Kippington workhorse honyaki pass around

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Kippington said:
Thanks for the choil shots of the laser, it looks to be in good shape.

In regards to the differing HT, I'd hate to get all technical (pfft! :laugh:) but the elasticity of steel is pretty much constant regardless of HT - So because the laser is ground thinner over the workhorse, the thicker workhorse will naturally feel more solid (although I ground the tip on that to be thin as well), the laser springier... and there's practically nothing I can do to change it.

Here's a different way of thinking of it: Many of us have seen videos out there of great bladesmiths displaying the strength and tenacity of their heat-treatment by locking their blade vertically in a vice and bending it 90 degrees without having it crack or delaminate:

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Yet if you took a cheap filleting knife, there would be no issue at all in passing the same test due to how thin it is:

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A workhorse style knife would feel like a crowbar in comparison to the springy laser. There's no way around it, not without beating physics anyway.
In regards to the passaround, I think that the double concave thin-behind-the-edge knife feels awesome! :biggrin: It has a whispy feeling on the stones and a glidey feeling on the board, hard to describe but it feels great! I've always been a laser fanboy though...
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So is it just how hard it feels or something? To tell the difference of heat treatment? And yeah I’ve seen that that’s crazy! Can you make knives that bend 90degrees? I saw an old CBS segment on Kramer and he took one of his knives he made in front of them and did the whole Masterbladesmith test and it still push cut through paper at the end! And he bent it 90 degrees and it just popped right back in place! I was blown away! I’ve seen another guy do it for the MBS test and his knife didn’t bend back... Kramer even cut the 2x4 in half and all the other stuff and it still push cut! I guess that’s why his knives go for so much. I’d be so afraid it’d snap and shatter shrapnel in me
 
Kippington said:
Would it be a bad idea to buy black wood stain and varnish for the ferrule?

134b0f64-ebdb-47af-a0c0-64b1b3755fd2.jpg
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Washing daily will cause the color to fade especially if you're changing the color dramatically. Better options would be to use a wood that's naturally the color you're looking for, buffalo horn blanks are cheap, or try your hand dyeing the wood while stabilizing with resin - costs about $150 to get into but the color sets in permanently. You could also char the wood shou sugi bon style which is good if you need something grippy
 
Dendrobatez said:
Washing daily will cause the color to fade especially if you're changing the color dramatically. Better options would be to use a wood that's naturally the color you're looking for, buffalo horn blanks are cheap, or try your hand dyeing the wood while stabilizing with resin - costs about $150 to get into but the color sets in permanently. You could also char the wood shou sugi bon style which is good if you need something grippy
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Hmm! I didn’t know about all this. There’s So Much in making a knife!
 
I like the feel of horn on the bolster,
and the look of traditional magnolia.

It's a sort of minimalism/understated look
that suits a tradition with more focus on the blade.

edit:

Dalman's handles are great modern
update without loosing the vibe,
suits also the region he's from
 
Thanks for the advice everyone.
It's interesting that so many of you prefer the simpler handles. I thought it was the other way around.
Maybe it's a collector vs. user kind of thing.

TEWNCfarms said:
I saw an old CBS segment on Kramer and he took one of his knives he made in front of them and did the whole Masterbladesmith test and it still push cut through paper at the end! And he bent it 90 degrees and it just popped right back in place! I was blown away!
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At 2:15:

[video=youtube;-OCoS81G2CY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OCoS81G2CY[/video]

There's a reason it looks so different to his normal style of knife - It's a demonstration knife designed to pass those tests, a chefs knife with that much flexibility would be sucky. Maybe it wouldn't be so bad on a filleting knife or a bread knife.
I wouldn't be surprised if this could bend 90 degrees:

51lCmRzsvtL._SY355_.jpg


I reckon I could make a blade that could pass those tests too, but it's a waste of time for me to pursue unless I want to join the American Bladesmith Society.

HRC_64 said:
Whatever you do, please don't copy
neon-handles-to-go. ;)
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However would I find my knives in the dark? :laugh:
 
simple handles FTW. I love one piece handles. And at most ferrule and a spacer.
 
Thanks man.
Now that I've had the opportunity to use stabilized wood in a few of my handles, I can say that as awesome as the stuff is, it doesn't have the same amazing feel as the more natural non-stabilized stuff.
IMO The biggest downfall of the non-stabilized stuff is that it gets stained in the kitchen so easily.
 
Kippington said:
Thanks man.
Now that I've had the opportunity to use stabilized wood in a few of my handles, I can say that as awesome as the stuff is, it doesn't have the same amazing feel as the more natural non-stabilized stuff.
IMO The biggest downfall of the non-stabilized stuff is that it gets stained in the kitchen so easily.
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agree 100%
 
Nemo said:
In my home use, occasionally applying beeswax/parrafin mixture to your handle has prevented this.
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+1 This! I do this with all "simple" handles. Albeit, it's normally preceded by a few applications of mineral oil over a week before using board butter. Doesn't just avoid stains in the kitchen but all that slurry from stones as well.
 
When I get stone slurry/swarf stains on ho wood handles, I put a little olive oil on it and rub it in with my finger nail. The pressure pushes the oil into the wood and the oil suspends the swarf. I blot with a paper towel and most of it comes off. Of course, now the handle is oiled and darker, and they tend to be less rough and grippy than more raw ho wood. The pressure also makes the handle texture kind of burnished.
 
I'm not a fan of stabilized woods unless it's a peice of punky wood I couldn't use otherwise. I prefer using polimerized walnut oil. Put the handle in a little baggie with the oil and let it absorbs as much as it can for a week then pull it out and let it cure for a day or so. The oil hardens and prevents the wood from drying out for long periods
 
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