Cladded pan vs Disc pan

Kitchen Knife Forums

Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thanks for that @blokey, you helped me land a "$600" copper core 6-qt saute pan for the price of a $240 3-ply. (For anyone reading this after the sale is over, Williams Sonoma regularly runs the 4-qt Cu-mai at $250, the 5-qt 5-ply too, so you didn't miss that much.) I'm going to use this for frying Brussels sprouts on my not-nearly-large-enough induction.

 
Last edited:
Thanks for that @blokey, you helped me land a "$600" copper core 6-qt saute pan for the price of a $240 3-ply. (For anyone reading this after the sale is over, Williams Sonoma regularly runs the 4-qt Cu-mai at $250, the 5-qt 5-ply too, so you didn't miss that much.) I'm going to use this for frying Brussels sprouts on my not-nearly-large-enough induction.


Nice. That 6 quart is a beast. I have the 5 qt and 3 qt copper core.
 
Thanks for that @blokey, you helped me land a "$600" copper core 6-qt saute pan for the price of a $240 3-ply. (For anyone reading this after the sale is over, Williams Sonoma regularly runs the 4-qt Cu-mai at $250, the 5-qt 5-ply too, so you didn't miss that much.) I'm going to use this for frying Brussels sprouts on my not-nearly-large-enough induction.


IMO bit of a deceptive picture considering how much of a difference thickness makes. Even with copper thickness matters... Then there's also heat capacity to think of.
With induction stoves in general...after using some with smaller burners I'm inclined to think it might make sense to invest more in a better stove than in better pans. ;)
 
My Copper Core still has a huge hot spot on my not-nearly-large-enough induction burner. Same with my AC D7. Unfortunately, a nice pan can't really compensate for the faults of small induction coils.
 
My Copper Core still has a huge hot spot on my not-nearly-large-enough induction burner. Same with my AC D7. Unfortunately, a nice pan can't really compensate for the faults of small induction coils.
It depends on the construction of the pan itself. Most clad pans – like your Copper Core and D7 – can't compensate for small induction coils, since they simply don't have enough conductive material to spread the heat laterally. But aluminum disc-based cookware and hybrid designs work extremely well and can manage even when much wider than the induction coil.
 
At some point you need to consider reaction time or lack of.
For most recipes, I'd rather have an even-heating pan than a fast-reacting one. The only exceptions are things like delicate sauces. Plus there are plenty of dishes where temperature stability is paramount – long braises and stews, for example. Pans with high responsiveness tend to either over- or under-shoot the mark in these situations. Heat capacity and evenness are much more important for these sorts of dishes.
 
I can kind of see your point of view as I figured out copper works great for roasting bones compared to carbon steel. Deglazing the fond on my copper pan had a beautiful color and taste whereas deglazing the fond on the carbon steel pan was black and ugly. I plan not to use carbon steel in my oven from now on. They were both cooked in a Viking range at the same time using convection.

But for gas and stove top I want my All Clad copper core pans and my copper pan.

I am only a home cook muddling my way through.

IMG_1037.jpg

IMG_1040.jpg

IMG_1041.jpg
 
Thanks for that @blokey, you helped me land a "$600" copper core 6-qt saute pan for the price of a $240 3-ply. (For anyone reading this after the sale is over, Williams Sonoma regularly runs the 4-qt Cu-mai at $250, the 5-qt 5-ply too, so you didn't miss that much.) I'm going to use this for frying Brussels sprouts on my not-nearly-large-enough induction.


Tbh I think he used Falk rather than copper core which have a lot more copper.
 
I got the MC2 skillet, only 2 layers compare to the 3 layers of other All Clad, but the aluminum layer is over 3mm thick so the heat retention and evenness should be one of the best in their line.
https://www.centurylife.org/in-dept...mc2-master-chef-2-12-inch-skillet-frying-pan/
I am trying to figure this out. I have 1 small MC sauce pan which is very handy as I like the rounded bottom. MC is thicker than MC2 from what I have read. I have 2 LTD fry pans 1 being a 10-inch and 1 being 14-inch which is really new. Plus, I have all my copper core pans.

I don't own any MC2 or LTD2. Is LTD thicker than LTD2? I don't know.

PS
Sounds like your guy likes MC2 best but then the old MC line should be better as it is thicker than the MC2 line. I do like my MC saucepan and I don't own a copper core to compare.
I am not seeing a difference in the LTD line of fry pans to the copper core. I am still liking my copper core fry pans. Maybe the 14-inch LTD pan will give me some insight. I have not used it enough. I am having a hard time not using my copper pan.

I have used my 5 quart copper core pan making Marcella Hazan meat sauce cooking it for 10 hours and it looked good. The bottom was clean. I have tried it with my made in 10quart and the bottom is not clean, not burnt either, just a little tomato sticking to the bottom. Who knows, it is an Italian made pan and maybe the center bottom is adding flavor.

And of course, my copper pan is really nice. It was a William Sonoma copper pan made in France. The price is the issue as I think it was around $700 new.

IMG_0457.jpg
 
Last edited:
Don't know either, but 3mm of aluminium is thicker than D3 and D5, only slightly behind D7 and Demeyere proline, but MC2 are significantly cheaper.

BTW anyone have experience with Mauviel 2mm copper stuff? This looks like a good deal
https://www.cutleryandmore.com/mauviel-m200b/copper-skillet-p139559
I ordered one. It is kind of small and thin, but it is a good way to test it.

I did not like my D5 10-inch fry pan. I sold it. I do not have induction as I use gas. I assume it would work better on induction or electric.

I have been drinking and sometimes I get wordy. I had sugar cookies for desert, so I had to have bourbon to go with my sugar cookies. I think the wine did not count with dinner.
 
Last edited:
I got the MC2 skillet, only 2 layers compare to the 3 layers of other All Clad, but the aluminum layer is over 3mm thick so the heat retention and evenness should be one of the best in their line.
I am a huge fan of MC2. I once had d3, MC2, and D5 in 10” skillets. D5 was slow and unresponsive. D3 was too responsive and more uneven and it didn’t hold enough heat to sear. MC2 hit the sweet spot between responsive and searing. I got rid of d3 and d5 skillets.

I also have some original MC and have not noticed a difference with MC2 other than appearance but I can check. LTD and LTD2 has same thickness and performance presumably but I don’t own any.

I also own french copper (bourgeat, mauviel 2.5mm) which is definitely better but pricy. I have never been tempted to upgrade my 12” or 10” mc2 skillets to copper.
 
At some point you need to consider reaction time or lack of.
Yep.... this is one of the reasons I think at some point it's better to fix the stove than to fix the pans. You can to some extent fix a bad stove by just making the pans stupid thick, but it also means they get a lot heavier, take forever to heat up, respond far slower, and become far more expensive. It's a bit like putting the horse behind the wagon IMO.
I can kind of see your point of view as I figured out copper works great for roasting bones compared to carbon steel. Deglazing the fond on my copper pan had a beautiful color and taste whereas deglazing the fond on the carbon steel pan was black and ugly. I plan not to use carbon steel in my oven from now on. They were both cooked in a Viking range at the same time using convection.

But for gas and stove top I want my All Clad copper core pans and my copper pan.

I am only a home cook muddling my way through.

View attachment 207453
View attachment 207454
View attachment 207455
Honestly I think the difference might not be due to one pan being carbon steel and hte other being copper, but simply due to boiling out some of the seasoning in the carbon steel pan. If you had used any other clean pan with a stainless lining I think the results would likely have been similar to the copper pan.
 
You can to some extent fix a bad stove by just making the pans stupid thick, but it also means they get a lot heavier, take forever to heat up, respond far slower, and become far more expensive. It's a bit like putting the horse behind the wagon IMO.
I was replying to btbyrd, who uses induction. With induction (and to a lesser extent, with gas) there's not a downside to using aluminum disc-based cookware with between 3-6 mm of aluminum in the base. They're still far lighter than just about all copper cookware, far less expensive, and take minimal time to heat up. Their only real downside is downward responsiveness, which as I indicated in my previous post is only truly important when making delicate sauces. If I kill the power on my induction cooktop to a thick (6-7 mm aluminum) disc-based pan, the heat will stop rising immediately, and begin to fall after about 10 seconds. That's not going to ruin any dish. And the difference in pan floor evenness is astonishing.

Induction cooktops generally create more concentrated hot-spotting within cookware, so having a thicker conductive layer on the bottom is far more important that spreading the heat to the perimeter of the sidewalls (as in clad). Of course, YMMV, but I've yet to meet a single induction user who's disappointed by the performance of this type of cookware on their cooktops.
 
Honestly I think the difference might not be due to one pan being carbon steel and hte other being copper, but simply due to boiling out some of the seasoning in the carbon steel pan. If you had used any other clean pan with a stainless lining I think the results would likely have been similar to the copper pan.
The pan was clean no carbon build up as I use chain mail to clean my carbon steel. If you look at the carbon steel pan in my picture you will notice where there is black burned on. This came out of the bones and the carbon steel pan burned it. My copper pan had none of this. The black burned on which happened as it was roasting is the reason the fond is black ugly. The copper pan had none of this. I am guessing but I would say a better heat sink to where there were no hot spots. And if you look at the link I have a before it went into the oven picture. Don't read the whole thread just go to the end of the thread to where I have the frozen meat in the pans at the start.
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/dark-beef-stock-for-french-onion-soup.50900/page-2
Why don't you try this with a carbon steel pan as I have the instructions on what I did and temperatures in the oven?

When I used my thick cast iron pan I did not have this black build up like the carbon steel pan. This was done at an earlier point in time so not exactly the same. But I feel good about my cast iron pan in the oven just not my carbon steel pan.
Maybe if the carbon steel pan was thicker, but I would still use my copper pan.
 
Last edited:
The pan was clean no carbon build up as I use chain mail to clean my carbon steel. If you look at the carbon steel pan in my picture you will notice where there is black burned on. This came out of the bones and the carbon steel pan burned it. My copper pan had none of this. The black burned on which happened as it was roasting is the reason the fond is black ugly. The copper pan had none of this. I am guessing but I would say a better heat sink to where there were no hot spots. And if you look at the link I have a before it went into the oven picture. Don't read the whole thread just go to the end of the thread to where I have the frozen meat in the pans at the start.
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/dark-beef-stock-for-french-onion-soup.50900/page-2
Why don't you try this with a carbon steel pan as I have the instructions on what I did and temperatures in the oven?

When I used my thick cast iron pan I did not have this black build up like the carbon steel pan. This was done at an earlier point in time so not exactly the same. But I feel good about my cast iron pan in the oven just not my carbon steel pan.
Maybe if the carbon steel pan was thicker, but I would still use my copper pan.
If it's in the oven, the oven tends to smooth out any conductivity problems so copper shouldn't offer much of a benefit. Whenever I brown my bones (usually chicken scraps) in the oven I literally do it in ultra cheap thin stainless crap. Like I said, I think the fact that the copper pan is stainless on the inside might be a bigger factor here? But I don't really have the means to exhaustively test this.
 
Like most here, I have many (too many) pots and pans.

I collect vintage cast iron and copper. Daily users are All-Clad and Scan Pan (for non-stick).

One must remember that the origins of copper, carbon steel, and cast iron are from the days when stoves/ranges/ovens lacked the mega BTU output and thermal stability offered today.

Cast iron offered thermal stability.

Copper was very reactive to heat. As the burner got too hot (think wood or coal fired stove) one could move it off heat to control cooking temp. Now days, we just turn a knob.

So the necessity of those cooking materials has become far less important than it once was.

IMO the remaining important distinctions are heat distribution in large pans (copper) lower heat will emanate up the sides of the pan but too aggressive and it will scorch the bottom.

Magnetic? Obviously induction. Great for heat distribution because it emanates from tje entire pan not the bottom. *** Best deep fryer is Le Creuset on induction ***

Like most home cooks, I tend to over heat pans on the stove, so the thermal dissipation (control) of copper is still useful.
 
Don't know either, but 3mm of aluminium is thicker than D3 and D5, only slightly behind D7 and Demeyere proline, but MC2 are significantly cheaper.
I found this tid bit on the internet about All Clad. It sounds like both D3 and MC2 are 3 ply just arranged differently.
"
I am looking into tri-ply cookware, including All-Clad and found this discussion in a search, so I hope you don't mind if I jump in with a couple of questions regarding the cooking difference in Stainless and MC2 collections.

If the graphics on the All-Clad site are at all accurate, it appears that the stainless on the inside of the MC2 collection is thicker than the interior stainless layer on the Stainless line, but then, of course, has none on the outside. I think it appears that both have similar thicknesses of aluminum and stainless, just distributed differently. The Stainless line has a thicker inner core of aluminum, and the MC2 has aluminum alloy on the outside...Are these differences significant? And by that I mean to the cooking performance, not the look. I cook on a Wolf gas rangetop and want to make sure of even heating, no scorching on the sides, etc."

I also found this and it looks like the newer LTD is lighter than the older LTD. I am still looking for where I read the original MC was thicker than the MC2. It looks like the MC stuff has been stripped off the internet.

And I should add it looks like the original LTD weights more than the MC2. Your logic seems to imply the LTD will be better. I don't think it is that simple.
 
Last edited:
I found this tid bit on the internet about All Clad. It sounds like both D3 and MC2 are 3 ply just arranged differently.
"
I am looking into tri-ply cookware, including All-Clad and found this discussion in a search, so I hope you don't mind if I jump in with a couple of questions regarding the cooking difference in Stainless and MC2 collections.

If the graphics on the All-Clad site are at all accurate, it appears that the stainless on the inside of the MC2 collection is thicker than the interior stainless layer on the Stainless line, but then, of course, has none on the outside. I think it appears that both have similar thicknesses of aluminum and stainless, just distributed differently. The Stainless line has a thicker inner core of aluminum, and the MC2 has aluminum alloy on the outside...Are these differences significant? And by that I mean to the cooking performance, not the look. I cook on a Wolf gas rangetop and want to make sure of even heating, no scorching on the sides, etc."

I also found this and it looks like the newer LTD is lighter than the older LTD. I am still looking for where I read the original MC was thicker than the MC2. It looks like the MC stuff has been stripped off the internet.

And I should add it looks like the original LTD weights more than the MC2. Your logic seems to imply the LTD will be better. I don't think it is that simple.

D3 have a lot less aluminum than MC2, it's 2.7mm in total thickness while MC2 is over 3.5mm in total thickness, that's quite significant. It shows in weight too.
https://www.centurylife.org/in-dept...mc2-master-chef-2-12-inch-skillet-frying-pan/https://www.centurylife.org/cookware-even-heating-rankings-butane-propane-natural-gas-etc/
 
Last edited:
Yeah, and Demeyere proline should be the top end of this, downside they are heavier.
I can't find thickness of the different All Clad pans? This used to be somewhere on the net.

My copper core weighs more than my LTD which weighs more than a MC2. I don't own a MC2 just going by what was posted above. I own both an original LTD and a copper core. I do own an old MC saucepan which has thick sides but it is my only one.

I don't think weight is the only factor.
 
Last edited:
So I checked the thickness of my all-clad MC and MC2 pots that are handy.

The MC line is definitely thicker. A 1qt MC saucier is 3.5mm and a 2qt MC sauce pan was 4mm total thickness. Comparable MC2 are 3.3mm.

MC2 thickness varies with the product from 3.3mm to 5mm total thickness.
Small MC2 pots and saucier pans are 3.3mm total thickness, a 12” MC2 skillet is 4mm, an 8qt pot is 4.5mm, and the monster 16qt MC2 is 5mm. Yes they made 16 and 20qt versions (13” diameter).
 
I can't find thickness of the different All Clad pans? This used to be somewhere on the net.

My copper core weighs more than my LTD which weighs more than a MC2. I don't own a MC2 just going by what was posted above. I own both an original LTD and a copper core. I do own an old MC saucepan which has thick sides but it is my only one.

I don't think weight is the only factor.
Here's a general database, weight isn't a factor when different material and construction are involved, thinner copper pan is going to weigh more than thicker aluminum. But if similar construction and materials are involved I'd say thicker means better heat retention and distribution.
https://www.centurylife.org/how-thi...tion-compatible-and-how-long-is-the-warranty/
 
So I checked the thickness of my all-clad MC and MC2 pots that are handy.

The MC line is definitely thicker. A 1qt MC saucier is 3.5mm and a 2qt MC sauce pan was 4mm total thickness. Comparable MC2 are 3.3mm.

MC2 thickness varies with the product from 3.3mm to 5mm total thickness.
Small MC2 pots and saucier pans are 3.3mm total thickness, a 12” MC2 skillet is 4mm, an 8qt pot is 4.5mm, and the monster 16qt MC2 is 5mm. Yes they made 16 and 20qt versions (13” diameter).

Just to be clear … You are referring to the thickness of THE BOTTOM?
 
Back
Top