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Yes, and when using this dry, high heat technique, the pan will be brown (not to be confused with orange); ie: well seasoned. Brown = love in cooking. Caramelization is what it's all about...

One can always drizzle with a little extra virgin when plating....
 
Ok, just to get that right. You actually use no oil but only salt on all proteins.
And I guess it works on both normal pans and grill pans, correct?
Also do you do that only on cast iron or also on iron pan such as the debuyer series?

Edit: does the salt need to be coarse or any would do?
 
Does anyone have a griswold large logo and small logo or a griswold and Wagner that can tell me if there's a big difference in them to warrant such a big price difference?
 
I​
Erilyn75 said:
Does anyone have a griswold large logo and small logo or a griswold and Wagner that can tell me if there's a big difference in them to warrant such a big price difference?[

No performance differences. Only a collectors difference.
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I've got my eyeballs on a few large and small logos. Seems the smaller size skillets run pretty much around the same price, give or take $10 unless the large logo is in supreme condition. It's the bigger ones 10, 11 and 12 that there's a huge difference in price. I see a lot of the smaller logo pans and wagners not selling on the bay and I keep reading conflicting info on the internets.
 
Not just because I'm Canadian, but bar none, the best cast iron I've used/do use was made in Brockville, Ontario. They are called "Smart Pan", are antique, super smooth and have that perfect medium weight. I love them.
 
My family is from the Brockville area on my mom's side. I'd love to get my hands on a Brockville pan.

edit: I'd love one of their axe's too, come to think of it.
 
Erilyn75 said:
I've got my eyeballs on a few large and small logos. Seems the smaller size skillets run pretty much around the same price, give or take $10 unless the large logo is in supreme condition. It's the bigger ones 10, 11 and 12 that there's a huge difference in price. I see a lot of the smaller logo pans and wagners not selling on the bay and I keep reading conflicting info on the internets.
Click to expand...

i bought my pan from a rabid collector. the man was insane.

he asked me what i wanted the pan for and i told him..."cooking". (seemed like a weird que)..he told me to buy a small logo one. and showed me a griwold #8, $25! i got it. he also sold me an unmarked one. slightly bigger. slick as glass. $20. i got them to be used. they work wonderfully. the unmarked one, he thinks was a mistake griswold.

the large logo pans fetch a better price for sure. with that heat ring thing..even more. so the man said, and said, and said..
 
My GF found both a small and a super large Wagner skillet at estate sales. The large actually had a matching lid, but she didn't get it because they wanted like an extra $10 for it and she didn't have enough cash. Obviously the prices where far below ebay levels. However, even ebay prices don't seem super outrageous when you think of what it would cost to make a small production run of these today with modern tooling, shipping, and labor costs.

Answer: the better part of $200.
http://finexusa.com/
finex-usa--graphic--lead.jpg

I pre ordered one just because this is something that I've wished existed for years and now, even though I have 2 wagners and a forged carbon steel skillet, I can't resist.
 
Justin0505 said:
My GF found both a small and a super large Wagner skillet at estate sales. The large actually had a matching lid, but she didn't get it because they wanted like an extra $10 for it and she didn't have enough cash. Obviously the prices where far below ebay levels. However, even ebay prices don't seem super outrageous when you think of what it would cost to make a small production run of these today with modern tooling, shipping, and labor costs.

Answer: the better part of $200.
http://finexusa.com/
finex-usa--graphic--lead.jpg

I pre ordered one just because this is something that I've wished existed for years and now, even though I have 2 wagners and a forged carbon steel skillet, I can't resist.
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That looks pretty neat!

Has anybody tried the Turk forged iron pans or Komin? carbon steel cookware has mostly replaced my cast iron fry pans in common usage, and I have a lot of cast iron fry pans, but I think both of these look neat, if for very different reasons. I really like the Turk handle look, and Turk makes lots of other nice looking stuff. The Turk carbon steel pans look similar to Matfer. I'm not sure how pronounced the criss-cross pattern is on these Turk iron pans.
 
EdipisReks said:
That looks pretty neat!

Has anybody tried the Turk forged iron pans or Komin? carbon steel cookware has mostly replaced my cast iron fry pans in common usage, and I have a lot of cast iron fry pans, but I think both of these look neat, if for very different reasons. I really like the Turk handle look, and Turk makes lots of other nice looking stuff. The Turk carbon steel pans look similar to Matfer. I'm not sure how pronounced the criss-cross pattern is on these Turk iron pans.
Click to expand...

These Turk pans looks really good, I am going to get one of their pans to see how that works. Any idea what the the criss-cross pattern is for?
As for the Komin pans, I am not sure how well really thin cast iron would work, but you you might want to also look at Ronneby Bruk's ultra light line
I haven't used this specific line but I have several pans of their classic line and have been happy with it.

@Justin0505:
Quite curious about these Finex pan, if you get one, please let us know how it peforms
 
EdipisReks said:
That looks pretty neat!

Has anybody tried the Turk forged iron pans or Komin? carbon steel cookware has mostly replaced my cast iron fry pans in common usage, and I have a lot of cast iron fry pans, but I think both of these look neat, if for very different reasons. I really like the Turk handle look, and Turk makes lots of other nice looking stuff. The Turk carbon steel pans look similar to Matfer. I'm not sure how pronounced the criss-cross pattern is on these Turk iron pans.
Click to expand...

I have been waiting for these to come back in stock. The only US reseller (the one you linked) says it will be mid February before they get them back in stock. I am looking to buy the one piece hand forged ones (both 24cm & 28cm) but can not find any reseller willing to ship to the US. The cost is cheaper in Europe and should help offset the shipping if I do get lucky and find one.
 
That's a great link. Thanks Sam!

I've been looking for the best fat/oil for the polymerisation process. Best I found so far has been a combination of coconut oil and ghee (which is of course a form of pure butter). Worked better than other oils I've tried but when I cook something acidic like tomatoes, it strips the coating very dramatically. I'll definitely try flaxseed oil now. Very reluctant to bring my pan surfaces back to iron though!
 
You will Not be disappointed with the results if you follow this set of directions I have a vast amount of cast iron and cook with it very often as in almost exclusively once it is Seasoned Correctly you will be utterly amazed at its ability to cook flawlessly.

Sam
 
Being a furniture maker it is interesting to note that Flaxseed oil is just another name for Linseed oil. Linseed oil in a hardware/paint/woodworker's store is often mixed with chemical "dryers" which are poisonous and is also much cheaper than Flaxseed oil which you might find in your health food store. The two names help keep people from thinking they might be able to ingest Linseed oil as a dietary supplement and save some money - though it would be fine to finish a chair with Flaxseed oil - It would just cost more and dry a bit slower. Linseed oil is a tried and true finish. It adheres to itself (builds) and it "self"- polymerizes well (hardens) which, is the reason it works on cast iron too. Most oils don't really polymerize -or "harden"properly and produce a weak finish. I use flaxseed oil on all my cast iron and find that in many ways the process of seasoning a pan has much in common with finishing a piece of wood. Just sayin'.
 
I picked up a Komin pan at W-S, the other day. Yeah, that thing is pretty light and thin, not sure if it would be a performer. The design is really nice, though.
 
kannamaster said:
Being a furniture maker it is interesting to note that Flaxseed oil is just another name for Linseed oil. Linseed oil in a hardware/paint/woodworker's store is often mixed with chemical "dryers" which are poisonous and is also much cheaper than Flaxseed oil which you might find in your health food store. The two names help keep people from thinking they might be able to ingest Linseed oil as a dietary supplement and save some money - though it would be fine to finish a chair with Flaxseed oil - It would just cost more and dry a bit slower. Linseed oil is a tried and true finish. It adheres to itself (builds) and it "self"- polymerizes well (hardens) which, is the reason it works on cast iron too. Most oils don't really polymerize -or "harden"properly and produce a weak finish. I use flaxseed oil on all my cast iron and find that in many ways the process of seasoning a pan has much in common with finishing a piece of wood. Just sayin'.
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I have a cast iron pan that was made during the Civil War. I guarantee that the only fats that were used on it, until I got it, were crisco and lard, and the seasoning (which was rancid, and had to come off before I could start using it) was hard and extremely durable. I've never used Flaxseed on carbon or cast iron, but I was impressed by the results of 150 years of use.
 
I was able to track down a 28cm Turk One-Piece Forged Iron Fry Pan for around $150 shipped to the US. I placed the order but it will be 2 weeks before it gets here. I will let you know my thoughts once I use it for awhile.
 
bkultra said:
I was able to track down a 28cm Turk One-Piece Forged Iron Fry Pan for around $150 shipped to the US. I placed the order but it will be 2 weeks before it gets here. I will let you know my thoughts once I use it for awhile.
Click to expand...

cool!!

the skillets look awesome as well.
 
EdipisReks said:
I picked up a Komin pan at W-S, the other day. Yeah, that thing is pretty light and thin, not sure if it would be a performer. The design is really nice, though.
Click to expand...

Very interested in hearing your thoughts about it once you've had the time to use it
 
kannamaster said:
Being a furniture maker it is interesting to note that Flaxseed oil is just another name for Linseed oil. Linseed oil in a hardware/paint/woodworker's store is often mixed with chemical "dryers" which are poisonous and is also much cheaper than Flaxseed oil which you might find in your health food store. The two names help keep people from thinking they might be able to ingest Linseed oil as a dietary supplement and save some money - though it would be fine to finish a chair with Flaxseed oil - It would just cost more and dry a bit slower. Linseed oil is a tried and true finish. It adheres to itself (builds) and it "self"- polymerizes well (hardens) which, is the reason it works on cast iron too. Most oils don't really polymerize -or "harden"properly and produce a weak finish. I use flaxseed oil on all my cast iron and find that in many ways the process of seasoning a pan has much in common with finishing a piece of wood. Just sayin'.
Click to expand...

The Most important thing is FOOD GRADE :

If not you run the risk of being poisoned and ruining your beloved Cast Iron ! should some one read your post and decide to do it your way they could die if they use the wrong oil . I hope you can live with that as the information you have put out could and would Kill folks .

Sam
 
Sam Cro said:
The Most important thing is FOOD GRADE :

If not you run the risk of being poisoned and ruining your beloved Cast Iron ! should some one read your post and decide to do it your way they could die if they use the wrong oil . I hope you can live with that as the information you have put out could and would Kill folks .

Sam
Click to expand...

You should read it again. He never said to use linseed oil and even remarked that it is the same as flaxseed oil with poisonous chemicals added to it.
 
apathetic said:
Very interested in hearing your thoughts about it once you've had the time to use it
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I'm sorry for the confusion: when I said I picked up, I really meant physically picked up, as in handled.
 
bkultra said:
I was able to track down a 28cm Turk One-Piece Forged Iron Fry Pan for around $150 shipped to the US. I placed the order but it will be 2 weeks before it gets here. I will let you know my thoughts once I use it for awhile.
Click to expand...

very cool!
 
Talim said:
You should read it again. He never said to use linseed oil and even remarked that it is the same as flaxseed oil with poisonous chemicals added to it.
Click to expand...

Sorry. My post could have been a little confusing though I did not intend it to be. DO NOT INGEST LINSEED OIL OR USE IT TO SEASON YOUR PANS. Flaxseed oil is safe for seasoning pans and ingesting and, while more expensive, could also replace linseed oil as a wood finish. Actually it would be a fine choice for cutting boards or handles as a substitute for more smelly ,poison laced linseed oil based finishes. So to recap. You can eat Flaxseed oil and you can finish stuff with it including pans. The only thing you should do with anything labeled Linseed oil is finish wood with it. Do not ingest or finish your pans with Linseed oil. Thanks and sorry for any confusion.
 
And while I'm at it. There is one more reason it is good to understand the link between Flaxseed oil and Linseed oil. On the labels of most Linseed and tung oil type finishes they note that oily rags can and will self combust! This is because as linseed oil dries it produces heat. In other words the drying of linseed and other oils is an exothermic reaction as you may remember from your chemistry class. Many a wood shop has burned down from oily rags. The problem is that Flaxseed oil does not come with similar warnings- but it should because as I noted before - it's primarily the same stuff - just without the poisinous driers and solvents. This means if you use a paper towel to apply Flaxseed oil to a pan to season it and then ball up the paper and throw it in the garbage it could start on fire without any other help or flame source! It is best to soak or even submerge all oily rags in water and then dispose of them somewhere safe and it also helps to lay them out flat - not balled or rolled up when disposing of them. Once they are dry they should not self combust but are still flammable rags! Thanks Sam Cro for alerting me that my previous post may have been misunderstood.
For more info
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yq6VW-c2Ts
A final note. It appears that in some countries what we would call Flaxseed oil is sold as Linseed oil but labeled as "food safe" (I hope) - rather than use a different name. So Caveat Emptor as usual.
 
I have used cast iron pans in the past and I must admit I did like them but the weight was a bit of a problem so went with all clad. Fast forward to Christmas and my wife's mother got me a set of de buyer mineral b pans and I absolutly love them. They are like cast iron and not as heavy. I seasoned them and have been using them over the holidays and will be adding to them. Take a look.

http://www.debuyer.com/product.php?id=778&cat=63
 
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