I like my 180, good grind, steel feels good for SK, didn’t open the package for 240 thobut how is the knife?
I like my 180, good grind, steel feels good for SK, didn’t open the package for 240 thobut how is the knife?
Don't sleep on that little breakfast knife. It's a razor sharp butter knife. Genius!Some Robert Herder stuff, quite nice, all nicely thin, the school on K5 is kind misleading since the edge is quite thinner than it suggests. Only thing is I accidentally peeled off a corned right off the bat… not sure if this is the problem @Jovidah talked about… But over all the handle is surprisingly nice, I thought it would be too thin but it fits nicely, the blade is well grounded and cuts good, slightly better than 180mm Goko in sweet potato even. (Very little margin tho) Buckels is fun and almost razor grind.
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I happen to know 14C28N as used by two Thiers makers: at 60Rc by K-Sabatier, and by Goyon-Chazeau at 58Rc. Have called it AEB-L on steroids: fine grained, without the buttery feeling, both on stones and on the board. The only stainless I know that feels like a good carbon.Anyone tried Coutellerie Chambriard? They honestly looks really nice, 14c28n is a good steel, but there’s very little information here
https://strataportland.com/products...fe-juniper-handle?_pos=7&_sid=259b55d69&_ss=r
Edit: found that they list their 14c28n at 57-59, not very hard but probably pretty tough, should be better than the usual x50 stuff…
https://www.coutellerie-chambriard.com/en/knives/the-grands-gourmets-kitchen-serie/?cn-reloaded=1
Agree.I happen to know 14C28N as used by two Thiers makers: at 60Rc by K-Sabatier, and by Goyon-Chazeau at 58Rc. Have called it AEB-L on steroids: fine grained, without the buttery feeling, both on stones and on the board. The only stainless I know that feels like a good carbon.
Found better price by same seller at Rakuten, Gotou Hamono is doing some good stuffSame shop from the one I bought from Mercari, but more expensive tho
https://jp-knives.com/collections/gotou-cutlery
but how is the knife?
The actual grind is not as thick as the choil suggest on mine, tho still not thin, a good thinning can still bring a lot of performance to the game. Good thing is the grind is very indicative on where you should thin
The right side still looks very convexed and the left side relatively flat, I think they just cut the edge bevel on the left side at the heel at a lower angle so the choil ends up looking more symmetrical. You can see in the first picture how the bevel is noticeably wider at the heel.Is it me, or does that choil shot make it look much less asymmetrical than they used to be?
This seems to be the case. See photos which show this in better detail.The right side still looks very convexed and the left side relatively flat, I think they just cut the edge bevel on the left side at the heel at a lower angle so the choil ends up looking more symmetrical. You can see in the first picture how the bevel is noticeably wider at the heel.
They usually cut the final edge on a wheel or belt from the factory so it’s easy to slip up a bit and the edge bevel ends up wider at the tip/heel a lot of the time with these knives, especially the more budget, higher production ones like Masahiro. I’ve had it on Misonos, Tojiros, Macs, etc and a bunch of vintage knives.
Looks kind like Takahashi to me, I got two of them, one still in process of restoration. You can try it on store, both of mine are quite hard.Just picked up this big gal, I saw the spine thickness and knew I had to have it. 5mm, 350g, and cuts surprisingly well. Someone has done a bit of work to it (super polished edge), but I plan on a bit more after using it for a bit. Would love to hear your thoughts @blokey regarding profile.
If anyone had any ideas regarding the knife maker or any other info, I'd love to know, my kanji is non existent unfortunately!
I got this from a very small site Chef and a Knife, they have heaps of well priced vintage western monos, great if you're in Aus and used to price gouging (no I'm not affiliated in any way, just very happy!) https://chefandaknife.com.au/collections/vintage
@refcast should know more about ithttps://cressonblog.blogspot.com/2012/11/blog-post_20.html
picture of masakane factory and some info
a lot of kitchen knife info on this blog, specifically on 高橋刃物製作所. Takahashi cutlery or mitsutomo, a specialist for gyuto.
I think this is my favorite blog I've found so far. A lot of gyuto history or manufacturing and OEM work described. So ****ing cool. Absolutely amazing to me. The manufacturer closed in 2013.
https://cressonblog.blogspot.com/2012/11/blog-post_30.html
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BTW that site is really good, lots of nice stuff, thanksJust picked up this big gal, I saw the spine thickness and knew I had to have it. 5mm, 350g, and cuts surprisingly well. Someone has done a bit of work to it (super polished edge), but I plan on a bit more after using it for a bit. Would love to hear your thoughts @blokey regarding profile.
If anyone had any ideas regarding the knife maker or any other info, I'd love to know, my kanji is non existent unfortunately!
I got this from a very small site Chef and a Knife, they have heaps of well priced vintage western monos, great if you're in Aus and used to price gouging (no I'm not affiliated in any way, just very happy!) https://chefandaknife.com.au/collections/vintage
They do look very similar, will be interesting to see what @refcast thinks. The four kanji on your top knife do look the same as mine, little bit hard to tell though. Will give it a session on the stones when I'm back home next week!Looks kind like Takahashi to me, I got two of them, one still in process of restoration. You can try it on store, both of mine are quite hard.
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@refcast should know more about it
I can't say I ever had corners break off (or saw that it was a common thing), but the more common mode of failure is that eventually that little protruding front corner of the wood gets moisture (for example from cleaning) , dries out again, and the cycles eventually get some shrinkage that pulls the wood slightly off the handle there, so you get a bit of a gap. It's mostly a cosmetical issue.Some Robert Herder stuff, quite nice, all nicely thin, the school on K5 is kind misleading since the edge is quite thinner than it suggests. Only thing is I accidentally peeled off a corned right off the bat… not sure if this is the problem @Jovidah talked about… But over all the handle is surprisingly nice, I thought it would be too thin but it fits nicely, the blade is well grounded and cuts good, slightly better than 180mm Goko in sweet potato even. (Very little margin tho) Buckels is fun and almost razor grind.
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The few knives I had in 14c28n were nice steel.Anyone tried Coutellerie Chambriard? They honestly looks really nice, 14c28n is a good steel, but there’s very little information here
https://strataportland.com/products...fe-juniper-handle?_pos=7&_sid=259b55d69&_ss=r
Edit: found that they list their 14c28n at 57-59, not very hard but probably pretty tough, should be better than the usual x50 stuff…
https://www.coutellerie-chambriard.com/en/knives/the-grands-gourmets-kitchen-serie/?cn-reloaded=1
Yeah the KSab 200 series are actually quite nice knives for the price, but there seems to be a significant chance of getting one with a warp or a bend. They don't make a fuss about exchanging it, but you have to absolutely make sure to check upon receipt because there's definitly a chance that the first one you get won't be entirely straight.Agree.
I've had a Ksab 200 series 180 mm chef knife in 14C28N for some time, and used it a lot. First it seemed a bit uninteresting, not much fuss about it. The fit&finish was descent, but it was slightly bend(still is)
After a good thinning and sharpening it turned out to be a great little chef knife with a nice profile and a really nice edge retention. The steel seems pretty tough and I have experienced no chipping
Yeah that would be a concern too, I saw a similar failure to mine hereThe few knives I had in 14c28n were nice steel.
My main concern with that would be the handle design. That downward curve is similar to what you see on the Wüsthof classic Ikon and I absolutely hate it there, starts hurting my wrist after using it for a while.
It doesn't help that they deliver the handles steamed but essentially low on oil. I've always just dumped them in a mineral oil bath for a few days and that seems to have prevented the worst of this to happen.Yeah that would be a concern too, I saw a similar failure to mine here
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/herder-windmühleknives-k2-knife-review.20066/
just pulled trigger on a morihei hagane, hoping it is indeed a nicer level beaterSince Bernal is going to have 20% off sale soon, it is a chance to grab some nice monos, they have NOS Masakane, Naozumi, Kikumori Nihonkou and Morihei Hagane
I’m quite interested in Morihei Hagane, it is described as in SKS steel, a SK variant with added vanadium.
https://bernalcutlery.com/collectio...i-hisamoto-hagane-240mm-gyuto-sk-pakka-handle
What do you think of that Glestain's handle?Some main stream stainless stuff, Glestain and Masahiro MV, the Glestain is very asymmetrical, the grind is not as thick as the chili but still thick, cuts better than a Wusthof pro but not Kagayaki/Kazutada, steel is more on tough side, not the best to sharpen, great food release tho, more like a Japanese version of heavy duty western chef.
It's fine, hollowed stainless, probably takes dishwasher better, grip is not badWhat do you think of that Glestain's handle?
I was considering returning it because of the slightly warped blade.Yeah the KSab 200 series are actually quite nice knives for the price, but there seems to be a significant chance of getting one with a warp or a bend. They don't make a fuss about exchanging it, but you have to absolutely make sure to check upon receipt because there's definitly a chance that the first one you get won't be entirely straight.
It's a shame because other than that I quite like them, and they could be a great 'normie-knife' for people who rockchop.
The 180 slicer is actually my favorite knife for trimming meats.
I think the main reason they fly under the radar is that the design is absolutely boring.
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