty fast and does not load that much, nice finish on the carbon steel knives.
The 400 grit side was a bit to soft, wear off fast, didn't like it like my chosera 400.
 
The Sigma Select 2 1200 stone should fit your needs.....

it is faster then chosera, but a little softer, nice feedback.... No loading, but it wears too fast for my likes.....

The Pro stones from Naniwa are littel faster then chosera, but only testet 800, 5000 and 10000......

Greets Sebastian.
 
Just to add a negative data point, I bought a JNS1K on the basis on many favourable comments; it was intended to be my workhorse stone in a 2 stone sequence (second stone, the lovely Suehiro Rika 5000).

The JNS (in fact) gave me close to zero abrasion/feedback on a VG-10 knife, nor my JCK Carbonext. The only way I could make it do anything useful was to use a fragment of King 6000 stone as a pseudo-nagura.

I no longer use it, and should probably sell it.

BugBear
 
Just to add a negative data point, I bought a JNS1K on the basis on many favourable comments; it was intended to be my workhorse stone in a 2 stone sequence (second stone, the lovely Suehiro Rika 5000).

The JNS (in fact) gave me close to zero abrasion/feedback on a VG-10 knife, nor my JCK Carbonext. The only way I could make it do anything useful was to use a fragment of King 6000 stone as a pseudo-nagura.

I no longer use it, and should probably sell it.

BugBear


When the stone is new, you likely need to abrade it a bit too get to useable surface...
 
When the stone is new, you likely need to abrade it a bit too get to useable surface...

Yes - that was suggested when I told my take of woe else where; It's been extensively/repeatedly flattened, to no avail. The behaviour is what it is.

BugBear
 
Just to add a negative data point, I bought a JNS1K on the basis on many favourable comments; it was intended to be my workhorse stone in a 2 stone sequence (second stone, the lovely Suehiro Rika 5000).

The JNS (in fact) gave me close to zero abrasion/feedback on a VG-10 knife, nor my JCK Carbonext. The only way I could make it do anything useful was to use a fragment of King 6000 stone as a pseudo-nagura.

I no longer use it, and should probably sell it.

BugBear

Are you sure you are hitting the edge? Mine is pretty fast both on carbon and on stainless. Not the fastest there is, but much faster than my previous 1k, a Mizuyama 1k stone. By the way, do you see any black slurry showing up?
 
Are you sure you are hitting the edge? Mine is pretty fast both on carbon and on stainless. Not the fastest there is, but much faster than my previous 1k, a Mizuyama 1k stone. By the way, do you see any black slurry showing up?

What does "hitting the edge" mean, please? (I even checked the jargon glossary)

EDIT: I googled, and found it; yes, I'm pretty confident, I use a "trick" (don't ask) so that I freehand sharpen at very repeatable angle, and I don't have this lack-of-abrasion issue on other stones.

(that difference would it make anyway - at the risk of an ugly double negative, it doesn't matter where I'm not getting abrasion)

BugBear
 
Hi there bugbear, what i meant is that your stone could be abrading, but not at the right place (the edge). If you are getting a black slurry in your stone, it is abrading metal. Now, you'll only need to adjust the angle to get it right. If you paint your edge using a sharpie pen, you may see if you are hitting the edge. If you are positive the stone is not abrading anything, you might give Maxim a head's up and see what's going on.
 
Hi Panda. Yes, Mizuyama is the stone from Korin. The problem is that i don't think you'll like it very much as it is slower than JNS 1k. The feedback is great in my opinion ( it feels grainier/sandier than King). Never used Togiharu, but it sure looks like King!
 
Hi there bugbear, what i meant is that your stone could be abrading, but not at the right place (the edge). If you are getting a black slurry in your stone, it is abrading metal. Now, you'll only need to adjust the angle to get it right. If you paint your edge using a sharpie pen, you may see if you are hitting the edge. If you are positive the stone is not abrading anything, you might give Maxim a head's up and see what's going on.

Ah, I see. No, no black slurry, no friction, no metal removal. :-(

BugBear
 
king hyper 1000 arrived and it is awesome. its single best trait is completely immune to clogging. it's hard and doesn't dish, good feedback and cuts pretty fast too. it could be slightly faster and feedback could be more silky, but it's right below the sweet spot on those two points and that's perfectly ok as this is a great compromise. i don't think i could ask for much more than what this stone brings to the table in terms of balance of the traits i look for.

i can't believe nobody talks about this stone, i guess cause it's a king people think 'why even bother?'

this will be living in its own dedicated third pan pond happily permasoaking near the sink.

WP_20170124_15_20_10_Pro_zpssxbdnlck.jpg~original
 
Is hyper a different stone compared to regular King (Deluxe)?
 
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