Monosteel western handle Gyuto discussion thread

Find deals on amazon
Kitchen Knife Forums

Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Jovidah said:
It doesn't help that they deliver the handles steamed but essentially low on oil. I've always just dumped them in a mineral oil bath for a few days and that seems to have prevented the worst of this to happen.
My gut feeling is that in the long term you'll want to treat it with something that doesn't wash out as easily like some board butter or something like tung oil.

This is also why I'm inclined to recommend POM handles on the K-series instead, since that sidesteps the issue.
Click to expand...
You are absolutely right. The wood scales was a bit dry when I received it. I gave it a couple of layers of a special Macadamia oil that comes with the 1922 line of knives they also make. I figured it could be used on the k-line as well.

In the future I might use an oil we have here called "kitchen table oil" it's made for wooden kitchen counters and are foodsafe. It's made on a basis of linseed oil and therefore dry/hardens a bit.

Other then that. The knife has really impressed me. Cuts so smooth and without wedging in dense stuff. But still have some weight and stiffness. A combo I like.
 
Curious to hear what sort of edge finish people prefer on their cheap carbon monos.
 
blokey said:
I like to use high grit, most mono carbons can take a screaming edge from them, usually finish on Kitayama 8K
Click to expand...
I see pretty broad preferences even when parameters are limited to carbon edges. Was interested to hear if people felt that stuff like SK was more suited to a lower grit finish than something more pure like W1
 
Last edited:
Vaughan said:
I see pretty broad preferences even when parameters are limited to carbon edges. Was interested to hear if people felt that stuff like SK was more suited to a lower grit finish than something more pure like W1
Click to expand...
Not sure whether it has to do with purety, but with a coarser grain I prefer bigger jumps; with a finer grained a more polished edge. The idea is enhancing the steel's properties, not fighting them.
 
Benuser said:
Not sure whether it has to do with purety, but with a coarser grain I prefer bigger jumps; with a finer grained a more polished edge. The idea is enhancing the steel's properties, not fighting them.
Click to expand...
Yeah I might have used different terminology but this is in effect what I was getting at
 
Bit of work on Glestain, not hard to thin, steel feels ok, the welded section made the grind looks weird but it is your usual Japanese right hand convex
IMG_3387.jpeg
IMG_3388.jpeg
 
Forgot to post it, Minamoto Masahisa “Yasugi Sliver” steel gyuto, I’m 95% sure this is the same as Minamoto Masamori sold by Yuri Sen, and 60% sure it’s the same as Jikko Premium master II ginsan. Grind only looks bit different from Jikko but quite close, steel also feels similar, not as responsive as Moriya Munemitsu Ginsan but better Kazutada/Gotou VG1. It’s $80 without shipping from Japan, so not bad at all.
IMG_2837.jpeg
IMG_2839.jpeg

After some working
IMG_3018.jpeg


If anyone’s interested I put it up in Stainless Beaters thread on BST
 
I think I've asked before, but is the Suien VC gyuto available anywhere other than JKI, ideally somewhere in Japan?
 
Pulled the trigger on this Goko mystery stainless Monosteel gyuto and it’s been a very interesting knife to use. By far the thinnest knife I’ve had (at spine at least) and remains very thin throughout most of its geometry yet has very little flex compared to even much thicker sanmai with convexity. The steel feels really hard to me, like harder than all the ginsan, B1 and AS I’ve tried, and doesn’t really complain even with some rock chopping. I haven’t had the chance to put it on stones yet but the oob edge felt more refined/keen than I’ve been able to get on ginsan. Super curious if anyone knows what kind of steel this is.

The imitation mahogany was somewhat shrunken from the tang and the rivets and I spent quite a while sanding the rough corners so it’s comfortable to use, just hoping it doesn’t shrink further 😅

IMG_1624.jpeg

IMG_1625.jpeg

IMG_1626.jpeg

IMG_1630.jpeg
 
Last edited:
blokey said:
Some Robert Herder stuff, quite nice, all nicely thin, the school on K5 is kind misleading since the edge is quite thinner than it suggests. Only thing is I accidentally peeled off a corned right off the bat… not sure if this is the problem @Jovidah talked about… But over all the handle is surprisingly nice, I thought it would be too thin but it fits nicely, the blade is well grounded and cuts good, slightly better than 180mm Goko in sweet potato even. (Very little margin tho) Buckels is fun and almost razor grind.
View attachment 299357View attachment 299358View attachment 299359
Click to expand...
Knives and tools actually partial refunded me $35 for it, they are really nice, was not expecting that.
 
More work done on Glestain, I really grow to like it, with some thinning it performs wonderfully, the original convex grind is good just slightly thick. I like the steel, takes a good and stable edge from Gesshin 6k, feels better and less sticky than VG1 and other 440 series I’ve tried, easy to raise a burr and the burr is not that hard to remove. The granton actually works for once. For comparison here is Glestain and really thin Goko SK on thick sweet potato. Tho I’d say for the price it’s kind hard to recommend, but if you want ultimate food release and can do some modifications your self it is quite fun.
IMG_3706.jpeg
IMG_3708.jpeg

 
I've wondered what I'd find if I took the handle off. For me it's not so much about comfort. The handle is fine in those terms. But it's about balance and stability. It feels flimsy. Now, given the price, it's a great deal, and I use it for messy work without concern.
 
blokey said:
Finally cleaned this Takahashi, strip the rotten handle and removed the rust, if only I know how to rehandle a western lol…
View attachment 308398
Click to expand...

I'd be inclined to try "ghost" rivets if you will. Maybe a pin through each hole and then slightly larger holes in the scales but not all the way through. Just a touch for the pins to set into. Scuff/scratch up the metal tang sides to give some tooth. Then epoxy the hell out of it and call it a day.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top