Similar knives to Toyama, but western?

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labor of love said:
Great thinning job slim. How hard was it to thin honyaki compared to other stuff?
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Assuming Lim hasn't done any additional work, then I would guess that thinning was done by me. Hope he doesn't mind me throwing my 2 cents in! (Glad you're enjoying the Hiromoto man!)

The blade was brand new at the time and I felt it was too thick behind the edge, a fairly common opinion with Hiromotos. Honestly, I kinda of wish I had thinned it a bit more, but hey, you can always take more away but you can't put it back. The technique is not really any different or harder then thinning any other double-bevel, its just a matter of a bigger time investment since there is no softer cladding and the core steel is hardened to 63-64 (?). I started at 220 (though I would suggest Atoma 120 or similar first if you got it) then up to 400, before polishing. The majority of the steel came off in the mm or so right behind the edge, slowly decreasing as I worked my up to about 25-30% of the way to the spine.
 
Looking at watanabes, carbon knife co will be getting a shipment in in a few days here. Just curious if anyone here can shed some light on the major differences between the pro series and the KU watanabe.

Also thanks for that spine pic, after some thinning that thing looks like it has nice convex
 
tgfencer said:
Assuming Lim hasn't done any additional work, then I would guess that thinning was done by me. Hope he doesn't mind me throwing my 2 cents in! (Glad you're enjoying the Hiromoto man!)

The blade was brand new at the time and I felt it was too thick behind the edge, a fairly common opinion with Hiromotos. Honestly, I kinda of wish I had thinned it a bit more, but hey, you can always take more away but you can't put it back. The technique is not really any different or harder then thinning any other double-bevel, its just a matter of a bigger time investment since there is no softer cladding and the core steel is hardened to 63-64 (?). I started at 220 (though I would suggest Atoma 120 or similar first if you got it) then up to 400, before polishing. The majority of the steel came off in the mm or so right behind the edge, slowly decreasing as I worked my up to about 25-30% of the way to the spine.
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Thanks TG
 
tgfencer said:
Assuming Lim hasn't done any additional work, then I would guess that thinning was done by me. Hope he doesn't mind me throwing my 2 cents in! (Glad you're enjoying the Hiromoto man!)

The blade was brand new at the time and I felt it was too thick behind the edge, a fairly common opinion with Hiromotos. Honestly, I kinda of wish I had thinned it a bit more, but hey, you can always take more away but you can't put it back. The technique is not really any different or harder then thinning any other double-bevel, its just a matter of a bigger time investment since there is no softer cladding and the core steel is hardened to 63-64 (?). I started at 220 (though I would suggest Atoma 120 or similar first if you got it) then up to 400, before polishing. The majority of the steel came off in the mm or so right behind the edge, slowly decreasing as I worked my up to about 25-30% of the way to the spine.
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Actually no more thinning needed! Otherwise the base food separating qualities would be lost. Right now it has an excellent balance between push cutting and slicing. Any further thinning and it would lose the push cutting element.
 
fatboylim said:
Actually no more thinning needed! Otherwise the base food separating qualities would be lost. Right now it has an excellent balance between push cutting and slicing. Any further thinning and it would lose the push cutting element.
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Good to hear, man. Guess it just goes to show that its always a good rule of thumb to test a blade throughout the thinning process.

As for the western handle conversation, I agree that rehandling is always an easy option with Japanese makers who dont often make westerns or whose westerns are pricey.
 
i second either getting a hiromoto and thin it or go hidden western - this allows you to get the handle you want and they can get quite sexy...

N5vipdDl.jpg
 
I’ll probay end up getting both a Watanabe and a hiromoto. A watanabe bescause I love my Toyama, and a hiromoto because I need a western WH. Red liners are my go to
1zwzy3r.jpg


but I’ve been itching to do a rehandle with bright blue curly maple. Similar to this google image
24cy106.gif
 
inzite said:
i second either getting a hiromoto and thin it or go hidden western - this allows you to get the handle you want and they can get quite sexy...

N5vipdDl.jpg
Click to expand...
Unrelated note, is that a Darkhardt roll?
 
Danzo said:
I’ll probay end up getting both a Watanabe and a hiromoto. A watanabe bescause I love my Toyama, and a hiromoto because I need a western WH. Red liners are my go to
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the hiromoto takes an impressive edge.

Graydon Decollibus makes some fine hidden or full tang western handles...

FdVvxdIl.jpg
 
Meesterleester said:
Does anyone know if the bolsterless Hiromoto honyakis will be available again?
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pretty sure you can only buy used now. but I do love my 180 hiromoto honyaki santoku though, even more now after it's been spa'd by JKI.

rPS7R7wl.jpg


KlJn14Gl.jpg
 
inzite said:
pretty sure you can only buy used now. but I do love my 180 hiromoto honyaki santoku though, even more now after it's been spa'd by JKI.

rPS7R7wl.jpg


KlJn14Gl.jpg
Click to expand...

Yes!! Yours in particular is why I asked. New they look great, but that thing is insane
 
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