which zwilling j a henckel knives?

[Benuser]

Another possible cause is a much too thick blade behind the edge. Try some thinning. You may start by sharpening at a slightly lower angle than the one you've used for the very edge, and going further by reducing a little more.

 

[ThEoRy]

Actually it was more likely from 'wobbling' while sharpening. When you wobble you aren't holding your knife at one angle throughout your sharpening strokes, and you can get those sharpening scuffs. Everyone gets them in the beginning, don't worry about it.

If you want to get them out you can polish them out with automotive sandpaper lubricated with dishwashing soap. It helps if you back the sandpaper with something and only move the sandpaper in one direction (I move from heel to tip.)

I've had a couple issues with this myself early on as well.

The "problems" that arise are this:

You will never get it the same as the factory polish was.

What ever you do to one side, you have to do to the other as well.


It's a long drawn out process that takes time and patience. But you will learn from it. Learn not to scuff up your blades again that is.

 

[Andrew H]

I've had a couple issues with this myself early on as well.

The "problems" that arise are this:

You will never get it the same as the factory polish was.

What ever you do to one side, you have to do to the other as well.


It's a long drawn out process that takes time and patience. But you will learn from it. Learn not to scuff up your blades again that is.

Very true. Unless the scuffs really bother you it would probably be best to just leave them.

 

[SpikeC]

Or buy a belt sander!

 

[Rottman]

You can get a decent finish on a blade with 320/400/600/800 wet-dry paper on a softer backing with just sanding from spine to edge. Might not look exactly like the factory finish but not far off either

 

[Tatletz]

Very true. Unless the scuffs really bother you it would probably be best to just leave them.

Yes, I might just leave them. I wanted to show some photos of the knife, but can't figure out how to attach them. And thanks a lot for all the comments!

 

[Eamon Burke]

Glad you got it figured out. You will also get scuffs from very muddy stones. Sometimes it's un avoidable, and there is no practical way to remove them. They aren't much though. Another reason why carbon steel can be more utilitarian...a patina would cover mud scuffs right up.

 

[Tatletz]

Glad you got it figured out. You will also get scuffs from very muddy stones. Sometimes it's un avoidable, and there is no practical way to remove them. They aren't much though. Another reason why carbon steel can be more utilitarian...a patina would cover mud scuffs right up.

Thank you Eamon, I must first get my sharpening skills right. A friend gave me this DVD => Korin - The Chefs Edge Knife Sharpening. It's about japanese knives, but according to some western knife manufacturers(Wusthof and Henckels in particular) 10-15 degrees is the correct angle when using a whetstone.

 

[Benuser]

Thank you Eamon, I must first get my sharpening skills right. A friend gave me this DVD => Korin - The Chefs Edge Knife Sharpening. It's about japanese knives, but according to some western knife manufacturers(Wusthof and Henckels in particular) 10-15 degrees is the correct angle when using a whetstone.

Wüsthof used to deliver @ 17 degree, and only recently dropped it to 13 degree after changing HT and geometry. Such values might be a goal rather than an instruction. With a given German knife first look a the actual edge, do some thinning and reduce the angle a little. When performance is concerned, the angle of the very edge is much less important than the thickness behind the edge.

 

[dschonbrun]

The Angle choice seems to be variable because it is both a function of the steel, and also the longevity of the egde.

 

[Tatletz]

 

[Tatletz]

?!

 

[Tatletz]

I am sorry for the above empty posts, but I was trying to upload some photos unsuccessfully

 

[Crothcipt]

it is recommended to post on a dif. site and link it. ie google +, photobucket ect. hope this helps.

 

[Tatletz]

At last, I managed to post these photos using Photobucket.

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[ChefDad]

I have been using JA Henckels for over 30 years, the Professional Series is my favorite. German forged steel is hard and holds an edge forever, the exception is the flexible boning knife, but it's not suppose to be hard and stiff.
I happen to have a 250th anniversary commemorative set that has never been out of the box, I have never seen another one like it. I have a couple of the Four Star Series but like the feel of the professional better.
You can have your stainless steel, Japanese steel, and any other, I like what I like and that is the Henckel, sorry.

 

[daveb]

:zombiegrave: Wow, waking up a three year old thread takes some perseverance. At one point I thought the Henckels 4 Star were the best knives ever. Still have several hanging around. Welcome.

 

[Benuser]

German steel being hard and holding forever?? No. Rather soft and complaising if abused. But certainly not hard. Welcome, by the way.

 

[gman]

After using a set of Ginsu knives for a decade I bought a set of Henckels and thought they were the best thing ever. Then I bought some Japanese carbon knives, and now think they are the best thing ever. It's really impossible to appreciate the difference until you've tried.

To be fair, my Henckels still get used by my wife, who is afraid of cutting herself on the Japanese knives, and by me for use on frozen food and food with bones, and we still use the steak knives.