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Looks like a very useful shape for a single bevel utility knife. Nice.
 
Same here. I'm not big into single bevels, but love the honesuki/garasuki shapes. I use my double-sided Carter Muteki as a hefty petty... What you are showing looks great and I'd definitely be interested in a narrower than usual shape. Just wondering: Do you also sharpen the top of the tip - not sure how to say it, but you'll know what I mean.

Stefan
 
apicius9 said:
Same here. I'm not big into single bevels, but love the honesuki/garasuki shapes. I use my double-sided Carter Muteki as a hefty petty... What you are showing looks great and I'd definitely be interested in a narrower than usual shape. Just wondering: Do you also sharpen the top of the tip - not sure how to say it, but you'll know what I mean.

Stefan
Click to expand...

Thanks guys.

The picture distorts the actual shape. The knife is very narrow and very thin. For instance, my Watanabe honesuki is 4mm over the heel. This knife is 2.5. I will have to take a pic with a camera directly above the knife to show the actual shape and size.

The tip is for decoration. It could be sharpened in principle, but I don't see any real use for it.

M
 
Better pictures

DSC_1715.jpg

DSC_1716.jpg

DSC_1717.jpg

DSC_1718.jpg

DSC_1719.jpg

52100
2.5mm at the heel with moderate distal taper
140mm on the edge
40mm tall
79g (without handle)
Hamaguriba edge (need to re-set ura and re-touch up edge and shinogi line after machine finish)
Back hollow ground
Machine finish
 
Nice design and very clean work!! I can't wait to see this one finished. :thumbsup:
 
Nice knives, Marko. I especially like that 180 gyuto.
How would you use baking soda as an anti-rust agent?
 
I typically grind to about 10/1000 on the edge and then take it to the sharpening station to set the bevels by hand, then go back to some more grinding and then onto polishing. As I grind, I frequently dip blade in water to stay cool, same when I sharpen, to rinse the blade. If there is no anti-rust agent in the water, your blade will start rusting on you.
 
I haven't had that problem with the O1 that I'm using. We have pretty soft water here, though.
 
SpikeC said:
I haven't had that problem with the O1 that I'm using. We have pretty soft water here, though.
Click to expand...

I do all major grinding with a 50 grit belt, so scratches are deep and that's where discoloration is visible right away.

M
 
Right now I'm grinding a blade with 24, but I have started with 36 and another with 50. We have magic water here in PDX.
 
apicius9 said:
Same here. I'm not big into single bevels, but love the honesuki/garasuki shapes. I use my double-sided Carter Muteki as a hefty petty... What you are showing looks great and I'd definitely be interested in a narrower than usual shape. Just wondering: Do you also sharpen the top of the tip - not sure how to say it, but you'll know what I mean.

Stefan
Click to expand...

I think I will make honesuki/utility and sabaki my first production knives, while I am practice grinding other types. Now the big question is what would you prefer - more sharpness (edge stability is excellent and edge retention is excellent) or slightly less sharpness, but with excellent edge stability and phenomenal edge retention? The latter will be a little harder to sharpen though.

M
 
Marko Tsourkan said:
I think I will make honesuki/utility and sabaki my first production knives, while I am practice grinding other types. Now the big question is what would you prefer - more sharpness (edge stability is excellent and edge retention is excellent) or slightly less sharpness, but with excellent edge stability and phenomenal edge retention? The latter will be a little harder to sharpen though.

M
Click to expand...

For a honesuki, definitely option #2. If you need a scary sharp utility knife you can always use a petty. A pretty dang sharp honesuki with great edge retention is perfect for butchering lots of stuff in one session. The sabaki I am not sure. If it it is a utility knife, #1 is fine, if someone plans on using it as a boning/butchering knife, then I would go #2 as well.
 
Thanks John,
that is what I thought, but it great to get a reaffirmation from a pro.

M
 
OK, one down, one to go. What handle material for pro kitchen? Any natural materials would be preferred?

M
 
See if you can get a piece of Butch's micarta. Durable and uniquely beautiful.

Pesky
 
I need to select material that is readily available. How does stabilized wood fare in the pro kitchen?

M
 
Stabilized wood is no issue in the kitchen. I have really never had an issue with any wood handle in the pro setting as long as properly cared for.
 
I like stabilized wood but g10/micarta is more durable.

Pesky
 
No problems with any wood really, stabilized or not. I have some unstabilized ho wood handles and masur birch. Just some beeswax and oil and they have been fine.

I would much prefer a natural wood handle to a micarta or other synthetic material. I love the cocobolo/micarta handles Devin makes for the ITK, I just don't really care for the handles that are mostly synthetic.
 
I was just wondering if there are any Health Department regulations that require certain materials not be uses in pro kitchen.

Natural material (wood and horn) are my favorites. I have a good supply of quality cocobolo. Excellent wood for handles.

M
 
federal regulations have yet to create a guideline on knife handle material. On the State level, it probably varies a little throughout, but no handle restrictions.

OSHA would probably be the first to jump in on this and create some kind of guideline/restrictions if this gets to the point where a larger number people in commercial kitchens start customizing knife handles. :biggrin:
 
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