Did I ruin my stone??

[HumbleHomeCook]

That's a good point. I might have to have some sort of scale on price so a knife that takes 15 mins and a knife that takes 90 mins aren't the same price. I don't have many other skills besides cooking so hopefully I can make this work eventually. I'll be able to make my own hours and do what I can

This is a separate conversation and you might want to start a new thread, but if you're thinking about making a little money off of sharpening, my opinion is you'll be hard pressed to beat power equipment. The general public couldn't give two defecations about a well done edge. They want something better than the "holy mother of all that's good and right did you do to this" junk knife edge they have.

Just my opinion though.

 

[Blank Blades.]

I'm not sure I can afford everything I would need but I really like this idea! Thank you!

Its probably cheaper than a diamond plate. Or at least no more expensive than the cheap ones.

You just need a bag of loose silicon carbide abrasive. 60 grit is probably decent if you get only one. And either a piece of glass, or a floor tile from a hardware store. Ime the floor tile has lasted me longer.

 

[hibbs00]

This is a separate conversation and you might want to start a new thread, but if you're thinking about making a little money off of sharpening, my opinion is you'll be hard pressed to beat power equipment. The general public couldn't give two defecations about a well done edge. They want something better than the "holy mother of all that's good and right did you do to this" junk knife edge they have.

Just my opinion though.

That's true. My buddy made a good point also that a lot of people have the knife blocks that's sharpen with every use and the stupid pull through sharpeners so a lot of people might not want a sharpening unless their knife is really bad

 

[hibbs00]

I will echo those who say I think you're fine.

I have an SP220 and it gets a diamond lapping. If it feels too smooth, put some elbow into it next time. It is just the surface. You haven't done any sub-surface damage or altered the composition or structure of the stone.

Thank you. I'm so relieved to know I didn't mess it up. Eventually I want to look into this sic powder though

 

[hibbs00]

I wanted to get my brand out there and was willing to accept things I should not have. It probably backfired with these people telling their friends with similarly abused knives about my service. Be selective about what you accept. There are sharpening services that will slap it on a belt grinder for 30 seconds and call it done; let THEM service these people.

You do also need to distinguish between simple sharpening and repair. When a chef's knife has a big frown that's a lot of work to repair. Likewise a broken tip, for which you'll at the least need a hard stone like a coarse India or Crystolon, or you'll gouge the devil out of your regular roughing stones. If you will service western knives you need to be able to reduce bolsters and make it look professional, or at least appropriate.


Yes, but not very fast. Granite dishes slower in my experience. I actually have three granite tiles now so that when they all finally become too dished I can use the three plate method to lap them against each other back to flat.

I have some time to figure all that out. I pretty much need it to work though so maybe eventually get a belt grinder for the heavy work and finish on the stones

 

[Blank Blades.]

My 2 cents on the sharpening service thing.

I did it for a couple years. It took me about 5 minutes per knife, of course it depends on how bad it is. But that was the average ammount of time. The only thing i really refused, (or more just priced out of what people were willing to spend) were the ****** replica swords people would want me to sharpen.

My best advice, if sharpening with stones only. Is get a brycxo.manticore, something to follow that, and then a mid grit. A progressions is faster than starting finer. Especially with very dull stuff.

I also recommend taking advantage of strops. Getting the best edge possible with only stone isn't worth the extra time it takes, and imo isn't really any better than mostly removing the burr on the stone then jumping to a strop. Just one with green compound is good enough for most stuff.

Having at least a dmt coarse, and a strop with diamond spray. For if someone has a spyderco, or anything with a lot of vanadium carbide is a good idea.

 

[hibbs00]

My 2 cents on the sharpening service thing.

I did it for a couple years. It took me about 5 minutes per knife, of course it depends on how bad it is. But that was the average ammount of time. The only thing i really refused, (or more just priced out of what people were willing to spend) were the ****** replica swords people would want me to sharpen.

My best advice, if sharpening with stones only. Is get a brycxo.manticore, something to follow that, and then a mid grit. A progressions is faster than starting finer. Especially with very dull stuff.

I also recommend taking advantage of strops. Getting the best edge possible with only stone isn't worth the extra time it takes, and imo isn't really any better than mostly removing the burr on the stone then jumping to a strop. Just one with green compound is good enough for most stuff.

Having at least a dmt coarse, and a strop with diamond spray. For if someone has a spyderco, or anything with a lot of vanadium carbide is a good idea.

Good point with the super steels. I'll definitely need a diamond. I wish I knew about the brycxo manticore earlier. I probably would have got that instead of the sp220

 

[Mr.Wizard]

I pretty much need it to work though so maybe eventually get a belt grinder for the heavy work and finish on the stones

I thought you just meant a paying hobby. If you actually need to make money I think you need something entirely different. Like this.

 

[hibbs00]

I thought you just meant a paying hobby. If you actually need to make money I think you need something entirely different. Like this.

Well in August, medicine my Dr was giving me had a rare reaction where I can't walk far now and very little strength plus a ton of other side effects. That causes me to lose my job and can take up to 3 years to heal. So until I recover I'm looking for something easy on my body and I can take a day off if it's a bad day. I've been a hobby sharpener for years and don't have many other skills so I might as well practice all I can and see if this works out

 

[JustAnotherJoe]

What happens to the plate glass under the grit? Does it get abraded too? Is there dishing?

To give you a rough idea of the speed it dishes, I have 12+ hours of lapping with 60/90grit SiC clocked on one side and I am only now starting to think about flipping.

Also, it dishes in a concave fashion, which maybe isn't that much of an issue when trying to flatten a concave stone?

 

[stringer]

To give you a rough idea of the speed it dishes, I have 12+ hours of lapping with 60/90grit SiC clocked on one side and I am only now starting to think about flipping.

Also, it dishes in a concave fashion, which maybe isn't that much of an issue when trying to flatten a concave stone?

It will tend to convex your stones. Which isn't too bad for edge work for kitchen knives or straight razors. Better than dished for sure. A convexed stone doesn't work as well for woodworking tools, chisels, plane blades, etc. Or for polishing wide knife bevels.

 

[Blank Blades.]

If carefully using whatever you choose to have as your surface. Glass, tile etc. You can keep it pretty flat. It helps if its large. Which is another reason i like the floor tiles. But you can keep it flat just by being careful about how you lap.

So switch up the area you are lapping on. Use the outside edges, go across the whole surface. Change how you are moving the stone. Etc.

 

[Mr.Wizard]

I wish I knew about the brycxo manticore earlier. I probably would have got that instead of the sp220

The Manticore is not a large stone at only 2" by 8" which I find less than ideal for coarse shaping. Other roughing stones to consider are the Zandstra FOSS 7205, a dual grit 10" speed skate stone recommended to me by HeavyHanded on BladeForums which works well with water, and coarse oil stones which are available in 11.5" length for the Norton IM313, XL Oilstone and Crystolon. I haven't used these latter options because I don't like working with oil, but I read that some use them with water.

 

[Blank Blades.]

I recommend the manticore over crystolon. Just because the manticore is friable enough to not need to be reconditioned to keep cutting efficiently. Which for something thats job is just to remove as much material as quick as possible makes the manticore the better option.

Never tried the others

 

[hibbs00]

I recommend the manticore over crystolon. Just because the manticore is friable enough to not need to be reconditioned to keep cutting efficiently. Which for something thats job is just to remove as much material as quick as possible makes the manticore the better option.

Never tried the others

Can the manticore also be used as a lapping stone since it's so coarse?

 

[Mr.Wizard]

@Blank Blades. do you not find the small size restrictive? Once I started using a 3" by 11" strip of sandpaper for thinning I found it really hard to go back to small stones.

Can the manticore also be used as a lapping stone since it's so coarse?

I would not recommend that.

 

[hibbs00]

The Manticore is not a large stone at only 2" by 8" which I find less than ideal for coarse shaping. Other roughing stones to consider are the Zandstra FOSS 7205, a dual grit 10" speed skate stone recommended to me by HeavyHanded on BladeForums which works well with water, and coarse oil stones which are available in 11.5" length for the Norton IM313, XL Oilstone and Crystolon. I haven't used these latter options because I don't like working with oil, but I read that some use them with water.

I'm not a fan of oil myself

The Manticore is not a large stone at only 2" by 8" which I find less than ideal for coarse shaping. Other roughing stones to consider are the Zandstra FOSS 7205, a dual grit 10" speed skate stone recommended to me by HeavyHanded on BladeForums which works well with water, and coarse oil stones which are available in 11.5" length for the Norton IM313, XL Oilstone and Crystolon. I haven't used these latter options because I don't like working with oil, but I read that some use them with water.

I'm not a fan of oil either. Thank you for giving me some options

 

[Mr.Wizard]

I'm not a fan of oil either. Thank you for giving me some options

Here is another large, coarse roughing stone, and it's meant for water.

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/The-Grinder-Stone-P1655.aspx

 

[hibbs00]

Here is another large, coarse roughing stone, and it's meant for water.

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/The-Grinder-Stone-P1655.aspx

That seems very promising! I'll have to get that when I can. If it lives up to us name, I might not have to get a belt grinder

 

[Blank Blades.]

@Blank Blades. do you not find the small size restrictive? Once I started using a 3" by 11" strip of sandpaper for thinning I found it really hard to go back to small stones.



I would not recommend that.

Just depends what you are doing.

At least for the job i used the manticore for. It was fine. Which was just shaping the edge bevel very quickly. It usually took one or two pass. With decently high pressure. Would leave a very ragged edge. So i would follow with something around 220-300, to put a more reasonable edge, then go up to 1000, or whatever i wanted to finish on.

If i wanted to thin, i probably wouldnt use the manticore. It can remove a lot of material for stone. But the scratches are just so coarse you need to at least have a 120 to follow it, then 220, is my best guess.

I tried it before i cant recall the progression I had to use to get the 60 grit scratches out. But i remember it being a bit difficult.

 

[hibbs00]

Just depends what you are doing.

At least for the job i used the manticore for. It was fine. Which was just shaping the edge bevel very quickly. It usually took one or two pass. With decently high pressure. Would leave a very ragged edge. So i would follow with something around 220-300, to put a more reasonable edge, then go up to 1000, or whatever i wanted to finish on.

If i wanted to thin, i probably wouldnt use the manticore. It can remove a lot of material for stone. But the scratches are just so coarse you need to at least have a 120 to follow it, then 220, is my best guess.

I tried it before i cant recall the progression I had to use to get the 60 grit scratches out. But i remember it being a bit difficult.

Is the manticore ok for use on all knives? I noticed the grinder stone said it's not

 

[Blank Blades.]

Is the manticore ok for use on all knives? I noticed the grinder stone said it's not

I went and checked what it said.

Yeah i would say. Similar in this case. You wouldnt want to try to hone a straight razon on a manticore. But otherwise its fine. Its mostly for when you just need to quickly remove metal, and shape bevels.

 

[hibbs00]

I went and checked what it said.

Yeah i would say. Similar in this case. You wouldnt want to try to hone a straight razon on a manticore. But otherwise its fine. Its mostly for when you just need to quickly remove metal, and shape bevels.

Awesome. That's pretty much all I would use it for. I have a lot of knives I would like to put a different angle on or hard steel knives that take forever on my other stones

 

[mengwong]

Any new impressions? I picked up the Grinder Stone in late 2022 and got the Manticore April this year.

l've rebeveled using the Grinder Stone (80 grit SiC) once before, but subjectively it wasn't clearly faster than the SG220. Haven’t used the Manticore (60 grit SiC) yet.

Next proper session I’d like to measure weight loss for an objective comparison.