Cladded pan vs Disc pan

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Only the Martensite like 400 series works with induction, Austenite like common 300 (18/8,18/0) series doesn’t work, they are not magnetic. A pan has to has a outer stainless shell different from their inner cooking surface to work
 
Actually I'm fairly certain 18/0 works on induction; it's what's commonly used as an outer layer to make them induction ready. But 18/8 and 18/10 don't... Those are however more corrosion resistant so you commonly see a combination of both materials in pans.
 
The walls / inside, sure, but not the bottom. Otherwise it wouldn't work on induction.
Hence why I said you usually see a combination.
 
Anybody knows how thick the disk is on Lagostina Accademia (LAGOFUSION® BOTTOM), or at least a rough approximation? So far I like Fissler orig-profi or Lagostina Accademia
 
Actually I'm fairly certain 18/0 works on induction; it's what's commonly used as an outer layer to make them induction ready. But 18/8 and 18/10 don't... Those are however more corrosion resistant so you commonly see a combination of both materials in pans.

At the website of Homichef, for whom the /0 is a selling point…

Nickel-bearing stainless steel, such as 304SS (Cr/Ni: 18/8), being more corrosion-resistant, is commonly used in industry, BUT nickel is high up on the ATSDR list of priority toxins, and nickel LEACHES under regular cooking conditions. - The set is made of food grade nickel free stainless steel: JYH21CT (21/0) for the inside layer and 430SS (18/0) for the outside layer. NICKEL FREE SS is also more heat-conductive. Tests show a noticeable degree (12-15%) of energy savings.
https://www.homichef.com/p/19.html?sku=29
In the middle they use Al.
 
Actually I'm fairly certain 18/0 works on induction; it's what's commonly used as an outer layer to make them induction ready. But 18/8 and 18/10 don't... Those are however more corrosion resistant so you commonly see a combination of both materials in pans.
18/0 is magnetic, my mistake
I see a lot of pots in 18/10, the Fisslers appear to have one material for the outside, guess there is some sort of magnetic disc/layer in them

https://www.google.com/search?q=sta...CDY4MDZqMGo3qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
They probably has a magnetic bottom layer, inside are 18/10 for food safety
 
If people are too worried just remember lots of Japanese knife makers use lead bath to austenize their blades and no user haven’t died from it…yet
 
There's a study on this one
TL DR: Long simmering acidic sauce can release amount of nickle and chromium, those who are nickle sensitive should avoid them, consider a good lead free enameled cookware
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4284091/
I guess I'm covered then since I do all my long braises in enamelled cast iron anyway. ;)
Bit of a shame they don't really name most of the brands. What's actually interesting is how they talk about the bare iron Lodge. Not a surprise that it gives off a lot of iron (which doesn't seem particularly problematic to me) but I wonder where all the other metals are coming from? I guess from reusing scrap metal?
 
I think for food and climate safety I will try only eating food cooked by placing it in a glass in the sunshine.
Actually when it comes to PFAS/PFOA crap I think the main source might actually be the food itself at this point.
 
I guess I'm covered then since I do all my long braises in enamelled cast iron anyway. ;)

Bit of a shame they don't really name most of the brands. What's actually interesting is how they talk about the bare iron Lodge. Not a surprise that it gives off a lot of iron (which doesn't seem particularly problematic to me) but I wonder where all the other metals are coming from? I guess from reusing scrap metal?
The Staub and Le Cruset are all good and with in standard, Bruno doesn’t seem to be sold in most places
 
Anybody knows how thick the disk is on Lagostina Accademia (LAGOFUSION® BOTTOM), or at least a rough approximation? So far I like Fissler orig-profi or Lagostina Accademia
I dropped a line to Lagostina and they advised that the thickness of the aluminum in the bottom disc is 3-5mm.
However, no explanation if this depends on the size of the cookware or they are just inconsistent.
 
I dropped a line to Lagostina and they advised that the thickness of the aluminum in the bottom disc is 3-5mm.
However, no explanation if this depends on the size of the cookware or they are just inconsistent.
It depends on the diameter of the cookware. The wider pieces have thicker aluminum discs, as you'd hope.
 
You see that with a lot of brands; some Demeyere lines also have slightly different thicknesses in different sizes within the same line.
I do wonder how thick the actual walls are in that line...and whether it's still thick enough to do any good. This is IMO the weakspot of much cheaper clad cookware, where they are so thin in the walls that it really doesn't do much.
 
I was curious about your magnet test. It makes sense, just the empiricist in me wanted to test it out. I knew I had one pot at work that says it's stainless steel but doesn't work at all on my commercial induction hobs. So I checked and sure enough the disc bottom on this particular pot might be stainless steel but not the magnetic kind. I will double check with my Thunder Group pan when I get home. Although it's old enough that the data might not mean much. The formula could have changed over the last 15 years. Lol.

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I tested my Thunder Group pan with a magnet. The disc base, the body of the pan and the handle all seem to be made of different materials. The disc base is strongly magnetic. The body of the pan is less magnetic and the handles are non-magnetic. That makes sense because the handles are more shiny which means they must contain more nickel.
 
Just to mention the Paderno Grand Gourmet 1100 series.... these come with a 7 mm thick, and correspondingly heavy, bottom disc, once you're at the 11"/28cm size (possibly same at one size down). Induction friendly, with a high weight/price ratio. It's been pointed out that the disc design does not wrap around the bottom corners of the pan, but I have not noticed any significant temp deviation around the outer edge of the pan when actually in use, temperature seems consistent across the entire cooking surface on mine.
 
Cladded ,minium 3mm thick ,preferably 3.5mm+

Onli disc bottom exception is demeyere atlantis series. Best SS cookware money can buy.
I have demeyere pro skillet 4.8mm thick bottom & demeyere atlantis saute (disc) 3,6mm thick.its . Silver-copper-silver heat response & super even heating is crazy good. Pro skillet is basicly cast iton skillet but stainless & response heat faster. Both are do it all in one pans. Pro skillet sear amazingly and no hot spots at all(5 times cheked with laser thermo & most difference was 4 celsius
 
I was curious about your magnet test. It makes sense, just the empiricist in me wanted to test it out. I knew I had one pot at work that says it's stainless steel but doesn't work at all on my commercial induction hobs. So I checked and sure enough the disc bottom on this particular pot might be stainless steel but not the magnetic kind. I will double check with my Thunder Group pan when I get home. Although it's old enough that the data might not mean much. The formula could have changed over the last 15 years. Lol.

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FWIW, that’s described as an aluminum encapsulated base

https://www.cuisinart.com/shopping/cookware/stockpots/766-26/
 
I have a mix of clad and try ply disc..... Not everything needs to be clad, such as a frying pan. As long as the heat disc is quality and thick, you shouldn't have problems with either
 
Today I got my 28cm Fissler original-profi frying pan and so far so good while using on induction. Hopefully, it wont disappoint down the road.
 
Today I got my 28cm Fissler original-profi frying pan and so far so good while using on induction. Hopefully, it wont disappoint down the road.
I am certain that it won't. Mine is over thirty years old and still going strong, as well as on day one, and that's after having been through the dishwasher a few thousand times.
 
I was wondering if the type of pot for boiling water matters. Either clad, disk bottom or cheap thin conductive layer.
Is there a reason to invest into expensive pot for pasta?
 
I was wondering if the type of pot for boiling water matters. Either clad, disk bottom or cheap thin conductive layer.
Is there a reason to invest into expensive pot for pasta?

I asked this once and the resounding response, especially from the pros was no, it isn't necessary to spend big coin on larger pots. Unlike saute pands and skillets, you don't really care about the heat conduction up the sides on large pots.

I would however, stay away from the cheap thin stuff. I had those in our earlier years and the are prone to scorching, bending, etc. A decent disc bottom is what I go with for things over 4qt.
 
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