Dechipping my old Sabatier.... and looking for new knife.

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Here a more normal life pic of a Hiromoto former santoku in the middle, together with a Misono Swedish and a Herder K2.
You may recognize a little difference between core and clad by colour and finish.

http://postimage.org/image/akv9217kv/

I'm sure some people will call the carbons dirty, but certainly not the Hiromoto.
 
Here a more normal life pic of a Hiromoto former santoku in the middle, together with a Misono Swedish and a Herder K2.
You may recognize a little difference between core and clad by colour and finish.

http://postimage.org/image/akv9217kv/

I'm sure some people will call the carbons dirty, but certainly not the Hiromoto.

considering getting a hiromoto myself.. going between that and a sugimoto gyuto.. never used the hiro though.. any idea on edge retention?
 
Pictures of the Hiromoto often show etched patina: much darker than with normal use. AS is not very reactive. Would the patina be a problem: baking soda will stabilize the process and the core will turn mat light grey - about as the entire Carbonext, by the way.


aha well that is interesting to know. I have seen some of the custom thinned and etched AS' that David Martell has done, but didn;t realise that the one I posted a picture of might have had the same treatment. Is it difficult to do it, or can it be done at home without too much in the way of specialised stuff? I love the way it looks. Have missed Friday post in Japan now so will wait until next week anyhow.

I emailed Koki about whetstones and he told me that

a) #1000 whetstone would be enough
b) I should not be using a whetstone to thin the knife, as this could scratch the face

Any suggestions as to how one would go about thinning a knife, if not by using a stone?

R
 
aha well that is interesting to know. I have seen some of the custom thinned and etched AS' that David Martell has done, but didn;t realise that the one I posted a picture of might have had the same treatment. Is it difficult to do it, or can it be done at home without too much in the way of specialised stuff? I love the way it looks. Have missed Friday post in Japan now so will wait until next week anyhow.

I emailed Koki about whetstones and he told me that

a) #1000 whetstone would be enough
b) I should not be using a whetstone to thin the knife, as this could scratch the face

Any suggestions as to how one would go about thinning a knife, if not by using a stone?

R

You will scratch the blade face when you thin, then you remove the scratches, wet dry sand paper/ micro mesh pads do the trick.
 
what started as looking for a new kitchen knife seems somehow to be turning into an expensive hobby.

I wonder if I wouldn't just be extremely happy with a Fujiwara FKM for $85, use just my #1000 whetstone on it, and save $170!
 
Well, Koki is a little bit cautious. So he won't advice in any way that may be returned against him.
When one has to deal with a novice it's wise to suggest a 1k only. Not too coarse to cause harm, and not too fine to be counterproductive into inexperimented hands. I would suggest one more stone in the 3k-5k range. My own progression with the Hiromoto is Chosera 400-800-2k-5k.
Thinning: any sharpening at a more acute angle than that of the very edge is thinning behind the edge, because you do remove some material without touching the edge. Given a sharpening angle, if you lift the spine: microbevel. You lower the spine: thinning.
Koki had probably vast thinning operations in mind where the blade is put flat on the stone and pressure applied where you want steel to get abraded. Don't try that with a 1k stone, and certainly not with the soft stainless clad which is quite abrasion resistant. Without removing any substantial amount of steel, you will just scratch the face, I agree.
I would add that the soft clad gets scratched easily because of its softness, but these scratches can got removed just as easy as well, thanks to the same softness.
Etching could be fun but won't last forever. As far as I know quite aggressive stuff is involved. It will dull the edge. With raw meat, mustard or hot vinegar you may create a lighter bluish patina. Clean the very edge immediately, and let the stuff on the remaining core steel for some time. Rinse with the hottest water you can get, and see the colour change taking place. Tell people the patina has an antiseptic function.
 
I have just seen this which seems like an out of the ordinary bargain for UK! Equates to about US$68 for a combi #1000/#4000 stone.

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/knives/knife-sharpening-tools/stones---japanese-waterstones/JP1413/japanese-combination-waterstone---1000_6000

Also I have just been invited to dinner at a friend's house and she tells me they bought a J knife last week and that it is amazing. No idea what it is yet...

King 1k/6k, price is about right...stone will be a bit smaller than some, but supposedly what Murray Carter uses when not using cinder block :)

Many here have used that stone...
 
Thanks CC -
I have since found this site, which seems like it knows what it is selling.

http://www.edenwebshops.co.uk/en/ct/whetstones-sharpening-stones.htm


I don't really know what I am buying though!

I have a combi with v destroyed #240 side and practicaly untouched #1000 side -
I clearly need to get something to flatten out the #240 side, and was wondering if I get a diamond thing, does it need to be the same size (or larger) than the stone being flattened?
 
For flattening I'd get an Atoma 140 from Maxim

Would love to but I am in the UK, and also I am a cheapskate.:hungry:

[NB. still doesn't answer question as to whether it needs to be same size or larger than the stone.]
 
If you are a cheapskate, you should flatten with drywall screen or sandpaper on glass or one of the less expensive flatteners like Norton. I believe Korin also has something fairly inexpensive similar to the Norton.

Larger makes it easier.
 
Yeah I know you're in the UK but shipping from Denmark is pretty reasonable. If it's the same size as the stone it's fine
 
Get the CN.
It's a benchmark knife. For many it's THE benchmark knife. I have a Kikuichi TKC which is basically just a brother from a different mother.

We just had a meetup and one of the big revelations was just how damn good a couple of "tuned up" (re-handled ed and re-finished) TKC's stood up to knives costing as much as 10X more.

It's a knife that will give you a good intro to j-knives right out of the box, but will grow with you as you learn to thin behind the edge and slowly change grind and profile to your ideal.

Between that and your sab, you will have 2 of the most iconic and influential blade shapes in recent kitchen knife history.

As for the length, I usually follow the philosophy of "try something different than I already have."

Oh yeah, great work on the chip removal, but the width of the primary edge bevel makes me think that theres still quite a bit of steel behind the edge and you coulld up performance by thinning it out.

As for the gf, making purchases based on someone that knows less than you is always a bad idea. Help her to learn/appreciate what she's looking at before you ask her opinion.... And if she still thinks patina looks dirty, then get her a nice, clean, pos cheap stainless knife for the local big-box. Let her try cutting with that for awhile then let her dry your "dirty" carbon.
 
.............I have a combi with v destroyed #240 side and practicaly untouched #1000 side -
I clearly need to get something to flatten out the #240 side, and was wondering if I get a diamond thing, does it need to be the same size (or larger) than the stone being flattened?

Get a sheet of coarse grit (P80) wet/dry sand paper. Find a flat work surface. The bench top next to the sink is a good spot. Put a little bit of water down for the sheet to lay on (you can use half a sheet if space is lilmited), soak the stone and flatten away. Works an absolute treat and costs you absolutely bugger all. Depending on the grit of the stone I found I can use half a sheet at least five times.

Personally I'd leave the 240 side alone and start using the 1000 grit side of your stone. Generally the lower grits are used for the fast removal of material (reshaping the profile, thinning the blade etc) rather than for creating the finished edge. The 1000 grit will leave a really nice bitey edge on your knife and I (and many others here from what I've read) generally don't go any further on your average softer stainless kitchen knife blade. You can stop there with a J knife too. I wouldn't go out and buy a new stone if I were in your shoes. Mind you, the bigger Japanese whet stones (210X65mm) are a lot easier to use. And there's certainly no need for a diamond plate of any size or description for flattening purposes. Unless of course you like spending money and it's turning in to a hobby.

And I'd agree with your friend in saying that J knives are amazing. I've got a couple of entry level ones and they really are from a different planet when it comes to sharpness and edge retention. I find I don't have to sharpen them anywhere near as often as my other knives.
 
Get a sheet of coarse grit (P80) wet/dry sand paper. Find a flat work surface. The bench top next to the sink is a good spot. Put a little bit of water down for the sheet to lay on (you can use half a sheet if space is lilmited), soak the stone and flatten away. Works an absolute treat and costs you absolutely bugger all. Depending on the grit of the stone I found I can use half a sheet at least five times.

Personally I'd leave the 240 side alone and start using the 1000 grit side of your stone. Generally the lower grits are used for the fast removal of material (reshaping the profile, thinning the blade etc) rather than for creating the finished edge. The 1000 grit will leave a really nice bitey edge on your knife and I (and many others here from what I've read) generally don't go any further on your average softer stainless kitchen knife blade. You can stop there with a J knife too. I wouldn't go out and buy a new stone if I were in your shoes. Mind you, the bigger Japanese whet stones (210X65mm) are a lot easier to use. And there's certainly no need for a diamond plate of any size or description for flattening purposes. Unless of course you like spending money and it's turning in to a hobby.

And I'd agree with your friend in saying that J knives are amazing. I've got a couple of entry level ones and they really are from a different planet when it comes to sharpness and edge retention. I find I don't have to sharpen them anywhere near as often as my other knives.


Ok this is great advice thank you. I will go buy some wet/dry sandpaper tomorrow. The only reason the #240 side is ground down so badly is that I had used it in the past before I knew anything about what I was doing. I assumed that it was the first and main one to use because that is what I had, and it is a Global, and I had assumed that they knew what they were doing... I might post a photo of it soon in a new thread so you can all laugh at me, and see how I deal with flattening it.






Get the CN.
It's a benchmark knife. For many it's THE benchmark knife. I have a Kikuichi TKC which is basically just a brother from a different mother.

We just had a meetup and one of the big revelations was just how damn good a couple of "tuned up" (re-handled ed and re-finished) TKC's stood up to knives costing as much as 10X more.

It's a knife that will give you a good intro to j-knives right out of the box, but will grow with you as you learn to thin behind the edge and slowly change grind and profile to your ideal.

Between that and your sab, you will have 2 of the most iconic and influential blade shapes in recent kitchen knife history.

As for the length, I usually follow the philosophy of "try something different than I already have."

Oh yeah, great work on the chip removal, but the width of the primary edge bevel makes me think that theres still quite a bit of steel behind the edge and you coulld up performance by thinning it out.

As for the gf, making purchases based on someone that knows less than you is always a bad idea. Help her to learn/appreciate what she's looking at before you ask her opinion.... And if she still thinks patina looks dirty, then get her a nice, clean, pos cheap stainless knife for the local big-box. Let her try cutting with that for awhile then let her dry your "dirty" carbon.

Your advice about buying the CN is good, thank you - then you mess it up by saying "ignore the GF" as she was objecting to the Hiromoto!!! I also am fairly sure that she will love the AS even with the "dirty" edge, because she is not dumb and it is a beautiful thing.

I think honestly I will love both of them. Someone else commented "get both", and I can see where they are coming from.

I like what you say about length as well - my Sab is 210 or so, so yes a 240 is probably the way forward..... you are right about me not having thinned it - it was all about removing the chip and I knew nothing about what I was doing. It still cuts well though even in state I left it. I love what I am learning here - I may thin it down and then polish it up at some point, maybe even put a new handle on it if I get inspired to do so, as it is all dishwasher cracked, but it was my first proper kitchen knife and I think I lucked out and somehow bought something that is actually half decent and worth putting a bit of love into, for itself as well as for the nostalgia it entails.


Interesting thing about my friend's J knife - it is a petty and they paid over £100 for it (I think £119). As far as I can tell it is a JCK GEKKO, which they sell for $75 (£51 delivered) and it is not even sharp. They were going on about how sharp it was, but it is OOTB sharp and wouldn't even cut paper. They had been told to use a water wheel sharpener on it and that they should bring it back to the shop for resharpening every 4 months for £6 a go. Amazing. Really not impressed with them at all. I thought that the reason UK knives were overpriced was to do with the 27% import tax, but that is 100% over what JCK want, and on top of that they have spun them crap about sharpening which is nonsense. Compared to the old Sab Judge knives they have it was indeed quite sharp, but a little bit of love ob their old cheap knives would have saved them a lot.

They were talking about buying a Gyuto, I said to talk to me before they did that!!!
 
Yeah I know you're in the UK but shipping from Denmark is pretty reasonable. If it's the same size as the stone it's fine

Not postage steven, its the $100!!! I came here for advice on a knife that I was thinking might cost me $100, now the knife has gone up to $180 and the stones are $80 on top, and spending $100 to flatten out a stone that is too coarse anyway is just pushing me into crazy speak, I mean a man has to be able to afford to buy some beer now and then, or at the very least some ingredients to chop, right?
:bliss:
 
Not postage steven, its the $100!!! I came here for advice on a knife that I was thinking might cost me $100, now the knife has gone up to $180 and the stones are $80 on top, and spending $100 to flatten out a stone that is too coarse anyway is just pushing me into crazy speak, I mean a man has to be able to afford to buy some beer now and then, or at the very least some ingredients to chop, right?
:bliss:

Yeah I definitely see where you're coming from. It took me a long time to get round to buying an Atoma, I got mine after buying loads of knives. It makes things a lot easier though you can use other methods
 
Yeah I definitely see where you're coming from. It took me a long time to get round to buying an Atoma, I got mine after buying loads of knives. It makes things a lot easier though you can use other methods

I get this - If I had loads of knives it would be a no brainer. I think this is a hobby I will evolve with! For now, its baby steps.
 
Very sensible. By the way here's a youtuber of wet/dry stone flattening.


Thanks Bobby that's good to see.

I think it only fair that I show you guys what I have done to my old stone in my ignorance (well it is my GF's, that she was sold when she bought some Global knives years ago, I was only person ever to use them, and they did indeed get my knives pretty sharp, but I think in comparison to how they should be, they are probably not that great! I find it amazing that Global sell/sold these stones with brand new knives - a #240 and a #1000, when from what I have learnt here the #240 is a pretty extreme grit size)

Anyway - here you see what I have, gonna take a fair bit of flattening I think - at least on the #240 side. The #1000 is not flat, but its not so bad.....

Any recommendations of what grit w/d paper I need for these? Nice to have a project for the weekend, eh?

rUeh4pI.jpg
 
I must say I am a bit concerned that I am going to try and razor sharp polish my beautiful Gransfors Bruks axe once I am done honing up all my knives!

Hopefully I will stop myself.

(not my photo, clearly, but same axe..... this was product of my last foray into internet research for sharp bits of steel!)

Small-Forest-Axe-(2).png
 
Sharpen up that axe and you might be surprised at what it can do!
 
Well my spare paving stone and the wet dry/sandpaper worked a treat. I had a wee go at the battered old Sab with the 220 and 400 paper, which started polishing up a treat.
Wondering how best to do running repair on the handle cracks and recessed rivets now - am I right in thinking filling up with superglue is a way to go? I have some normal woodglue as well. Is it worth putting teak oil on the handle as well, as I have some knocking about I think? Anything to spruce it up a little. Any suggestions welcome.

Does anyone have a link to a blade polishing tutorial anywhere?

Thanks for all the tips so far, you guys are a goldmine.

6O9ic5M.jpg




WYimVBc.jpg
 
............Does anyone have a link to a blade polishing tutorial anywhere?..........

You've got it bad haven't you! Got a feeling there could be a magnetic strip worth of expensive knives and half a dozen stones entering your life shortly. Forget about all this rubbish that people tell you about eating and drinking.
 
there are a few threads here about polishing the blade, this is one...
 
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