Monosteel western handle Gyuto discussion thread

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I'd be inclined to try "ghost" rivets if you will. Maybe a pin through each hole and then slightly larger holes in the scales but not all the way through. Just a touch for the pins to set into. Scuff/scratch up the metal tang sides to give some tooth. Then epoxy the hell out of it and call it a day.
Thanks, I will try it. It’s all hand tools so it’s gonna take a while
 
Thanks, I will try it. It’s all hand tools so it’s gonna take a while

I've never tried it but it's what came to mind.

Maybe make "pins" out of brad nails or something.

For a butt plate on a handle I made, I did something similar but with a toothpick on the handle and then a subtle recess in the butt. It was just enough to keep it from sliding around too much when gluing up.
 
Are there any carbon 270's that tend more toward a workhorse type knife eg. thicker spine, taller, more weight but still good steel. Not a beater type workhorse.
 
Are there any carbon 270's that tend more toward a workhorse type knife eg. thicker spine, taller, more weight but still good steel. Not a beater type workhorse.
Blazen Ryu - the western handled version. But I believe it has been discontinued :(

Goko Kogetsu is taller than most monosteel yo-gyutos, but quite thin. Excellent knives nonetheless.
 
Are there any carbon 270's that tend more toward a workhorse type knife eg. thicker spine, taller, more weight but still good steel. Not a beater type workhorse.
I like Sugimoto carbon for that, very good grind, 3mm at the heel and good steel, Mercari has some for much cheaper than retail
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I like Sugimoto carbon for that, very good grind, 3mm at the heel and good steel, Mercari has some for much cheaper than retail
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That looks nice! What's the weight and height on your one?
@4wa1l

Komakiri is what you might be looking for ... Taller thicker spine
I think these are getting too tall but I bet they'd be fun! These ones are designed for semi- frozen food right?
 
Blazen Ryu - the western handled version. But I believe it has been discontinued :(

Goko Kogetsu is taller than most monosteel yo-gyutos, but quite thin. Excellent knives nonetheless.
I really like my 300 shirogami Goko and the 270 is an option here. The SK versions are great value too imo. The main reason I haven't jumped is the thin blade.
 
Are there any carbon 270's that tend more toward a workhorse type knife eg. thicker spine, taller, more weight but still good steel. Not a beater type workhorse.
I like my Masahiro VC steel on the stones; though it's a suji so it doesn't get the board contact a gyuto does.

The carbon western Ashi Gingas I've had (240's) were/are less lasery than what I've ready people say. Not beefy but not crazy thin. I really like them.

Try a Suien from JKI and report back. I've never tried one but I might snag a 240 for fun. The maker is retiring/retired. Mono blue 2, 56mm tall and 269 nice grams? Hell yeah.
https://www.japaneseknifeimports.com/collections/suien/products/suien-vc-270mm-gyuto
 
I like my Masahiro VC steel on the stones; though it's a suji so it doesn't get the board contact a gyuto does.

The carbon western Ashi Gingas I've had (240's) were/are less lasery than what I've ready people say. Not beefy but not crazy thin. I really like them.

Try a Suien from JKI and report back. I've never tried one but I might snag a 240 for fun. The maker is retiring/retired. Mono blue 2, 56mm tall and 269 nice grams? Hell yeah.
https://www.japaneseknifeimports.com/collections/suien/products/suien-vc-270mm-gyuto
The 240 Suien VC is one of my favourites. I expect the 270 to be even beefier. As for the use you have in mind, weight will help but what really matters is the edge you put on it. Let the bevels be strongly convexed, and ending more conservatively than you normally would do.
 
The carbon western Ashi Gingas I've had (240's) were/are less lasery than what I've ready people say. Not beefy but not crazy thin. I really like them.
Same experience here. I believe it's all about the grind. The spine is thin (2-2.5mm) but the convexing goes all the way down to the edge, so they are not super thin BTE. Probably on purpose to make them more robust for pro use.
 
4mm handle thickest, 3.3mm heel to 1.8mm halfway to 0.7mm 1 cm from tip
360mm edge
296g
62mm tall

Great steel hard enough and springy, not glassy like harder masakane, not as hard as Takahashi, good middle ground of abrasion resistance. Idk what steel . . . This one's a weird one lol. Feels like a different spicy white I guess. Some light alloy carbon. Ultra thin toward the tip and overall with heft and heel and spine. Misono was one of the easiest to abrade by contrast. This one was tough rounding spines and choils

Severely exposed tang and had to file it down. Did this a couple weeks ago. Rust eraser and scotchbrite finish

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4mm handle thickest, 3.3mm heel to 1.8mm halfway to 0.7mm 1 cm from tip
360mm edge
296g
62mm tall

Great steel hard enough and springy, not glassy like harder masakane, not as hard as Takahashi, good middle ground of abrasion resistance. Idk what steel . . . This one's a weird one lol. Feels like a different spicy white I guess. Some light alloy carbon. Ultra thin toward the tip and overall with heft and heel and spine. Misono was one of the easiest to abrade by contrast. This one was tough rounding spines and choils

Severely exposed tang and had to file it down. Did this a couple weeks ago. Rust eraser and scotchbrite finish

View attachment 310918
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I've tried to get that kanji translated (I've seen a few of them) but it's stylised and non of my Japanese friends can work it out.
edit: the 240 & 210 mm ones are quite thin at the heel.
 
Thanks, I will try it. It’s all hand tools so it’s gonna take a while
I've never tried it but it's what came to mind.

Maybe make "pins" out of brad nails or something.

For a butt plate on a handle I made, I did something similar but with a toothpick on the handle and then a subtle recess in the butt. It was just enough to keep it from sliding around too much when gluing up.
"Hidden pin" I think is the term you're looking for. You can just use a straight rod and cut pins slightly shorter than your intended width. Brass pinstock from a knife making supplier is cheap, like $1. Use the tang as a guide to trace out the shape and hole locations for drilling.

I did similar with an old TF project. I didn't have a drill press at the time, so the holes were made with a hand drill. If the tang is not tapered, then it's easy. A tapered tang, you'll need to do a little geometry to get the angle of the pin holes close enough (or just oversize the hole).

https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/a-small-tf-project-round-2.61030/
 
Tokyo made Sabatier clone

160g
210mm edge
47mm tall
130mm ferrule and handle length
17mm ferrule length. Aluminum eased rectangular ferrule
13.4mm forged bolster width to 5.5mm after bolster to 1.5mm halfway to 0.5mm 1cm from tip

Steel is springy and softer, alot like the very old misono carbon I had. This takes a better edge, a lot like a good white 3 but softer side, 57-58 hrc, closer to 57. Very flat grind, righty bias, convexing close to edge right side. Oddly, feels harder than my super old misono, but softer than vintage masakane.

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