how do you treat your handles...

[spoiledbroth]

Obviously I know oil/wax woodworking finish products (tung oil etc) or just plain old board butter...

I'm more curious about the technique people use to treat such handles.

I tend to work the board butter into the handle for at least 15-20 minutes with my hands (or until I can see the excess wax takes on a grayish colour, presumably from my sweaty/greasy hands though I scrub the handles and my hands with antibacterial soap before to keep from 'contaminating' the handle or sealing in a previous nasty).

Then I will try to let the wax sit on the handle or saya for at least a few hours, overnight if possible. After that I wipe off the excess with paper towel and kinda buff it with a microfibre cloth. Usually this will last a day or two before I notice the hou wood is quite thirsty (in the winter here it is very, very dry).

Was wondering if most people just apply the board butter, work it in and then wipe it off all in one sitting or what?

Also curious to know other (FOODSAFE) alternatives that might work better. I saw one guy online (may have been here) who would knock new handles off and vacuum seal them in a bag with some type of wood finishing oil. I guess he had the vacuum set up so that it penetrated really deep into the wood. That was cool but I'm currently without access to something that could pull a decent vacuum in such a manner.

Thanks folks.

 

[SuperSharp]

I have basically the same ritual. I use board butter, massage into handle until content, then usually let sit overnight before wiping off the excess with a paper towel.

 

[The Edge]

I tend to use renaissance wax on my handles, though most of mine are stabilized wood, so I don't have to worry quite so much about the wood drying out.

 

[chinacats]

Before applying the board butter, I stand the knife on it's handle in a tall glass of mineral oil overnight--for new or overly dry handles. Let that absorb completely through the handle and then after that dries you can apply the board butter however you like.

 

[spoiledbroth]

the edge, thanks for the tip about renaissance wax. Like what I'm reading online about it.

Before applying the board butter, I stand the knife on it's handle in a tall glass of mineral oil overnight--for new or overly dry handles. Let that absorb completely through the handle and then after that dries you can apply the board butter however you like.

ah I like this idea too! I hadn't thought about that. I could probably get a fancy slim cocktail glass to limit the amount of mineral oil I'd have to buy.

 

[TurboScooter]

If I have something old and/or dry, I put cling film down on the counter, apply a liberal amount of mineral oil, then wrap it in the cling film. Let sit for a while (overnight, few days, whatever), unwrap, repeat if it's mostly been absorbed.

 

[ecchef]

I use a combination of several of these techniques. Warm the handle with a hair dryer, liberal application of board butter (Dave's formula), wrap in cling film. I'll leave them stored that way too. Haven't had any issues even with the extreme variations in humidity that we get here.

 

[KitchenCommander]

I have a large jar that I filled with Mineral Oil, then I do as Chinacats does and submerge the handle in the jar of oil. The jar is easy because I just put the lid on for next time. My longest soak time so far has been a couple of hours. I will try overnight next time to allow for maximum absorption. For me it is easy and allows for the handle to absorb as much oil as it needs. Also the jar is super convenient.

 

[Mucho Bocho]

What kind of wood handles are we talking about here? Unstabilized I assuming. You guys soak your Ho wood handles in mineral oil? Doesn't it make them greasy? I do put board butter or mineral oil on my Boccote, ebony but Ho wood, even pakka wood. I thought the whole benefit of Ho wood was that is naturally grippy (abundant and cheap too), not sure why you'd want to make the handles oily?

The handles on my knives almost never get messy anyway. If both hands are required in the middle of prep, I'll usually wash them before resuming cutting.What am I missing?

 

[Asteger]

I think far too much is made of handles in the KKF-zone. When it comes to wa handles I dislike almost all of the flashy burl-wood handles, any with those pointless spacers or rhinestone things, etc, as to me they always make the knife look more about the handle than the blade. Too much. So, I wouldn't know or care about taking care of this type of handle if that's what you mean. If handles are western, some variation looks okay to me, but I like wa. My handles are all plainer and 'Japanese' wa in ho, walnut, Japanese cherry, ebony, ichii/yew or keyaki, with buffalo.

I have mixed feelings about treating handles, because for example in the case of ho, when the wood is unsealed with oil the grains rise and really give an excellent grip. The handle on my newish Toyama is like this; some people might think about immediately replacing it, but what a practial handle and secure to hold when wet. However, sometimes if I think I don't care about getting a smoother feel and if it'll make the handles look more sleek without being showy then I'll use some mineral oil/beeswax and polish.

But I'm often more concerned about what's inside than the handle and the installation. I might worry more about the tang than the wood, and so I'll use beeswax to fill the handle hole or coat the tang when installing a handle, to waterproof and add some strength. However, there's the argument that a somewhat rusted tang is quite natural and will provide more strength and stability to the handle in time, as it'll expand a bit inside there. Why be afraid of this?

Basically, I have lots of extra handles - maybe 20 in different sizes and woods - and my attitude is that I can always switch and change any if needed in the future, and that's the practical side to the traditional wa design. They're made to complement the knife and be practical, easily installed or removed, without great lose if they get worn, and they're not the focus of attention when compared to the blades.

What kind of wood handles are we talking about here? You guys soak your Ho wood handles in mineral oil? Doesn't it make them greasy? I do put board butter or mineral oil on my Boccote, ebony but Ho wood, even pakka wood. I thought the whole benefit of Ho wood was that is naturally grippy (abundant and cheap too), not sure why you'd want to make the handles oily?

MB just got in 3 minutes ahead of me. Exactly.

 

[chinacats]

What kind of wood handles are we talking about here? Unstabilized I assuming. You guys soak your Ho wood handles in mineral oil? Doesn't it make them greasy? I do put board butter or mineral oil on my Boccote, ebony but Ho wood, even pakka wood. I thought the whole benefit of Ho wood was that is naturally grippy (abundant and cheap too), not sure why you'd want to make the handles oily?

The handles on my knives almost never get messy anyway. If both hands are required in the middle of prep, I'll usually wash them before resuming cutting.What am I missing?

I just use the oil on ho wood...use butter on stabilized handles. I find that it just makes them "less dry" and not oily at all (once dry that is). Basically just a way to protect the wood in my mind...and it usually will add up to five grams to a very dry handle.

 

[Mucho Bocho]

Thanks Jim, Maybe I'll give mine an overnight dunk see if I like them any better.

 

[Pensacola Tiger]

When I started my journey I was very much concerned with the condition of the ho wood handles of my knives that had them. I oiled them, I waxed them, soaked them in mineral oil - all the techniques that have been mentioned in other posts. Over time, I came to appreciate that the handles needed no attention, and that untreated ho wood gave the best grip.

 

[Asteger]

I came to appreciate that the handles needed no attention, and that untreated ho wood gave the best grip.

Very funny, isn't it. Lots of fuss (and expensive upgrades) for naught.

 

[Mucho Bocho]

When I started my journey I was very much concerned with the condition of the ho wood handles of my knives that had them. I oiled them, I waxed them, soaked them in mineral oil - all the techniques that have been mentioned in other posts. Over time, I came to appreciate that the handles needed no attention, and that untreated ho wood gave the best grip.

That's what I thought Too Rick. Thanks for affirming.

 

[spoiledbroth]

personally my primary concern is that the handles do not discolor, take on odours or worst of all become colonized by pathogenic bacteria. I have not noticed much of a difference between unwaxed and waxed hou wood in terms of grip.

Oh, I forgot to note I was talking mostly about the stock hou/buffalo horn, but I'd think there's benefit with any unstabilized wood.

I understand that at home or "in a perfect world" at work you've got time to sanitize everything on your own schedule, however from time to time situations arise where a knife handle is going to be subjected to unsanitary conditions for at least an hour or two. It's those situations where I'd prefer to have some kind of barrier to keep the wood from taking on colours or smells at the very least (I recognize the bacteria thing is probably unlikely and from what I read here most harmful bacteria dies as wood dries out - cutting board in the article but I figure the same applies to unstabilized wood handles)

 

[jacko9]

As a long time woodworker I just would like to suggest that wax offers almost nothing in terms of moisture protection. Most furniture makers only use it as a top coat to add shine to their product.

On my knives I only use pure oil or pure resin varnish. For oil I would use tung oil or teak oil and let it cure for 24 hours and then apply another coat. Soaking your dense oily wood handles in oil/wax solutions doesn't penetrate beyond the surface pores and even with woods like cherry, walnut, chestnut the oil penetration is very slight. You would be better off removing any wax and applying multiple thin coats of pure tung oil left to fully dry at least 24 hours.

Jack

 

[spoiledbroth]

hmm interesting jacko... thanks for the tip I will have to look into getting some tung oil and giving it a try.

 

[aboynamedsuita]

I guess custom handles made with stabilized woods and treated with tung oil shouldn't need too much other than a quick touch up from time to time? I can't see the oil soaking in otherwise.

As for the wax/oil thing, I've rubbed in board butter and let it sit overnight and repeat when I've seen look like it needs it. Also have a product called Clapmans salad bowl finish from Lee Valley which is mostly beeswax with some mineral oil that I have used after the oil or board butter.

On a related note… I still have that Toyama handle if you want it spoiledbroth. It was the untreated hō and had a mothball smell when wet (perhaps it was one of the antibacterial treated handles?). I put a bit of board butter on it and it darkened it up, still looks thirsty but I'll leave that up to you to decide how to proceed with.

 

[jacko9]

I just viewed a few videos on stabilizing woods for knife handles and if the wood has an open pore structure you can indeed get resins into that open structure and seal the wood with resins. The resins on the outside surface will wear with use and I would suggest that you use a wipe on resin like General Finishes Arm-R-Seal to get back to the original protective layer (used per directions). Woods that have not been resin saturated and/or coated can be treated with pure tung oil in several layers with the appropriate cure time between layers. Wood handles that have never been waxed or had the wax removed (difficult) can be treated with Arm-R-Seal for a very durable finish. Wax only inhibits the penetration of pure oils or resins so while the application of an oil/wax mixture will make your handle look new at first it won't give you a lot of long term protection.

 

[Asteger]

... wax offers almost nothing in terms of moisture protection. ... use it as a top coat to add shine to their product.

On my knives I only use pure oil or pure resin varnish. For oil I would use tung oil or teak oil and let it cure for 24 hours and then apply another coat. Soaking your dense oily wood handles in oil/wax solutions doesn't penetrate beyond the surface pores and even with woods like cherry, walnut, chestnut the oil penetration is very slight. You would be better off removing any wax and applying multiple thin coats of pure tung oil left to fully dry at least 24 hours.

Interesting as it flies in the face of the conventional wisdom here about using wax as part of 'board butter' on handles as well as boards. So, then wax just makes things look shiny and doesn't have any other effect? And what about mineral oil and why would 'pure oil' (not sure what exactly this is) or resin varnish and tung and teak oil work better?

I remember asking in Japan about how people protect their wooden boards and (I'm still not sure what they do if anything, but) the idea of using mineral oil was completely alien to them

On a related note… Toyama handle ... untreated hō and had a mothball smell when wet (perhaps it was one of the antibacterial treated handles?) I put a bit of board butter on it and it darkened it up, still looks thirsty

The second time I've noticed some comments on the Toyama handle smell. Watanbe's handles come from the same maker, too.

For what it's worth I've got 3 Watanabe and 2 Toyama, and no stinky handle syndrome. I'd also say that on my Toyama gyuto the handle has a really thirsty rough-grained feel, but I think this is pretty ideal if you want a good grip on your knife and so I wouldn't change it.

 

[jacko9]

Asteger - Here is a link to of a video given the wood finish 101 explanation.

[video=youtube;pCzblO0f8P8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCzblO0f8P8[/video]

If you want more detailed information I can point you to other finishing resources.

Jack

 

[Asteger]

Asteger - Here is a link to of a video given the wood finish 101 explanation.

Cool. Thanks, Jack. I'll have a look

 

[spoiledbroth]

I'm hesitant with those kind of sealing products because general finishes makes other products for salad bowls, and then they recommend using their butchers block oil on heavily used boards and blocks...

 

[jacko9]

Go to Marc Spagnolo's web site for additional information he has published a ton of free videos - the Wood Whisperer. I also have several other references on finishing wood from professional furniture finishers if you want more information.

Jack

 

[Mucho Bocho]

I'm going to need a tong oil bath after watching that video. Talk about a dry handle...

 

[MAS4T0]

Interesting as it flies in the face of the conventional wisdom here about using wax as part of 'board butter' on handles as well as boards. So, then wax just makes things look shiny and doesn't have any other effect? And what about mineral oil and why would 'pure oil' (not sure what exactly this is) or resin varnish and tung and teak oil work better?

I always felt that board butter is beneficial as it helps to prevent the mineral oil from being drawn out during washing.
I would rather stick to mineral oil than mixing varnish and thinners and impregnating the board with that.

 

[jacko9]

I always felt that board butter is beneficial as it helps to prevent the mineral oil from being drawn out during washing.
I would rather stick to mineral oil than mixing varnish and thinners and impregnating the board with that, the issue is just that it needs topping up from time to time.

Keep in mind that I'm only recommending varnish for knife handles not for cutting boards. A film finish is not recommended for an application like a cutting board.

Jack

 

[MAS4T0]

Keep in mind that I'm only recommending varnish for knife handles not for cutting boards. A film finish is not recommended for an application like a cutting board.

Jack

Hi Jack,

Thank you for clarifying.
I was actually referencing the video where he mentioned thinning a varnish so that it can impregnate deeply into end-grain and cure inside.

How durable is a varnish finish for the sake of washing?
I always figured that it was more time efficient to have a quickly applied oil or wax surface and refinish frequently rather than spend the time on a varnish finish.

I have a number of bokken (wooden training swords) which I have finished with tung oil, but even years after applying the finish I find them slightly nauseous when in an enclosed space. I've never dared to use this finish on knife handles as I don't think I could handle the smell.
Is tung oil always like this or is more likely that I did something wrong when applying the finish?

 

[jacko9]

Hi Jack,

Thank you for clarifying.
I was actually referencing the video where he mentioned thinning a varnish so that it can impregnate deeply into end-grain and cure inside.

How durable is a varnish finish for the sake of washing?
I always figured that it was more time efficient to have a quickly applied oil or wax surface and refinish frequently rather than spend the time on a varnish finish.

I have a number of bokken (wooden training swords) which I have finished with tung oil, but even years after applying the finish I find them slightly nauseous when in an enclosed space. I've never dared to use this finish on knife handles as I don't think I could handle the smell.
Is tung oil always like this or is more likely that I did something wrong when applying the finish?

The question of varnish first - there are several products that are being marketed as varnish like Wipe-On Poly, etc. (these products are oils with a little varnish in them and they don't cure like a pure varnish) The product I mentioned is a urethane resin in solvents that cures fully and is very durable. I have used this product on table tops that see family use daily and has lasted for years. I have also used it on Brazilian Rosewood Dining Room tables where it has also been extremely durable for several years now (and Rosewood is very difficult to finish). A fully cured varnish resin will leave a coating of less than 0.05mm so several coats of finish will give you a very durable finish on your knifer handle. The General Finishes Arm-R-Seal does not need to be thinned since it's formulated as a wiping varnish and the solvents will completely evaporate away. I wouldn't leave it sitting in the sink for hours at a time but, spilled wine left overnight wipes right off with a damp cloth.

Stores market a lot of products called Tung Oil Finish or something like that and they may only have a low concentration of tung oil in them and most won't cure fully. !00% pure tung oil will fully cure and you won't smell any thing coming off whatever you finish. Tung oil does age in then container after opening and starts to cure after several months but even then it just starts to go solid so it has to be used within a year or so after opening the container.

If you want a finish for your sword handles that will give you some protection but not water proof - use shellac mixed from non-waxed shellac flakes. I always use this for the inside of cabinets and drawers where you don't want someone opening it up and getting a whiff of chemical smell. You can use acetone to clean the old finish off and use alcohol to dissolve the shellac flakes.