I'm excited about that haha. #1 white steel can get very sharp too right?
Burr removal
- Thread starter hibbs00
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myguidingmoonlight
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It should be almost invisible at a glance, although a little bit wider and more visible isn't bad. I just like to keep the bevel thin enough that a few maintainance passes on a stone is enough to keep it paper-towel-sharp, since wider primary bevels takes longer to sharpen.
This knife can handle the king 6k now right?
I have taken shirogami way past that just for fun. It's good for playing with your finest stones and compounds.
Easy to get sharp. Fine grained steel with no pesky wear resistant carbides. So sky is the limit on how high of a great you can go. Doesn't mean you have to though.
6k is the highest grit I have. And a smooth leather strop with no compound. Seems to add a little extra shine and smoothness to metal.
I thinned a little bit but it was hard to tell the edge from the shinogi line. After thinning I formed a burr on both sides, did some burr minimization techniques, repeated on the SP1K and King 6k before raising the angle for very light edge leading passes and cross grit pattern at the same time to reduce the chance of forming a new burr. Finally, light edge leading passes back at original angle also cross grit pattern passes to reduce the chance of the burr. Sharpest knife I've ever held. Was able to cut down most of a paper towel. Still couldn't push cut it like @cotedupy makes it look but could push cut paper, sliced in the cutting board a few times and still could push cut. This knife is amazing
Thank you @hendrix for this knife. Very kind of you my friend. And very appreciated
Thank you @hendrix for this knife. Very kind of you my friend. And very appreciated
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My buddy has a chef knife cleaver mix type of thing he asked if I will sharpen. What do you guys think BTE thickness and bevel angle should be? A cleaver would normally be thicker BTE and higher angle right? Is this one of those cases where near the point it should be thinner and lower angle and gets thicker and higher the more it gets to the heel?
Depends on if it's a vegetable or meat/bone cleaver.
15-20° for vegetable, 20-25ish° for meat/bone.
Thank you. I'll remember that. What do you suggest for BTE thickness?
Haha easy enough. He's bringing it by tomorrow. I'll update on how it goes
Another burr question for everyone.
What I've been doing is raising a burr on both sides, burr minimization until I can barely feel it or can't feel it at all before going to the next stone and doing it all over again. Do I need to form a burr on each stone? It kind of seems like a waste of metal to me but you guys know better than I do. If not, then what do I do on each next stone?
What I've been doing is raising a burr on both sides, burr minimization until I can barely feel it or can't feel it at all before going to the next stone and doing it all over again. Do I need to form a burr on each stone? It kind of seems like a waste of metal to me but you guys know better than I do. If not, then what do I do on each next stone?
Some people from a burr. I personally just use edge leading strokes. Really depends on your consistency to match the last angle used.
You just use edge leading strokes on all following stones?
Could I get a burr on both sides on the first stone and then do like 10 passes on side 1, 10 on side 2,10 on side 1,10 on side 2 type of thing?
WWCSD?
What Would Cliff Stamp Do?
What Would Cliff Stamp Do?
Haha I don't know. He does a whole other method
Yes. I don't count passes, just check my progress.
If I do form a burr on other stones, how important is it I remove the burr on that stone? Can I just do my regular higher angle on the final stone to remove the burr
I suppose you could do that. I'd advise removing the burr from each stone, before moving onto the next one though.
Ok, I'll probably just keep doing what I've been doing. If it ain't broke don't fix it haha, thank you.
Just so I keep learning, why do you recommend that?
Less chance of creating a wire edge.
Thank you.
If anyone is else is still following this thread, I would still like to hear your knowledge and what you do for the other stones. Thank you!
I tend towards kippington’s method of deburring on the final stone after raising a burr on each side in each previous stone. So, just one deburr with some edge leading after. Really much more effective on good steel though. Soft stainless (as previously discussed) takes more work.
Do you minimize the burr on each stone? Ex. Alternating edge leading passes light pressure?
I don’t. I’m basically scrubbing to form a burr on each side (while keeping an eye on the bevel to make sure it’s even), then hop to the next stone once I have a burr established. In my experience, the burr gets smaller as I go up in grit. I did adopt the “test on a cutting board” method discussed somewhere earlier in this thread to make sure I don’t have an edge that will collapse once pressure is put on it (this test is on the final edge).
I do steadily reduce pressure on edge leading stokes on the final stone after burr removal. I atart with medium pressure making sure fingers slide down the knife so they stay centered on the stone, and get lighter and lighter until almost nothing. Works pretty well for me, but I can’t claim to have knives falling through paper towels like some on this thread
just need more (always more) practice haha.
I do steadily reduce pressure on edge leading stokes on the final stone after burr removal. I atart with medium pressure making sure fingers slide down the knife so they stay centered on the stone, and get lighter and lighter until almost nothing. Works pretty well for me, but I can’t claim to have knives falling through paper towels like some on this thread
just need more (always more) practice haha.Others have said it, but it really isn’t all that complicated.
Full sharpening
Full sharpening
- Start with the highest stone possible for the results you need (no chips/reprofile, you don’t need a < 500). Back and forth with a consistent angle and pressure across one side until you raise a burr. Switch sides and do the same until you get a minimal burr on the original side.
- Edge leading light pressure strokes to deburr, as if you’re pushing the burr to the tip. I might do 1-5 strokes per side before flipping until it feels right (no serious burr)
- Test, next stone, repeat. I stop around 3-4K for quality steels. 1-2k for **** stainless. Easy good results applying a small micro bevel when deburring near the final stones by raising your angle a hair. Very light pressure towards the end, just guiding the knife weight.
- IMO higher grit stone doesn’t always mean better end result for most kitchen purposes. My best edges are off the stone, a leather/suede strop seems to remove some necessary tooth.
- 3-4k, edge leading alternating strokes until it’s screaming again. Takes only a couple minutes.
Thank you, both sides make sense to me. I'll have to try just going to the next stone and see if it works better or not and stick with what is better for me.I don’t. I’m basically scrubbing to form a burr on each side (while keeping an eye on the bevel to make sure it’s even), then hop to the next stone once I have a burr established. In my experience, the burr gets smaller as I go up in grit. I did adopt the “test on a cutting board” method discussed somewhere earlier in this thread to make sure I don’t have an edge that will collapse once pressure is put on it (this test is on the final edge).
I do steadily reduce pressure on edge leading stokes on the final stone after burr removal. I atart with medium pressure making sure fingers slide down the knife so they stay centered on the stone, and get lighter and lighter until almost nothing. Works pretty well for me, but I can’t claim to have knives falling through paper towels like some on this thread
I only use my SP220 for thinning or setting a new edge. Otherwise I start on my SP1k until I get a burr on both sides, and do the same thing 2 or 3 more times reducing pressure each time until the burr flips with one pass. If I'm ending on the 1k I'll keep doing alternating edge leading passes with low pressure and cross hatch to reduce the chance of a burr. Finally I slightly raise the angle for 6 or 7 edge leading passes each side, still cross hatching with almost no pressure and back down for 2 or 3 passes at the original angle. If I'm going to my 6k I'll polish and get a burr and repeat steps above. All those burrs kind of seems like a waste though so I was curious if it's necessary on each stone or not
I sharpened about ten soft stainless knives tonight, mostly 1.4116 Henckels. Some had never been sharpened since purchase (in 2007). The edges were visibly reflective but they weren’t chipped. I got out the SG220, SG500, JKI 1000 DR, SG2000, and (for a “razor sharp” request) the SG16000.
Edges that still showed factory bevel got touched up with the green diamond 1k, then microbeveled with SG2000.
Edges that needed regrinding got the SG220, SG500, SG2000 progression.
All shave sharp by the end, microbeveled at about 22° per side.
Burr was sensed using fingernail test. When I do the fingernail test I am not slicing longitudinally along the length of the blade, I am holding it static to see if the edge grabs when push-shaving toward the fingertip and toward the cuticle. If it catches one way and not the other then the burr is still bending.
I left the original geometry and did not thin behind the edge. In one or two cases the recurve was so pronounced I built a thick black line along the edge of the stone.
Edges that still showed factory bevel got touched up with the green diamond 1k, then microbeveled with SG2000.
Edges that needed regrinding got the SG220, SG500, SG2000 progression.
All shave sharp by the end, microbeveled at about 22° per side.
Burr was sensed using fingernail test. When I do the fingernail test I am not slicing longitudinally along the length of the blade, I am holding it static to see if the edge grabs when push-shaving toward the fingertip and toward the cuticle. If it catches one way and not the other then the burr is still bending.
I left the original geometry and did not thin behind the edge. In one or two cases the recurve was so pronounced I built a thick black line along the edge of the stone.
