Kippington workhorse honyaki pass around

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Hah it was always a bit of a gamble sending them around to so many people, I'd be very curious to know how they look now after you've done some work to them. I'll only ever get to see the Marek laser again, as Craig's WH will of course stay in the US.
I've actually learned a lot about grinds in the year or so since I made the two passarounds. My shop is back up and running but it's time for me to stop focusing on the profile/grind/HT and instead look into making better handles. I've gone a little quiet on the forum as I do a little R&D in that direction. I appreciate your kind words on the handles you've got with you.

I need a freaking logo too! :laugh:
 
I actually forgot to mention that I really dig the simple handles, agree with Sun on the preferring the bigger one. I have big mitts🤲
 
barely made a dent, but just the spot right at the edge needed serious trimming so i basically just knocked that 'tiny shoulder' off. still needs more work but it cuts pretty good now.
in its current state is measured right at 52mm, so its lost 1mm since birth.
kip%20wh_zpstugf34kx.jpg~original

kip%20wh2_zpsifmtgs9x.jpg~original

kip%20wh%20choil_zpszxgbd9zu.jpg~original
 
That should actually make a good bit of difference...lol will probably enjoy not getting back a fatty...really loved the thin tip it sports...but definitely needed a bit of meat taken off the middle.
 
The workhorse has been sharpened enough at this point that it just isn’t performing the way it should. This was how it looked at the beginning of the passaround.
https://i.imgur.com/74a48tK.jpg
I’m going to take it out of the passaround. Last 3 people waiting for passaround, are you guys still interested in using just the laser?
 
i was under the impression that the laser is 1095, turns out theyre both W2. i swear though the steel in the laser feels different (i like it more on laser). kip - is that simply because of difference in stock thickness or was there a change in heat treat between the two?
 
Yeah theres a difference in the heat treatment between the two. These were tempered over an open forge with the infrared temperature gun reading me the numbers. Low and behold, the readings are innaccurate as I mentioned earlier in this thread, so the WH may have a higher temper. Also the quenching temps probably differed slightly... orangish-red vs redish-orange and all that jazz.

All I can say is, thank goodness for the standardization of my HTing kiln!

Really nice work on the thinning btw, I'm sure that LOL really appreciates it. Could you take a picture of the laser's choil so we can compare its current state to the picture I posted earlier?
 
kip%20laser_zpsrpby0gim.jpg


it's actually about same spine thickness as my marko, just ground much thinner, you can see the concavity starts very high up the blade, like a reverse convex.

i do prefer the WH, but as far as lasers go, this one is da best, aint nothing better for thin cuts.

also kip, what ever heat treat you did on the laser, you should stick to that regiment, it's pretty dope. two other knife nuts i've let try it have both complimented on its springiness and how much they liked it.
 
panda said:
kip%20laser_zpsrpby0gim.jpg


it's actually about same spine thickness as my marko, just ground much thinner, you can see the concavity starts very high up the blade, like a reverse convex.

i do prefer the WH, but as far as lasers go, this one is da best, aint nothing better for thin cuts.

also kip, what ever heat treat you did on the laser, you should stick to that regiment, it's pretty dope. two other knife nuts i've let try it have both complimented on its springiness and how much they liked it.
Click to expand...

How do you all tell the difference of heat treatment? Like what defines it in how it’s used/feel?
 
i'm just overly sensitive to how it feels while in use. what i say comes out as exaggerated when in reality is extremely subtle differences. but to me that 1% difference resonates with me.
 
Thanks for the choil shots of the laser, it looks to be in good shape.

In regards to the differing HT, I'd hate to get all technical (pfft! :laugh:) but the elasticity of steel is pretty much constant regardless of HT - So because the laser is ground thinner over the workhorse, the thicker workhorse will naturally feel more solid (although I ground the tip on that to be thin as well), the laser springier... and there's practically nothing I can do to change it.

Here's a different way of thinking of it: Many of us have seen videos out there of great bladesmiths displaying the strength and tenacity of their heat-treatment by locking their blade vertically in a vice and bending it 90 degrees without having it crack or delaminate:

hqdefault.jpg


Yet if you took a cheap filleting knife, there would be no issue at all in passing the same test due to how thin it is:

img_serreated__lrg_1_1024x1024.jpeg


A workhorse style knife would feel like a crowbar in comparison to the springy laser. There's no way around it, not without beating physics anyway.
In regards to the passaround, I think that the double concave thin-behind-the-edge knife feels awesome! :biggrin: It has a whispy feeling on the stones and a glidey feeling on the board, hard to describe but it feels great! I've always been a laser fanboy though...
 
So what happens when you heat-treat a spring? :)
 
We would need to HT a spring if one-of-two problems occur:
  1. It's too soft and will plasticity deform (i.e bends in a way that it can't return back to its original shape) or...
  2. It's too hard and cracks when a load is applied.
For these reasons, Plasticine and glass would make terrible springs.

If these two points aren't an issue, we can depend on the constant elasticity of steel to do the springy work for us. The elasticity is adjustable not by HT, but by changing the dimensions of the spring... or in the case of kitchen knives, the grind. :thumbsup:

[video=youtube;aXpMAJoez1Q]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aXpMAJoez1Q[/video]

Spring steels can make really good knives! :biggrin:
 
Ooohhh purdy! :doublethumbsup:

I had to laugh at your choice of the background! :lol2:
 
it's not mine, my buddy who did the install told me to read it, i am only interested in the history bit about iwasaki's apprentices.

honestly i really liked your original handle, it just needs a contrasting ferrule, hehe. i have a pic of it with a fake ferrule sharpied on to see what it would look like, shall i post?
 
I really liked the origins handles but that thing looks great with the Wat handle. Love to see the faux ferrule:)
 
Yeah post it! I was considering doing something like that with ink, but it would run off way too easily, or be completely not food safe.

I'm working on my handle game, getting there slowly. My first attempt at a spacer worked out alright, but I'm struggling with wood and all the different finishes.

e5nJE0b.jpg


Would it be a bad idea to buy black wood stain and varnish for the ferrule?

134b0f64-ebdb-47af-a0c0-64b1b3755fd2.jpg
 
Thanks man, I need the funds so I'll etch and polish it a bit better then put it up here for sale soon. This R&D phase of knife-making is expensive and takes up so much time!
 
Had the opportunity to see Kip's latest handles in person. Shape is really good, with a subtle taper. Nice feel in the hand. The spacer looks good and it is seamlessly integrated into the wood. Looking fwd to seeing what you can do with some fancy burls.

The blades attached to them were great. Pretty hamon on one. Very thin behind the edge. Super taper.
 
The phase where all new handle makers hang spacers and contrasts at both ends of the handle?

You can skip that phase.:cool2:
 
Actually yeah, that exact phase haha!

Simple is good, I will try keep it that way.
 
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