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The chart is for Shapton kuromaku stones. The first third or so seems to be the most relevant to members here. Attached is a quick and rough translation. For carbon steels knives I have had good success with the 320/2k/12k progression recommended for petty knives (and Swedish steel). I preferred...

Found the composition of V-gin 1, 2, and 3B on the Japanese site V-gin2 is .85-.95% C and 7-8% Cr V-gin1 is .95-1.05% C, 4.5-5.5% Cr, .8-1.2% Mo, an .2-.5% V (interestingly Ni content is not included in the Japanese version) Also, the Japanese website says that soft stainless clad with VG1...

Looks like a natural stone from Tamba, Kyoto. The yellow sticker literally says Tamba Blue stone (finishing stone) 天然砥石 | Ten nen toishi | Natural Waterstone 亀　| kame | from kameoka 特選刃物用 | Tokusen hamono you | Special/high quality for edged tools Sticker 丹波青砥石 | Tanba aotoishi | Tamba blue...

I have a Masahiro VC hankotsu and 2 different honesukis (Misono Swedish and Golden Deer). Size wise all are around 150mm, which I find comfortable. As for sharpening, the Misono sharpens easier than the Masahiro which sharpens easier than the Golden Deer. The Golden Deer can be purchased through...

While my jump isn't as wide as Benuser's suggestion, a 320 to 2k progression works well for breaking down sub-primals into steaks to cutting through crusty roasts. I use this progression on my vintage Misono Swedish sujihiki (330mm, ~hrc61*) and a Masahiro VC hankotsu (150mm, ~hrc62-3*)...

+1 According to this study, silvadene may not be the best treatment for (minor) burns. Perhaps you could opt for the sweeter treatment of honey? Hope you heal quickly!

Agreed on the King 1/6--it's a good bang for your buck. Similar to Xenif's suggestion, you may consider a King/SP combo. I would go with a Shapton pro/kuromaku 320 and a King 1k/6k. The kuromaku 320 can quickly set bevels on hard steels (e.g., r2, hap40, etc.), and stays flat for quite a while.

Greetings from the hellscape that is Arizona! Old member/lurker, new poster. I'm a knife nut, former chef, and now an academic. Blundered into Japanese knives in a time analogous with dial up. Remember the days of the big three (Carter, Takeda, and Watanabe)? Watanabe was my gateway smith.

I own the entire shapton kuromaku line, and have had surprisingly good results from the 320-->2k(-->12k) progression. As Masibu noted, you'll want to bring your a game to deburring on the 320. Fun fact, the 320->2k->12k progression is a Shapton recommendation. As you may have noticed, the...

Sorry to hear about your negative experience with TF. Depending how adventurous you are, there may be a (DIY) fix to the bend. As you may know, there's a wooden tool sold in Japan for straighten blades out. Tsukiyama, an online shop in Japan, calls it a hizumitori bou (歪み取り棒). Here's a...

Maybe hit up the fountain pen network forum? Have you thought about making pen 'sayas'? In response to the op's and Jon's questions, yes, very into fountain and dip pens. I generally use a soft fine (SF) pilot 912 or sailor hard fine (HF) pro gear as daily writers. Prefer the SF for the huge...

Thank you for all the replies! It appears that Masahiro primarily uses original and/or proprietary blends from Takefu. Here's a google translated list of the Japanese Takefu website. As for the MV-85 steel, the Masahiro HP classifies this as 'hagane' vs 'stainless'. This steel (MV-85) is used...

If you haven't tried googling/youtubing in Japanese these terms might help you: 牛肉　(Beef) 鶏肉(Chicken) 豚肉 (pork) 商品化 (fabrication; literally make into product) 解体 (Breakdown; you might run across lots of tuna videos) X~のさばき方 (how to break down/fillet/process X) Here's a butcher breaking down a...

Dear KKF hivemind, I have a question about Masahiro’s virgin carbon Japanese steel. Specifically, any guesses/speculations as what specific steel is used/modified. If not, any insights into comparable steels (e.g., SK3, V2, etc.) are welcomed. Here's what I've tracked down from the...