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Great thinning job slim. How hard was it to thin honyaki compared to other stuff?
Great thinning job slim. How hard was it to thin honyaki compared to other stuff?
Thanks TGAssuming Lim hasn't done any additional work, then I would guess that thinning was done by me. Hope he doesn't mind me throwing my 2 cents in! (Glad you're enjoying the Hiromoto man!)
The blade was brand new at the time and I felt it was too thick behind the edge, a fairly common opinion with Hiromotos. Honestly, I kinda of wish I had thinned it a bit more, but hey, you can always take more away but you can't put it back. The technique is not really any different or harder then thinning any other double-bevel, its just a matter of a bigger time investment since there is no softer cladding and the core steel is hardened to 63-64 (?). I started at 220 (though I would suggest Atoma 120 or similar first if you got it) then up to 400, before polishing. The majority of the steel came off in the mm or so right behind the edge, slowly decreasing as I worked my up to about 25-30% of the way to the spine.
Just curious if anyone here can shed some light on the major differences between the pro series and the KU watanabe.
I would rehandle a Wa to your taste and specs....
Actually no more thinning needed! Otherwise the base food separating qualities would be lost. Right now it has an excellent balance between push cutting and slicing. Any further thinning and it would lose the push cutting element.Assuming Lim hasn't done any additional work, then I would guess that thinning was done by me. Hope he doesn't mind me throwing my 2 cents in! (Glad you're enjoying the Hiromoto man!)
The blade was brand new at the time and I felt it was too thick behind the edge, a fairly common opinion with Hiromotos. Honestly, I kinda of wish I had thinned it a bit more, but hey, you can always take more away but you can't put it back. The technique is not really any different or harder then thinning any other double-bevel, its just a matter of a bigger time investment since there is no softer cladding and the core steel is hardened to 63-64 (?). I started at 220 (though I would suggest Atoma 120 or similar first if you got it) then up to 400, before polishing. The majority of the steel came off in the mm or so right behind the edge, slowly decreasing as I worked my up to about 25-30% of the way to the spine.
Actually no more thinning needed! Otherwise the base food separating qualities would be lost. Right now it has an excellent balance between push cutting and slicing. Any further thinning and it would lose the push cutting element.
i second either getting a hiromoto and thin it or go hidden western - this allows you to get the handle you want and they can get quite sexy...
Unrelated note, is that a Darkhardt roll?i second either getting a hiromoto and thin it or go hidden western - this allows you to get the handle you want and they can get quite sexy...
i second either getting a hiromoto and thin it or go hidden western - this allows you to get the handle you want and they can get quite sexy...
YupUnrelated note, is that a Darkhardt roll?
Unrelated note, is that a Darkhardt roll?
show off
Ill probay end up getting both a Watanabe and a hiromoto. A watanabe bescause I love my Toyama, and a hiromoto because I need a western WH. Red liners are my go to
Does anyone know if the bolsterless Hiromoto honyakis will be available again?
Does anyone know if the bolsterless Hiromoto honyakis will be available again?
pretty sure you can only buy used now. but I do love my 180 hiromoto honyaki santoku though, even more now after it's been spa'd by JKI.
They havent been available for awhile, maybe a couple years. You could email koki though.
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