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In fact the whole idea of 'food safe' for chopping board oils is irrelevant. Imagine how little of it you're ingesting. You'd need to soak your board in arsenic after every use to possibly see a side effect from that kind of thing. Maybe don't use peanut oil if you have a peanut allergy...

To emphasize something... Both Tung and Linseed are 'drying' oils. Exposure to oxygen causes polymerisation and they cure to a hard surface. Don't use them on a chopping board. You want mineral oil, and because it's end grain and quite dry looking - you'll want a lot of it. Also - 'food...

I’ve actually no idea what angle I sharpen at tbh. My guess is that this is somewhere between 20-25 degs: I don’t alter it either, regardless of steel. Unless I’m doing 70:30, then everything gets the edge set at the same angle… whatever that may be!

Like Mike said - the SP1K and the King 1K will do it. Not massively easily, but they will. The SP 220 and the King 6k not so much. In terms of synths - I imagine your best bet would be a hardish, reasonably quick stone around 3k-4k, ie a Shapton.

I do these finger tests subconsciously; I’m not thinking about exactly when I’m doing what, I was just trying to make the vid as quick as it could be, whilst making sure I did actually drop paper towel at the end (otherwise it would’ve been a little embarrassing). But I’ve just watched the whole...

Aha… the ‘Thumbnail Test’ is my (and I’m sure many other people’s) secret weapon! Do a search for it here, I’m sure there’ll be quite a few posts. But basically; if you rest a knife edge on your thumbnail, and try to wiggle it just very slightly, then you can get a very accurate impression of...

Thank f that worked eh! Cos there was no way I could be arsed feckin around with some other knife to make another 6 minute video. Coupla things to note… I’m finishing edge trailing and stropping on unloaded, suede side leather, which I tend to do now for most stainless, especially cheaper...

Ok then, here is a proper sharpening video wot I made just now. It's too big to upload here, and I don't know how to compress videos, so I put it on youtube instead. Hopefully the link works. This is my trusty '80s stainless Sabatier that I did quite an extensive restoration of last year. And I...

You do know that if we don’t get at least *one* in-hand-cleaver-n-coti-sharpening video from you, then you’re obliged to renounce the throne as ‘King of Rectangles’… (It’s actually in the Magna Carta if you read closely. Though one of the lesser known appendices tbf).

Howzat for ya (this one is definitely on a Grecian)… Now that you mention it though - I’m more interested in seeing @BillHanna sharpening all of his sub 270mm knives in-hand: All of them, Bill. ALL OF THEM…

Are you trying to imply my edges wouldn't still drop kitchen towel like that after a month...? Slander!!! [Obviously they wouldn't. Doubt they'd do it after a coupla meals tbh. Just don't tell the exam board I said that, yh?].

You’re absolutely right here T. More curved cuts when going straight down is the result of having more teeth on the edge and/or going slower. A higher finish, or more perfect deburring, or more stropping - will give a straighter cut through paper towel at the same speed. - - - I think worth...

I’ve never actually tried this. But to my mind - yep, that does seem like it’d be more tricky than just a straight down cut. Or possibly requires a slightly different type of edge(?). I’m not pulling/sawing it through along the whole edge, but it’s certainly not a completely perpendicular...

The King of In-Hand Sharpening strikes again! And this time using a <10mm Shapton Glass!! Watch out for yer fingers, thumbs, radial artery, ulnar artery, &c. &c. there J. Yh? ;) - - - I shall have a go at this properly (ie with the sharpening, but I’m gonna chicken out and use benchstones)...

And one other thing, on the subject of deburring… I find that what Redwax says here is true: After forming an initial apex; I don’t really pay much attention to perfect ‘deburring’ on every stone in a progression, until the end. But there are also plenty of extremely good sharpeners who do...

The answer is *exactly* what @M1k3 replied here: Thin geometry leading into the edge. Hopefully that goes without saying. A finish that is not massively low. For instance; you can get dynamite kitchen knife edges off an SG500, but if a very a clean paper towel drop is what you’re looking for...

These are excellent. :) I do like like cocktails, and coincidentally I am actually a pirate. If it wasn't for the US federal government's (imo absurd) anti-piracy stance; after I plunder Cadiz next week I would take bearing for the New World, and come to collect a pair for myself!

No worries. I just wish I was that good! Not sure exactly which off the top of my head. I’ll snap a picture of the tin when I’m in tomorrow. When I was in Aus I used to use a very good range of hardwax oils that Carbatec have. I’d certainly recommend these if you’ve not tried…...

That is a spectacular drilling/fitting job on a no-dowel mono handle. Kudos!

Oops, I meant to @ you as well obviously. Well done for spotting my question nevertheless, and thank you and everyone else for the thoughts! From the name I'm guessing Knives and Guns is probably not a UK based operation. ;) But no matter - we do have a stabilizing setup at work, which I might...