Evolution of a D Handle

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For custom orders people can choose any combination of available materials, though I am not likely to use horn. I find that blackwood or ebony is in some way a better substitute, as it moves less than horn, so in winter months, you won't have a spacer to protrude as much if you had a horn ferrule.

Blackwood or ebony doesn't stabilize well (to jugge by little weight change before and after stabilizing). Both polish to a pretty nice luster, a notch less than horn.
 
to be more precise: my handle shall be d-shaped, desert ironwood, nickel silver spacer + horn ferrule. now that horn is no longer an option (no way at all???), i need some alternative black ferrule material which, when polished, will shine also. african blackwood maybe? would stabilized african blackwood be any "better" than natural blackwood?

Marko made a d-shaped desert ironwood handle with an African blackwood ferrule(ivory spacer) for me a number of months ago. I love the look of the blackwood even more than the horn which was a bit too shiny for me, almost looked synthetic. The blackwood takes a nice shine, but still looks like a natural material. As for stabilization, I don't think it's necessary, but you can always go ahead and do it, but it will cost you a lot to do such a small piece. Trust Marko, he's a real pro and has great instincts and experience.
 
I find that blackwood or ebony is in some way a better substitute, as it moves less than horn, so in winter months, you won't have a spacer to protrude as much if you had a horn ferrule.
thanks, marko! living in austria implies that there are big differences between summer and winter temperatures/humidity...

Marko made a d-shaped desert ironwood handle with an African blackwood ferrule(ivory spacer) for me a number of months ago. I love the look of the blackwood even more than the horn which was a bit too shiny for me, almost looked synthetic. The blackwood takes a nice shine, but still looks like a natural material. As for stabilization, I don't think it's necessary, but you can always go ahead and do it, but it will cost you a lot to do such a small piece. Trust Marko, he's a real pro and has great instincts and experience.
can you post a pic of your beauty?
 
The handles are looking good Marko!

As for the spacer, I prefer no spacer, but I'd like to see a spacer that's about half or 1/3 the thickness of the one posted most recently. I a fan of thin spacers.

I still have to say, I think you should investigate some synthetic option for customers that don't want any end cap on the ferrule. I understand your desire to use natural products, but WHEN I order a custom from you, I'd prefer a synthetic ferrule with no cap to a natural w/ a cap.
 
can you post a pic of your beauty?[/QUOTE]


image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
You should see it in person, even better. If you do a custom you can get just about any length ferrule you want. Guess it depends on the size of your hand (mine are small) and your aesthetic preferences. Good luck.
 
Different strokes I guess, as I like it just the way it is. Great call on the ivory...

Beautiful, beautiful knife.

Thanks JBG. I wanted to keep all the materials natural so ivory was the logical choice for me. I love using it too.
 
I used a narrower N/S spacer in combination with the N/S tip. Ferrule - blackwood, handle - cocobolo. To gauge the size (it's a gyuto handle) adding a refinished Carter into the picture. This handle for a similar size knife.

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Classy. I think it looks better than the original horn-spacer-wood d-handles.
 
Very, very nice Marko. The proportions among the ferrule, spacer and tip work very well. I like it a lot.
 
That's very nice Marko. Contrasts well- pleasing balance of dark and light. Has a classic, yet modern feel to it. Well done.
 
Yes, that's it Marko, your right into your stride with those handles, lookin good.
 
I think it looks great though if the ferrule was just a bit longer I would feel it's perfect. Like if the length were long enough for the taper to start right on or just at the top of the silver spacer, that would be ideal.
 
Thanks, folks.

Some people express preferences for both: tip and a spacer, some for tip only, so I will play by ear and for custom knives, of course, this will be a preference.

In the mean time, I am putting finishing touches on the construction, trying to make it more efficient and to reduce failure. This seems to take longer than I anticipated, but in some ways, the same methods is going to apply for a Western handle, so I hope it is time well spent.
 
I agree with Theory's theory. If the ferrule were just a tad bit longer it would look more balanced. It's fantastic though. So clean, simple, and elegant. Do you buff these? The metal on there is shiny as heck.
 
I tried a longer ferrule and didn't like it as much as a shorter. D hanldes are a little shorter in length than octagonal, and longer ferrule seems to stand our more on D.

Yes, tips and spacer are polished and buffed.

M
 
It's a bit different with a metal tip. The length of the ferrule +tip is the same as the length of horn ferrule in the picture above.
 
Yup, that's what I'm talkin' about!

+3

I think with the metal tip + spacer and the shorter ferrule, the overall appearance is a shorter ferrule that looks too short. Adding the tip and spacer should either add to the length of the handle, making it a tad longer overall (which isn't a bad thing) or take the extra length out of the wood handle (which may make it look too short, so it may have to be a longer handle).

? - why does a D handle have to be short than an octagonal handle? There's not much worse in a handle than one that's too short, both aesthetically and functionally.
 
Sure thing, I have no problem adding to the ferrule's lengh if you guys like it better.

I don't know why, but oversize octagonal looks better than oversize D.
 
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